It is you that needs to get yourself out of this horrible hole YOU have got yourself into, and that is not BS.

YOU have spent far too much on computer parts over the last few years, and YOU are scared to actually sit down and face the facts that YOU have continuously overspent on computers (among other things) for the last few YEARS.

Yes, you do live on a very restricted income, but that is NO excuse. Indeed it is a very good reason to be very careful on only spending on what you need, not what you want. There are other regular contributors to these boards that are living on similar incomes to yourself, and yet we don't see them saying they "must buy this bit, or that bit", they live within their means, which you do not.
What's happened that that PS (or whatever it was) you "won" the other year? That cost a fair bit in soda & chips - even if you didn't have to spend any "real" cash on it, you spent a fair bit on those.

Take this opportunity to stop and think ahead. The next few weeks, if not months, are going to be financially painful for you. Sit down and work out your priorities, starting with what you need to live on (land rent, food, taxes, loan & card repayments). From what you've said in recent months you've become a sort of "taxi" service for some folks that live near you - are there any that might now provide you with a ride into town to do your shopping? That might save you a few bucks. You are going to have to park your dreams about buying more computer stuff for a bit - you just haven't got the money, but you have one working computer, and a fair pile of bits, so can't you some of those bits together into one or more working computers without spending anything.(it might not be the computer you want, but at least it will be a computer).

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

And that will happen, this just requires time, of which I have lots of.

No I have not. If you think that is the only thing My debt was used for, then you really don't know anything, if I had I'd know it better than anyone here.

Painful?

No it won't, My income will still be there, I won't be using the cards soon, I'm already not using them for the most part, in a few months even that will end and only cause I will be able to end using them.

Like I said any bits would come from only one source as the balance allows or at least I implied that before.

I do have friends who I have formed relationships with, I recently got a ride, I don't want to do that very much.

I have made in roads on the smallest of what I owe and will be able to broaden that in either June or August, the date is out of My hands and has nothing to do with Me.

I will get the car working again, so far what is about to be bought is one that has a bit more mileage than what is in My own car, but it's not much more and with the parts from My old block it will do just fine, new oil and a filter will be needed, a relocation of the oil filter can be done, though not at this moment, like to somewhere away from the serpentine belt, yes this would add 2 hoses and the parts that come with the kit. The hoses are not included of course.

So far that work might be about $808.00 in work, which is part labor and the cost of the engine, delivery is free, it'll take a few months but it won't be gaining interest and I have proven I can do that already.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

OK, so you have a plan, which I hope works.
One thing you should consider when putting a take-out engine with a cambelt into a car is put a new cambelt and tensioner set on before you put it in, its easier to do on the bench than in the car, and the last thing you want is to have an old belt break just outside the warranty period (why do things often fail soon after the warranty runs out?).
Not financially painful? I know you will still have your money coming in, but you are being faced with an additional $xxx to find and pay-off over a few months, and that's going to impact on what you can spend on other things.

I'm really glad you've got someone who will ferry you around as I guess a taxi from your place into town would be $stupid, and I doubt there's a community shuttle bus service like the we used when I lived in Tustin all those years back.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Well there was dial a ride out here, but I have not seen that out here in at least a year, if I had a pass I could do some on it but a 4 bag which used to be 6 kind of puts a crimp in that, that still means I can't go see My relatives anymore, not unless someone drives 81 or 100 miles to pick Me up and then back, that's a lot of driving, I can drive half that, so far the shop has been well busy and even though it's repairable and a new belt and such is something that should be done, I think the cost $250.80 plus the recommended $90 an hour over 10 hours, even though I was told there is a guy there who could do the work in half the time, it does need the following:

4 new spark plugs(motorcraft platinum works and gets 37mpg),
5w30 Royal Purple motor oil for a high mileage engine this is required,
oil filter,
timing belt,
valve cover gasket,
main seal,
oil pan gasket,
idler pulley for timing belt,
thermostat and gasket,
new serpentine belt and hoses,
flush radiator and refill with fresh coolant,
and flush the oil cooler.

These are what that engine needs, I might call about a title loan, but that may be a dead end and so might any repairs.
I signed up at a Charity website, I have 1 point, beyond that I have no idea what is required there.
I also don't think My relatives could help with repairs, My older niece is supporting Her mom and younger sister on $80K a year and a BA in english.
My nephew could take that used engine and such and get it to work, but the 2.0L doesn't come with timing marks built in, and He's busy driving a semi these days, so that's probably out.
In short I'm out of luck with a dead car, which may as well be junk now, even if I didn't have any debt it would be only possible to buy a vehicle that gets 16-20mpg, in 2 or 3 months.
There was an article about a pilot program from 2015 to get low income people into EV's, like hybrids and Battery Equipped Vehicles, plus provide Level2 charging equipment at home, but that was 4 years ago, I emailed CARB about that, maybe I'll hear back about it, though in the pilot program, the High Desert was not part of this, only San Joaquin, Los Angeles, San Bernardino valley and I think Riverside County was in on this. The amount listed was $12,000.00 for help in getting either a hybrid or BEV, though some $9,500 I could use, the rest is a useless tax credit to Me, a used Toyota Prius can be more than that, like about $2,223.00 more currently, My relatives have one.
There is an organization that is mentioned by the VVTA for Seniors and Disabled People, I'm going to call them, as the transportation would be free, but I don't know if they come out here or not, or even if they are still around. VVTA is the Victor Valley Transit Authority.
Yeah I do have friends nearby, I'd need to get a seat belt extender for a Honda Odyssey minivan asap since the seat belt does not fit Me since the owner does not have one, I found a 9" one, but I'd need the year.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

And that will happen, this just requires time, of which I have lots of.

Yes, for years you have been telling us all this, but time always runs out you for 1 reason or another (reread all your posts again over the years as they keep following the same predetermined course over and over again).

No I have not. If you think that is the only thing My debt was used for, then you really don't know anything, if I had I'd know it better than anyone here.

Dept should only be incurred in emergencies and kept as small as possible, but you waste it on stuff that you don't really need (or can comfortably afford).

Painful?

Well read all your posts back through all the years again and you'll see that it must be.

No it won't, My income will still be there, I won't be using the cards soon, I'm already not using them for the most part, in a few months even that will end and only cause I will be able to end using them.

Another statement that you have been repeating constantly for years on end from you Vic, but you keep winding up behind the 8 ball.

Like I said any bits would come from only one source as the balance allows or at least I implied that before.

And which bits are we talking about here?

I do have friends who I have formed relationships with, I recently got a ride, I don't want to do that very much.

I'll just take your word for that here ATM.

I have made in roads on the smallest of what I owe and will be able to broaden that in either June or August, the date is out of My hands and has nothing to do with Me.

Nothing ever does does it?

I will get the car working again, so far what is about to be bought is one that has a bit more mileage than what is in My own car, but it's not much more and with the parts from My old block it will do just fine, new oil and a filter will be needed, a relocation of the oil filter can be done, though not at this moment, like to somewhere away from the serpentine belt, yes this would add 2 hoses and the parts that come with the kit. The hoses are not included of course.

We'll wait and see about that.

So far that work might be about $808.00 in work, which is part labor and the cost of the engine, delivery is free, it'll take a few months but it won't be gaining interest and I have proven I can do that already.

Again we'll wait and see as it wouldn't be the first time that something has cost you more much than expected.

I'm sorry Vic, but all this crap goes on once or twice a year with you (you could actually say that it's a habit with you to keep repeating this endless cycle).

Cheers.

Ouch - that's a lot more to do the job than I feared :-(

So, looking at the prices you've got ($250 for the engine and $900 to install it) that's $1150, exuding the shopping list, which I would guess at being $300, which makes $1450 - and what's a zx2 worth these days? Again, a guess $1500 for a one in fair condition? If that's the case then I would go for that '68 film title and scrap it, you should get a few dollars back, and as you say are going for $2k upwards - it could well be worth biting the bullet and going for that rather than a gas guzzler (much though I think in your heart that's what you really want - in much the same way as I want a '65 Mustang.....)

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Ouch - that's a lot more to do the job than I feared :-(

So, looking at the prices you've got ($250 for the engine and $900 to install it) that's $1150, exuding the shopping list, which I would guess at being $300, which makes $1450 - and what's a zx2 worth these days? Again, a guess $1500 for a one in fair condition? If that's the case then I would go for that '68 film title and scrap it, you should get a few dollars back, and as you say are going for $2k upwards - it could well be worth biting the bullet and going for that rather than a gas guzzler (much though I think in your heart that's what you really want - in much the same way as I want a '65 Mustang.....)

I wasn't sure, so I looked it up, Bing says a lot, weird. It's still less than a replacement or even what I paid for it, grain of salt time, no I don't believe that.

Edmunds says $1,058.00, before it was $1,246.00, still the repair cost would be less than trying to replace it, $500 for a car that gets 16-20mpg just doesn't work too well for Me, gas costs for Me would double. And I have no idea what the insurance would cost. If it were a mustang I might be close on the insurance, otherwise I have no idea.

I'm not in the right area for that $2K and upwards, since the pilot program is not statewide.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Sorry Vic, your sums just don't add up.
Cost of engine = $250
Cost of installing (based on the only quote you've published) = $900
Excluding your list of required parts, which I've guessed at $300 - and I would accept that is a pure guess, based on UK prices for comparable items at $1=£1

That's $1450, about $400 more than the "bottom" price on Edmunds.

I don't want to see you get caught in some horrid trap due to you missing something that neds to be done - has that guy that says he can do the complete engine swap in half the time the garage has quoted given you a quote or even a realistic estimate? (It would be really great if he did and it was about $450 including the shopping list of parts).
(Ten hours sounds a bit high. Five hours sounds way to light for anything other than a straight swap, and given there are probably any number of hoses, gaskets etc that will have to be changed, I'd consider five hours to be "wildly optimistic".)

Chris - There is a third option, Vic and the garage come to some sort of arrangement so he pays the bill off at $xxx per month - a number of places out in the sticks will come to this sort of arrangement with "valued customers". I think that's how he sorted the $400 for the alternator change he had done recently, but that can be a risky way to go and would need careful negotiation on both sides.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Sorry Vic, your sums just don't add up.
Cost of engine = $250
Cost of installing (based on the only quote you've published) = $900
Excluding your list of required parts, which I've guessed at $300 - and I would accept that is a pure guess, based on UK prices for comparable items at $1=£1

That's $1450, about $400 more than the "bottom" price on Edmunds.

I don't want to see you get caught in some horrid trap due to you missing something that needs to be done - has that guy that says he can do the complete engine swap in half the time the garage has quoted given you a quote or even a realistic estimate? (It would be really great if he did and it was about $450 including the shopping list of parts).
(Ten hours sounds a bit high. Five hours sounds way too light for anything other than a straight swap, and given there are probably any number of hoses, gaskets etc that will have to be changed, I'd consider five hours to be "wildly optimistic".)

Chris - There is a third option, Vic and the garage come to some sort of arrangement so he pays the bill off at $xxx per month - a number of places out in the sticks will come to this sort of arrangement with "valued customers". I think that's how he sorted the $400 for the alternator change he had done recently, but that can be a risky way to go and would need careful negotiation on both sides.

Yeah to get an exact amount as if I were going to buy the parts Myself, I'd need to go to O'Reilly auto parts, it could be $300, one thing I'd not buy new is the air filter, I still have a good K&N which was recently recharged.

On the $400.77 that was $200.77 and then 2 payments of $100 each, I'd like to repeat that, but of course there is the guy who might be named Rich getting paid, seems to be a sticking point.

His boss Jennifer said Rich could do the job in about half the time, She didn't say much more as She's short handed and in a hurry a lot, beyond the fact that Kyle did not want to work on the car since it would take too much time in His mind, so much for all the business I've done there over the years.

Kyle said "they were not equipped to do the work", which is not true according to Jennifer.

So nothing has been accomplished so far.

The engine from ebay would have to be delivered to a business address according to the seller, which is ok with Me since there is nowhere here at My home to store such a heavy item and the floors here are not that strong.

The 3rd option is what I'd hoped to do, but it may not be an option.

Cost of a replacement vehicle? Possibly $7,000.00 or $500 if I wanted to pay lots for fuel every month, so far neither of those is an option and Carmax is a long ways from here.

Public transit is either limited or non existent here, I will have to make a few calls to find out more, still I don't see Me going to the relatives anymore since I think they're too far away for existing transit, sure there is a Barstow to San Bernardino bus route, but from there where next and it runs only a few times a day, miss it by 1 minute and the idea is wait nearly 24 hours for the next bus.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

On the $400.77 that was $200.77 and then 2 payments of $100 each, I'd like to repeat that, but of course there is the guy who might be named Rich getting paid, seems to be a sticking point.

Well a few days ago you posted that it cost ~$400 for the alternator replacement - I think you are being "generous with the truth Vic.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

What is actually wrong with the Engine?

I haven't looked it up, but I can't Image Ford designing an external timing belt engine that would result in valve damage due to a broken belt.
That would be too ... Microsoft like.

It can't be from lack of oil pressure from a punctured filter since the engine can't run without a timing belt which would be the cause of it.

Are you sure the garage isn't trying to screw you???

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Cost of a replacement vehicle? Possibly $7,000.00 or $500 if I wanted to pay lots for fuel every month, so far neither of those is an option and Carmax is a long ways from here.

No argument on the higher price, but a very quick look at Cargursus turned up three Prius for less than $3k (one of which is described as being ~$1100 over market price), and several zx2 at around $1.5k, so you are exaggerating again aren't you. I could no doubt have turned up a good few more models in that sort of price range, but were the first two models I looked at. So there are cars out there at much less than $7k.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

On the $400.77 that was $200.77 and then 2 payments of $100 each, I'd like to repeat that, but of course there is the guy who might be named Rich getting paid, seems to be a sticking point.

Well a few days ago you posted that it cost ~$400 for the alternator replacement - I think you are being "generous with the truth Vic.

No I just didn't like to type that much sometimes and I have concentration problems, it's how I was such a good shot in archery with no practice(red zone) and with a rifle, I own neither, nor would I ever want to.

I take some serious pain meds since I'm in constant pain.

Local buses are out, I'm on the wrong side of the fwy according to the VVTA.

Sure if I need to go to the Doctor, I could get transportation. wow...

There is VVCSC, they give free rides to Seniors and Disabled People, but I'm not in "their" area.

Then there is ADA rides, cost is about $7 per trip, no passes, but it is door to door service.

But then I live in the Wilderness where everyone is on their own, a car here is essential, I may have to write something and I don't like to.

You can say what you want, I'm too depressed to care, I have more than a few blocked here, Chris S is blocked here and on FB, though it's not like on Facebook where if one is blocked one can't even see someone elses posts at all, here you know they've posted, I'm not interested in reading them or raising My anxiety any.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

[url]Cost of a replacement vehicle? Possibly $7,000.00 or $500 if I wanted to pay lots for fuel every month, so far neither of those is an option and Carmax is a long ways from here.[/url]
No argument on the higher price, but a very quick look at Cargursus turned up three Prius for less than $3k (one of which is described as being ~$1100 over market price), and several zx2 at around $1.5k, so you are exaggerating again aren't you. I could no doubt have turned up a good few more models in that sort of price range, but were the first two models I looked at. So there are cars out there at much less than $7k.

No, you just used different search options there than I did. I look on Carmax a lot, I've also looked on autotrader.

No one is going to get identical searches unless they enter everything exactly the same.

I did find a $500 vehicle on Carmax, 16-20mpg, may as well be a sherman tank.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Well - a Sherman barely manages 1mpg on a good day (ouch - that would be 30 gallons just to my daily commute, at £1.25 per litre - still, I wouldn't have to worry about the car in front in the inevitable first and last 3 mile tailbacks)

Exactly, by only doing one search one can all too easily be looking in the wrong place and be totally mislead into thinking one is getting a bargain, or facing a monstrous bill.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

I take some serious pain meds since I'm in constant pain.

and

You can say what you want, I'm too depressed to care

Did you know that one of the side effects of many "serious" pain killers and the like are depression and anxiety?

So think carefully about what painkillers you are using, and how long you have been using them for.
For a quite few years I've been in fairly continuous renal pain, along with a collection of damaged joints, so I know a lot about pain management - most of it gained from painful experience. One thing I have found is that using a rotation of painkillers (a couple of months on one family, then another couple of months on the next one, then onto a third or back the first) is far more effective than sticking to just one month after month, year after year - your body does get accustomed to each family, and so the effectiveness reduces, and the side effects get more noticeable and by swapping that familiarization never gets a chance to set in.
Also, you previously stated that you are using a near maximum dose of the slow-release version of Tylenol - slow release pain killers are great once you have the pain under control, it is often far better to hit the pain hard first thing in the morning, then (much) later in the day switch to the slow release version of the same drug.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

I take some serious pain meds since I'm in constant pain.

and

You can say what you want, I'm too depressed to care

Did you know that one of the side effects of many "serious" pain killers and the like are depression and anxiety?

So think carefully about what painkillers you are using, and how long you have been using them for.
For a quite few years I've been in fairly continuous renal pain, along with a collection of damaged joints, so I know a lot about pain management - most of it gained from painful experience. One thing I have found is that using a rotation of painkillers (a couple of months on one family, then another couple of months on the next one, then onto a third or back the first) is far more effective than sticking to just one month after month, year after year - your body does get accustomed to each family, and so the effectiveness reduces, and the side effects get more noticeable and by swapping that familiarization never gets a chance to set in.
Also, you previously stated that you are using a near maximum dose of the slow-release version of Tylenol - slow release pain killers are great once you have the pain under control, it is often far better to hit the pain hard first thing in the morning, then (much) later in the day switch to the slow release version of the same drug.

I have 3 dislocated joints(hips and right shoulder), stiff back, osteoarthritis, tortured knee and ankle joints.

One Naproxen 500mg pill twice a day is by prescription, the joints have squeaked since I was at least 40, in July I'll be 59.

8hr tylenol 650mg taken 2 at a time once every 8hrs allows Me to stand and walk for a limited period and is time released.

I've been depressed for a lot longer than when I was 40, so the pills and that don't have much of a connection, being depressed reaches way back, closer to 40yrs back.

I also have a stent in Me, 3 titanium screws, 2 hernia's, at least I don't have any pins or stainless steel in Me, shudder.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Most things in life boil down to choices. 1st off, is it:
Want? or
Need?

Close to the end of Nov last, my networked laser printer finally gave up the ghost. Can't complain, it lasted just over 10 years of constant use. I also have a HP Inkjet & use high yield cartridges. With using 2 black & 1 tri-colour per year, it comes to a few pence shy of £99. The toner for the laser normally cost £32 for 2000 pages whereas the HP totalled 960/1000 depending on ink coverage per page. (Normally using both printers printed docs & receipts also used the HP to scan}

Now I did miss that laser. :-) However, had to weigh the cost of replacing it, taking into account the cost of toner as well as the cost of Inkjet cartridges. Looked around for a decent one & found several for a very decent price but all were USB only not RJ45. Did find one so checked for reviews. Liked it so bought one. Based on past usage, normally go through 2-2,500 pages a year. The drum unit only caters for 12,000 pages & it only had a starter cartridge for 700 pages.
So for a total of £234.41 (cocky enough to "know" that the Lotto will pay for it or at least a fair %) I now have enough toner for 3,700 pages & with it being a multi function printer with scan, copy, print, fax with a 50 sheet ADF, and Wi-Fi capable if required & 2 drum units for 24,000 pages as well as a sturdy printer table which can hold 5 reams of paper on the bottom shelf.

We are all human & make mistakes.
The problem is:
If the same mistake is often repeated, then it is not a mistake but a choice.

The shop called, they said if I can get the engine for $250.80, they'll do the work for $400.00, any needed parts can be taken from the old motor as they are all still good She said, so $650.80 total, much better than $1,450.00 or whatever, that's $799.20 less. I don't know where the oil drained from, so if it's an oil filter there is also a new one on hand I'd think.

I'd talked to My sister in law who is going to talk to My older niece, no guarantees My sister in law said, still this is better than earlier, Jennifer at the shop said if She had the money She'd just do it and have Me make payments.

I don't know what type of motor oil the shop would be using, asap I may be getting an oil change to Royal Purple 5w30 since it works so well with high mileage engines, but I'm getting ahead of what might happen.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

The shop called, they said if I can get the engine for $250.80, they'll do the work for $400.00, any needed parts can be taken from the old motor as they are all still good She said, so $650.80 total, much better than $1,450.00 or whatever, that's $799.20 less. I don't know where the oil drained from, so if it's an oil filter there is also a new one on hand I'd think.

I'd talked to My sister in law who is going to talk to My older niece, no guarantees My sister in law said, still this is better than earlier, Jennifer at the shop said if She had the money She'd just do it and have Me make payments.

I don't know what type of motor oil the shop would be using, asap I may be getting an oil change to Royal Purple 5w30 since it works so well with high mileage engines, but I'm getting ahead of what might happen.

One thing I've learned about NEW/Rebuilt Motors and Synthetic Oils: Break in the Engine with REGULAR oil for the first 20K Miles, THEN put back in the Synthetic of your choice.

For just a Used Engine, I'd have the mechanic ALSO inspect the seals and gaskets of the ENTIRE Engine BEFORE putting in Synthetic. This is because if ANY Seals or Gaskets are shown to be leaking AT ALL, the Synthetic Oil WILL GUSH at that point. IF the mechanic finds leaky Seals or Gaskets, get them changed BEFORE putting in Synthetic.

This WILL change the price of doing the engine! (Upwards, of course...) HOWEVER; as you need this done ASAP, IF any Seals or Gaskets are found to be leaking now, HOLD OFF on Synthetic and just go with petroleum oil UNTIL such time as you can afford to replace the leaky Seals and Gaskets, THEN go to Synthetic.

ymmv


TL

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TimeLord04
Have TARDIS, will travel...
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