OS......: Raspbian Updated, not sure how to find the version.

When you login to the Pi it will usually tell you. You can also start a terminal session (or login remotely) and at the command prompt type "uname -a" without the quotes, which will tells you what kernel version you have running. BOINC also reports it so you can see it on the project websites.

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BOINC blog

OS......: Raspbian Updated, not sure how to find the version.

When you login to the Pi it will usually tell you. You can also start a terminal session (or login remotely) and at the command prompt type "uname -a" without the quotes, which will tells you what kernel version you have running. BOINC also reports it so you can see it on the project websites.

Thanks Mark. Yeah, already know that, well, except for the command you posted. The version is: 4.14.79-v7+

Have a great day! :)

Siran

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CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

Greetings,

Just what is wrong with this picture?:

Number of tasks completed 	32
Consecutive valid tasks 	34

How can I have more consecutive valid tasks than the number of tasks completed?

An inquiring mind would like to know! ;)

Not just you, not just RPi's.

Every current Linux distro ships with libsensors4 library loaded. That can read basic cpu temps from whatever the hwinfo and cpuinfo subsystem provides. Even without installing lm-sensors. That is typically what psensors can pick up even before installing lm-sensors and running sensors-detect.

Lm-sensors is pretty much limited to very old and established SIO chips. If the host uses something much newer it won't find anything to report. All it can to is possibly detect it found "something" at an ISA address and then it is up to you to investigate that address and see what is there. Then look for what SIO chip family uses that address and see if someone has developed a kernel mode driver for that chip.

That is what I had to do to get a driver for my ASUS Ryzen motherboards. I found the it87 github driver available and now use it for cpu temps, fan speeds and voltages that my ITE8665E SIO chip outputs. Lm-sensors couldn't detect that SIO automatically.

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Seti@Home classic workunits:20,676 CPU time:74,226 hours

A proud member of the OFA (Old Farts Association)

Greetings,

Well, that was a bust.

I tried to power my Pi with an old, about 7 years old, D-Link USB 2.0 powered hub. No such luck. The first thing I noticed was the temperature lightening bolt on the screen constantly. Never was there with the cooling solution I did. It would also do a repetitive boot, it would go through the boot cycle over and over and over... Went back to the power supply that came with it and all is well again.

I did a BUNCH of Googling over the past couple days. I found a 7 port USB 2.0 powered hub that is said to work like a dream with Pis. So, I'm gonna order it, another Pi, some 1/4 inch brass 6-32 standoffs and another cooling solution and get 2 Pis running on SETI. Woohoo! :) Eventually I may have a stack of Pis like what Hal has. lol :)

Have a great day! :)

Siran

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CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

Another option to power your Raspberry Pi. I have had one for about 10 months, powering 3 Raspberry Pi's and a USB fan.

Charging hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WI2DN4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB powered fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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~Chris

Another option to power your Raspberry Pi. I have had one for about 10 months, powering 3 Raspberry Pi's and a USB fan.

Charging hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WI2DN4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB powered fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just to make the links active. ;-)

Another option to power your Raspberry Pi. I have had one for about 10 months, powering 3 Raspberry Pi's and a USB fan.

Charging hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WI2DN4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB powered fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi Chris,

During all of my Googling research, I found this site that lists good and bad hubs to use to power the Pi. The model of hub I'm going for is a Plugable M# USB2-HUB-AG7. It is verified to power the Pi and not do any back feeding to the Pi. And here's the cooling solution I'm getting. Already have one on my current Pi.

Thanks for your suggestions, but I'm going with what I already found. My apologies. :)

Have a great day! :)

Siran

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CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

Greetings,

Lesson learned...

I Googled using my one monitor to see both my PC and my Pi on it without using a KVM. I found a website that mentioned that if you have a multi-input monitor, you should have an input select (didn't even think about that one). My PC is hooked onto the DVI input and the Pi only has a HDMI output, I think. I ran my cable from the mini-monitor, I have bolted to the front grill of my PC, and plugged it into the monitor, other end already on the Pi. I go my mouse for the Pi and switched it on. I then did a double click of the monitor menu button (the second click was to select the input). It went through from where it was at, DVI, got to HDMI and selected that one and BAM! There's my Pi OS on my screen. Then tragedy hit... :(

I wanted to increase the resolution on the Pi and found I only had 4 resolutions and they were all 640x480. Struck out there. I figured there was some way to change it and looked in the preferences. I found something called "Pixel-doubling" for hi-res screens and enabled it without knowing what it does. What a mistake that was. I could not do ANYTHING to reverse what I did. I discovered that if I hit "Shift" at a particular point during boot I could go into "Safe mode". Before I did this I tried all I could to fix my blunder by using Windows Remote desktop. No such luck...

I Googled changing resolutions on the Pi and found one using "sudo raspi-config". I did it and nothing happened. I was getting frustrated by now because I was supposed to be in World of Warcraft killing the Horde. LOL I decided to try to remember exactly what I changed. I remembered it had something to do with Pixels so I Googled pixels on the Pi. I found a forum where someone pulled the same boneheaded maneuver I did. Since I was still in "Safe mode" I edited the file "raspi-config" per instructions on that forum. And so...

My luck changed. I got my Pi back to what it was! Woohoo!!! So, I decided to go into the terminal and do the "sudo raspi-config" thing for the resolution and I have my Pi on this monitor at a decent resolution. Lesson learned: Google before making stupid moves such as the one I did. Especially because I'm not that up on Linux yet :)

Have a great day! :)

Siran

---

CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

Siran, I know on my Pi3 the HDMI plugged into a HD TV comes up low res. Plugged into a decent computer monitor it comes ups hires. So I'm wondering if it is the HDMI cable, they all aren't created equal.

Siran, I know on my Pi3 the HDMI plugged into a HD TV comes up low res. Plugged into a decent computer monitor it comes ups hires. So I'm wondering if it is the HDMI cable, they all aren't created equal.

It's the cable that came in the CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ kit I got. Could be my monitor, it's a couple years old, an Acer model. HDMI from my PC looks like crap on this monitor so I'm thinking monitor. I cannot compare anything with the Pi.

Anyway, all's well now, I fixed my blunder and got the resolution better. I'm not gonna sweat the small stuff. ;)

Have a great day! :)

Siran

---

CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

Greetings,

I had NO idea that 6-32x1/4" brass standoffs were so heavy. A package of 10 is coming from Texas via FedEx and the weight given is 2 lbs. Brass must be an extremely dense metal. lol ;)

According to tracking, I should get all pieces for my next 2 Pis this Friday 1/4/19. Woohoo! :)

Have a great day! :)

Siran

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CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

Greetings,

Well, the new powered USP hub does not pass enough power to the Pi. The Pi will run, but the power LED is not lit and if you have major access to the MicroSD card, it could get corrupted per what I found on the Internet. So, I'm back to using the included power brick power supply. I need to come up with some other power solution for running 3 Pis.

What about a variable volt AC to DC power convertor? I'd have to figure out how to hook up 3 Pi Mini B USB cables to it. :\

Have a great day! :)

Siran

---

CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

The maximum power requirement of any Raspberry Pi unit is 1.2A. So any 5V power supply capable of supplying a minimum of 1.8 A would be suitable.
You don't want a variable voltage supply- it's a great way to kill whatever is connected to it.

Running 3 units, a 5V supply capable of a minimum of 5.4A would be required.
So any 5V 6A supply would be ideal. Or get a 10A or 20A supply if you're likely to add further units.

---

Grant
Darwin NT

The maximum power requirement of any Raspberry Pi unit is 1.2A. So any 5V power supply capable of supplying a minimum of 1.8 A would be suitable.
You don't want a variable voltage supply- it's a great way to kill whatever is connected to it.

Running 3 units, a 5V supply capable of a minimum of 5.4A would be required.
So any 5V 6A supply would be ideal. Or get a 10A or 20A supply if you're likely to add further units.

Hi Grant,

Back a few decades I ran a car stereo in my apartment from a 12V AC to DC power convertor. I saw a variable voltage, variable amperage AC to DC power convertor on Amazon. I was not think of seeing just how much voltage I could send to a Pi before it burned up. I was thinking set it to 5V and appropriate amps and let them run. My dilemma is how 3 Mini B USB cables could be connected from the 3 Pis.

So you say 5V and 6A should be good for 3 Pis. Got it. :)

Have a great day! :)

Siran

---

CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

I would just get a bench regulated 5V power supply with screw or banana terminal outputs and fabricate my own power cables using proper sized wire. Solder the +5V and gnd wires directly to the power pads on the backside of the pcb. I don't know how those "official" micro-USB power cables are supposed to deliver 2.5A over the 30ga wires in a USB cable without dropping a lot of voltage. USB-C is the only USB standard that allows much higher current delivery.

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Seti@Home classic workunits:20,676 CPU time:74,226 hours

A proud member of the OFA (Old Farts Association)

I would just get a bench regulated 5V power supply with screw or banana terminal outputs and fabricate my own power cables using proper sized wire. Solder the +5V and gnd wires directly to the power pads on the backside of the pcb. I don't know how those "official" micro-USB power cables are supposed to deliver 2.5A over the 30ga wires in a USB cable without dropping a lot of voltage. USB-C is the only USB standard that allows much higher current delivery.

Hi Keith,

The power brick that comes in the Pi kits I get have a Micro-USB cable directly connected to it. In my original post I said Mini B cables, that was wrong, they are Micro-USB. The brick is rated at 2.5A so I would imagine the cables carry it since the Pi works just fine with it. I am beginning to believe that the powered USB hubs do not put out enough amperage for the Pi which is causing my other dilemma of trying to power 3 Pis from one power source.

I was getting ready to resort to using a heavy duty power strip I've got and have the 3 bricks plugged into it. But being that this is an old house and the receptacle under my desk here is only 2 prong and not 3 stopped me in my tracks. When the house was converted to 3 this one was missed I guess. I'm thinking of getting a grounded 3 prong to 2 adapter.

Well, I'll have to wait anyway because the kits I got didn't come with the MicroSD card with NOOBs on it. I gotta get 2 of those and download NOOBs, etc...

Have a great day! :)

Siran

---

CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

The problem with powered USB hubs is they can only deliver 5 USB loads over each USB port. A USB 2.0 load is defined at 100mA. So five USB 2.0 loads allows only the maximum current of 500mA over the port.

A USB 3.0 load is defined at 900mA. So five USB 3.0 loads allows only the maximum current of 4500mA over the port. Most USB hubs only deliver 500mA even over the USB 3.0 port.

It sounds like the original brick uses much bigger cables with larger wire gauges to supply the 2.5A. Not typical with almost all aftermarket USB cables. Best to continue to use the provided brick power supply with each Pi and power them off the power strip. Use the 2 prong to 3 prong adapter or go the hardware store and get a proper 3 prong outlet and install it.

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Seti@Home classic workunits:20,676 CPU time:74,226 hours

A proud member of the OFA (Old Farts Association)

Well, the new powered USP hub does not pass enough power to the Pi. The Pi will run, but the power LED is not lit and if you have major access to the MicroSD card, it could get corrupted per what I found on the Internet. So, I'm back to using the included power brick power supply. I need to come up with some other power solution for running 3 Pis.

I use a bunch of Astrotek USB001 chargers. They have 5 ports. I use one port to run fans and the other 4 run the Pi3’s. I designed a case with four Pi3’s side by side with fans on top for cooling. They work quite well even in the hot weather. See http://marksrpicluster.blogspot.com/2018/03/pi4-case-mk-ii.html

A headless Pi3B+ needs around 1.8A when crunching. They recommend 2.5A due to having to supply USB peripherals. When the Pi3 first came out they had 2A power bricks.

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BOINC blog

The problem with powered USB hubs is they can only deliver 5 USB loads over each USB port. A USB 2.0 load is defined at 100mA. So five USB 2.0 loads allows only the maximum current of 500mA over the port.

A USB 3.0 load is defined at 900mA. So five USB 3.0 loads allows only the maximum current of 4500mA over the port. Most USB hubs only deliver 500mA even over the USB 3.0 port.

It sounds like the original brick uses much bigger cables with larger wire gauges to supply the 2.5A. Not typical with almost all aftermarket USB cables. Best to continue to use the provided brick power supply with each Pi and power them off the power strip. Use the 2 prong to 3 prong adapter or go the hardware store and get a proper 3 prong outlet and install it.

Hi Keith,

Yeah, I've resigned to the power strip method of powering my Pis.

I would normally be all for changing the outlet to 3 prong, but... My age is now a factor, nowhere near as limber as I once was. It takes too long to get down on the floor and even longer to get back up. ;) And the other 2 problems is that 1) I'm right handed and 2) the outlet is about 3-4 inches from the left corner of the wall. Over the years I have changed 3 or 4 outlets in this house, one because whoever installed it didn't tighten the wires and they would arc now and then, others because they were loose and plugs would tend to fall out. You should see how burned and melted that one outlet got. We're lucky it didn't start a fire inside the wall. I'll get a 3 prong outlet anyway, just for GP, and if and when I get a wild hair, perhaps I'll change it. :) I'd hate to go to Lowe's just for an adapter that might cost $1.00. ;)

Thanks for the ideas, Keith, and have a great day! :)

Siran

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CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath