I got a few goodies, a pair of black cotton jeans, 2 plumbers helpers, a garbage disposal dishwasher connector kit, a bluetooth adapter for the phone to play mp3's over My car stereo, a mini usb 2.0 port(a hub), some more clothes, a pair of gift cards($25ea, both are valid, I checked), $20.00, and some food My sister in law and My younger niece cooked up, plus a pic of Barnum, My sister in laws dog, this was taken at Her house.
The drive there took 1hr45min, there was an accident on the i15 fwy south in the pass that was just being cleared, though the lane still had some debris in it and cars were avoiding that spot, I was in the lane to the right, no damage to My car or tires happened, the trip back took 1hr30mins, and was uneventful, though there is this huge amount of traffic headed for LA from Las Vegas NV.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok I got an email back from the ebay seller of the two Samsung BN94-05038C main boards that I have, He asked Me why or more to the point what lead up to Me buying the boards, so I told him, then He said My boards are all ok, it's an LED strip problem, since I get no light now, and that the boards He shipped to Me might both have had something happen to them.

So asap I'm going to carefully detach the 4 cables here in the kitchen, rather than in My bedroom, since I have more light here, and I can put the TV on a night stand here where I think I can sit down at, and a bit more room, deinstall the BN94-05038C main board, and reinstall the old BN94-04358P main board(since I know the 04358P does work for sure), and then the cables, after that I'll see what happens, and go from there.

I asked shopjimmy about the led strips, and they sent Me a link to a video they made, it seems the panel LTJ550HJ05-C that I have wants to use BN96-16609B led strips, one for the right, and one for the left, they're not cheap either, I located a pair on ebay, $169.00 or best offer, which would probably more likely be $164.00, but then I have not been able to find anyone who repairs the BN96-16609B led strips, $105.36 is not going to cut it this month, and yes any thoughts of replacing the main board are gone, deleted even.

And right now I'll wait to see if anymore BN96-16609B led strips come up for sale.

Strips are specific to the screen rather than the model and must be ordered per the panel number for the screen itself rather than the model information. So the BN96-16609B strips are used in your model but only with the LTJ550HJ05-C screen specifically and this isn't the only one used in your model. Here's a video that will show you what's involved in swapping the strips and how to locate the panel number for your screen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1Nm01UXifI If you can provide the panel number for your screen I'll see if we can provide an appropriate set of replacements for you.

Regards,
Austin Manning
Customer Service

The shopjimmy website is out of stock on these strips, but who knows, not everything is on the web, their BN-16609B is $54.95, that I think is before shipping, but that is a lot better than $169.00 any day.

And I just asked shopjimmy how much the led strips and shipping will be, and told Him that My panel is an "LTJ550HJ05-C", if He can locate any strips that is.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I looked for the BN96-16609B, Samsung has them, but why it's listed as 1(Left) instead of 2(1-Left and 1-Right), I don't know.

The part(s) w/shipping would be $138.97 total from Samsung.

Better than ebay at $169.00, but I want to see if shopjimmy can locate a pair, hopefully for less, and Samsung says 4-6 weeks, and they are special order too.

And I'm having trouble staying awake here, so I'm going to lay down, later.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I found out shipping would be $7-$10, when a pair of LED strips does comes in, I'm on their email list, so $61.95-$64.95 is not too bad.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I'm at long last narrowing down what doesn't work in My Samsung TV, the 2 LED strips, of course they either cost $169.00, or $138.97 or $61.95-$64.95, the last when it's in stock, I'm on an email list. All for a BN96-16609B V.1, there is a V.2, but V.2 is not compatible with My screen.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Will listen for once. Give it up, you do not have the knowledge or the skills to diagnose the problem.

If the LED strips have failed, and if you had the knowledge they could be tested independently, then the reason they have failed is because they have been powered incorrectly because of a fault somewhere else.
Replacing them without diagnosing and repairing the initial fault will only lead to you destroying the replacements.

Look, I was told the boards are Ok, this is what I told the seller:

The LED backlighting went from mostly lit(3/4 of the screen) to not working one day,
after that I changed out the power board for a newer and tested 424A psu board
(to Me at least, I paid $20 to have the current 424A psu board tested by shopjimmy, it passed),
before I changed the power board to the current 424A psu board I had no picture and no sound,
then I replaced the power board, and except for the LED backlighting, the sound and the picture was back,
of course changing the brightness was not attempted, since I could barely see the picture, let alone any menus,
except under certain circumstances, like when I shined an LED 2 D cell flashlight at the screen,
or when the sun came in the window at the right angle.

That is exactly the sequence that happened, if you insist on saying this, then don't say anything in the future.

The LED's on this TV are edge lit only, as such there are only 2 strips, one on the right, and one on the left, everything is keyed, plugging in power to the LED's like you suggest is impossible, but then you have never worked on an LCD/LED TV like this one, or you'd know that...

The mainboard controls how bright the LED's can be, I have tried two other failed main boards, only My original main board makes the TV work, even then the backlighting is out, the psu board gets instructions from the main board, the psu board has only 2 cables, one attaches to the main board(left green), one to the LED's(top), now tell Me something I don't know...

The main board has 4 cables, one goes to the psu board(right in tan), one goes to the T-con board(bottom center), one goes to the IR board(left bottom), and one goes to the 2 speakers(right and left bottom).

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Pfft...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I have 2 BN96-16609B led light strips, which means I have an "LTJ550HJ05-C" LCD panel, which is what a sticker on My TV says, one below that is the main board...

http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-bn96-16609b-right-left-led-light-strip-bars.htm

Important Message: PLEASE make sure the LED panel in your TV matches the information in this listing before ordering. DO NOT simply order by model number, as this may result in receiving LED strips that are incompatible with your TV. Includes both the left & right LED Light Strip Bars. Works in panel Samsung LTJ550HJ05-C

A close up of the sticker below the main board... Sticker is upside down...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I'm posting some of the shopjimmy email that I received here, note: I'm skipping parts of the email that contain My address...

Strips are specific to the screen rather than the model and must be ordered per the panel number for the screen itself rather than the model information. So the BN96-16609B strips are used in your model but only with the LTJ550HJ05-C screen specifically and this isn't the only one used in your model. Here's a video that will show you what's involved in swapping the strips and how to locate the panel number for your screen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1Nm01UXifI If you can provide the panel number for your screen I'll see if we can provide an appropriate set of replacements for you.

Regards,
Austin Manning
Customer Service
----
My panel is the LTJ550HJ05-C like listed on your website. How much would
the led strips and shipping cost?
-----
Ah perfect, then the strip you've referenced would be correct. I'd expect shipping to be $7-10 for a ground option through FedEx (3-5 business days). However, we’re out of stock on that part currently. Due to how we source and harvest our TV parts (from new TVs that are cosmetically damaged), we're unable to give you an accurate in-stock lead time. The good news is that we're constantly adding new TV parts to our inventory, so please don't hesitate to check back often.

In the meantime, I would definitely recommend going to the part's product page here; http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-bn96-16609b-right-left-led-light-strip-bars.htm and clicking the big, green "Email me when..." button (you may need to create an account or log-in). We'll then email you as soon as we get that part back in-stock!

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

So I'm at fault, BS, read this...

The Samsung TV is from 2011, so please don't post any "fix the original fault" crap again, since that is what it is, nothing personal...

Even though My TV is not a covered model, Samsung did use cheap parts, that's a fact.

http://www.dailytech.com/Samsung+to+Pay+Millions+to+Settle+Lawsuits+Over+Mass+LCD+TV+Failures/article24065.htm

I. Persistent Failures Strike Numerous Samsung TV Buyers

But even aside from the balance sheet, Samsung has serious issues to contend with, despite its sales success. The company has just announced details of a class action settlement with consumers over its use of less-expensive failure-prone capacitors.

The failures were sweeping. DailyTech first covered this issue in an early 2011 piece, after both hearing numerous first hand accounts of failures at CES 2011 and reading yet more accounts of failures on Amazon.com, Inc.'s (AMZN) user reviews section. While anecdotal, these stories painted a disturbing picture.

"Jerry Nichols" writes:

This is my second Samsung purchased from Amazon! The first broke down after six months use and it took the Samsung repairman six weeks to show up to replace one board (less than 15 minutes) and it now works fine.

This time I set the new 3D set up on December 19th and it had a black screen on December 20th. The repairman showed up on December 22. He replaced two boards to no avail. He has now ordered a new front panel, basically a new television to be assembled in my home. It will be sometime after Christmas before the new front panel shows up. In my opinion a new set should have been provided to compensate for the four hours use that we got, and what seems to be an extreme repair in the works!

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

My 1999 TV Went Black in '06.

I Replaced a failed Capacitor fO 45 CENTs and Workin' Ever Since.

'I'. Meaning. 'I' removed dA Back of TV. 'I' saw fried Cap. 'I' removed Cap. 'I' Bought, the Replaced Cap. 'I' Installed New Cap. 'I' Turned On Now Working TV.

Man O Live.

No 'Jimmy' or ad Nauseam Posts of Yap Involved.

Failed. Fix. DONE.

dA Simplicity of Yap

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May we All have a METAMORPHOSIS. REASON. GOoD JUDGEMENT and LOVE and ORDER!!!!!

I love reading the saga of the TV. In my neck of the woods, Its called the random replacement of parts. Its like roulette, You might get lucky and get the right part soon before you could have just bought a new TV.
Keep the saga going though, Very entertaining.

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[/quote]

Old James

May you live in interesting times...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Well you certainly make your times interesting.
You buy a TV that either arrives with or rapidly develops a fault with its backlights. This fault gets worse and you decide it is a PSU fault without doing any proper diagnostics. This doesn't cure the problem with the baclights so you think it is the main board at fault. So you buy a main board from a different model TV and find that doesn't work, indeed its worse because now the display doesn't come on at all. You can't see the (physical) difference between the 'correct' and 'incorrect' main boards. Somewhere along the line you decide the fault is the IR cable (or did that actually get broken - I can't recall). You now decide it must be an issue with the baclights, and we know the saga started with one of them being faulty.
So where from here? A new pair of backlights and hope that nothing else has been damaged by your activities. And why do Samsung only have one in stock not two - the TV being a few years old and thus in cosumer electronics terms several generations behind the times they won't be producing replacement modules in large batches only in small batches at premium costs. And will Shopjimmy get any in from their supply chain? That could be a long wait given the exact model you've got is several years old and they source their parts from "cosmetically defective" new TVs.

Then of course you have a working 55 inch TV, but it is not a Samsung and does work so is of no use to you.....

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

You buy a TV that either arrives with or rapidly develops a fault with its backlights.

Rapidly?
The psu was failing, as well as the LEDs, Samsung put out cheap parts as I later found out, this I had no idea of when I bought the tv.
I replaced the psu board cause the TV would not turn on, how is that not a good idea?

This fault gets worse and you decide it is a PSU fault without doing any proper diagnostics.

What diagnostics would you in your infinite wisdom suggest?? Mind you I don't have any diagnostic tools...

This doesn't cure the problem with the backlights so you think it is the main board at fault.

The mainboard controls the LED backlights, so why not?

So you buy a main board from a different model TV and find that doesn't work, indeed its worse because now the display doesn't come on at all.

The seller said that was His fault, so don't blame Me. But of course you just did.

You can't see the (physical) difference between the 'correct' and 'incorrect' main boards.

From what I've been told it's a firmware change, otherwise they are identical.

Somewhere along the line you decide the fault is the IR cable (or did that actually get broken - I can't recall).

The cable needed to be replaced, the original was damaged.

You now decide it must be an issue with the backlights, and we know the saga started with one of them being faulty.

As I said both the psu and backlights were bad, I replaced the bad psu with tested good psu, and the LED's failed.

So where from here?

Nothing for the moment. I can wait, what's it to you?

A new pair of backlights and hope that nothing else has been damaged by your activities.

I did not damage anything.

And why do Samsung only have one in stock not two - the TV being a few years old and thus in consumer electronics terms several generations behind the times they won't be producing replacement modules in large batches only in small batches at premium costs.

Why don't you ask Samsung...

And will Shopjimmy get any in from their supply chain?

If and when they do, I'll know that.

That could be a long wait given the exact model you've got is several years old and they source their parts from "cosmetically defective" new TVs.

So what?

Then of course you have a working 55 inch TV, but it is not a Samsung and does work so is of no use to you.....

This statement contradicts itself, 1st I have a working TV, then it's not working...

Once I did that I got picture and sound back, I then did a flashlight test, that showed a picture, and is a standard test, so just quit. Ok?

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

The psu board that is currently in the TV, was sold to Me as bad, I sent the psu board to shopjimmy to repair it, turns out the seller didn't know the psu board was good, so shopjimmy refunded what money they didn't use, and sent the psu board back to Me, it's not like I have a multimeter handy, and it's not a psu like in a PC, so I have no idea what voltage is correct, and no one here does either for that matter, unless they are a TV repair expert, and that is highly doubtful, so I sent the psu board in to some experts who do.

As to the replacement mainboards, the seller said He sent both and probably damaged them, He reflashed the firmware, so He blames Himself.

The cable did need to be replaced, and the connectors are keyed, and are not standard connectors you'd find in a PC, they're quite possibly proprietary in nature.

Now what started all this?

I tried to turn the TV on as I usually do in the morning, after turning the TV off the night before.

Nothing happened, except a bunch of mooses were on the loose...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Oh and I did repair 2 PC monitors, 1 of which I'm using, the other I use for other purposes, like testing a motherboard, I just had to replace a single board in each, since that is all they have in them, and they both work as good as new, one is energy star rated too, that is the one I'm using, and of course it's the larger of the two.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Also the reason why I don't have the 2nd PC online, is cause the refrigerator is taking up a circuit that I was going to use for the 2nd PC, My window a/c unit is maxing out a circuit, and both are on different circuits.

No second TV? A good few post ago you said you had one but it didn't have all the "fancy bits" you wanted so I suggested a couple of solutions that would solve tha problem and cost far less than the rare parts for the Samsung.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?