2 lists?

I only put up 1 link, supposedly to 1 list, with 47 items, weird.

That's a good point, I don't know why on My end it shows as one.

That's the issue - you have your "wish list" items and your "life essentials" mixed into one list, splitting them would show folks into the two lists would help people understand.

I was thinking more along the lines of imperfections, the rims have some mileage, like just over 100,000 miles.

Only 100,000 miles???? As I said, when putting a tyre on a rim it is almost impossible not to check that the rim is "good enough" to seat a tyre properly - because of the sort of use (abuse) my tyres get I always ask for "bead sealer" to be applied to give that little bit extra when I "air down" to below 10psi to get out of deep mud.....

It's just one list, with 47 items in it, if you define some items differently, I can do nothing about that, plus some are not currently available, I can wait, that's why there are only 47.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

2 lists?

I only put up 1 link, supposedly to 1 list, with 47 items, weird.

That's a good point, I don't know why on My end it shows as one.

That's the issue - you have your "wish list" items and your "life essentials" mixed into one list, splitting them would show folks into the two lists would help people understand.

I was thinking more along the lines of imperfections, the rims have some mileage, like just over 100,000 miles.

Only 100,000 miles???? As I said, when putting a tyre on a rim it is almost impossible not to check that the rim is "good enough" to seat a tyre properly - because of the sort of use (abuse) my tyres get I always ask for "bead sealer" to be applied to give that little bit extra when I "air down" to below 10psi to get out of deep mud.....

I've never heard of bead sealer, but I'm not an auto guy, so what do I know on that, nothing.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

And yes bead sealer is used all the time in the UK by tyre dealers. It is a can of gunge that they brush around the rim before fitting the tyre.

-that's one of the politest descriptions I've heard for it ;-)

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

i always thought that was some type of lubricant

Two gungy stuffs are available - a sealant and a lubricant, neither is pleasant, but the sealant is the worst. by a long way.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

...that all depends on where you get your tyres fitted

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

we don't use tyres here

Tire reinflated in Barstow CA, got mail, came home.

Oh and I signed off from ebay, until I have to do anything there at least.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I found an absolutely NEW main board for the Samsung TV, actually for the UN55D6050TF I found 3, all directly from Samsung, the cost?

$240.52...

I don't know how much shipping is, nor if they charge sales tax or not, but I did find them, but for right now I'll wait.

And no I don't want to post a link, it wasn't hard to find. Since this is the net, I want to make sure I can get one.

It's not the people here on Seti, it's those who are not registered, they can lurk.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I found an absolutely NEW main board for the Samsung TV, actually for the UN55D6050TF I found 3, all directly from Samsung, the cost?

$240.52...

You'ld spend that much to maybe get the dead TV up so you can sell it to buy a ~ $200 GTX1060?

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I found an absolutely NEW main board for the Samsung TV, actually for the UN55D6050TF I found 3, all directly from Samsung, the cost?

$240.52...

You'd spend that much to maybe get the dead TV up so you can sell it to buy a ~ $200 GTX1060?

It depends on how much I'd charge, for a refurbished HD TV/1920x1080p Monitor, and how much the market does.

I have sold stuff there before, so I do know something.

If not, I'd have a monitor at the very least, it has a VGA input, and I'd be assured that the part was NEW and pristine.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Vic give it up, Walmart sells refurbished, with 1 year guarantee, 2017 models for $400 to $500.

It's a 55 inch 1080p 120Hz SMART TV, and a Samsung, not to mention energy star rated.

F models have been sold there, as used, mine would be refurbished. Even a damaged 55 inch F model went for $340.00, I looked for completed sales.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Vic - if you are worried about having, or not having, a VGA input to your TV then there are far less expensive solutions than throwing money at a broken TV. There are some very good adaptors that will convert VGA to HDMI, or HDMI to VGA, or VGA to a-DMI, or a-DMI to to VGA - the most recent one I bout (HDMI out to VGA monitor) cost less than £20, say $25, and it worked straight out of the box (I also have on that goes the other way which likewise worked straight out of the box and cost about the same).

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Vic - if you are worried about having, or not having, a VGA input to your TV then there are far less expensive solutions than throwing money at a broken TV. There are some very good adaptors that will convert VGA to HDMI, or HDMI to VGA, or VGA to a-DMI, or a-DMI to to VGA - the most recent one I bout (HDMI out to VGA monitor) cost less than £20, say $25, and it worked straight out of the box (I also have on that goes the other way which likewise worked straight out of the box and cost about the same).

No I'm not worrying, I have 2 monitors, so why worry?

I just mentioned the Samsung has a VGA input, nothing more was implied.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Another thing to think about is that many of the the 10xx family of cards don't have a VGA or a-DMI output, only d-DMI and HDMI, so that negates the need for a VGA input on the TV, which saves you yet more money on that broken one that may have far more wrong with it than just (yet another) replacement main board.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Another thing to think about is that many of the the 10xx family of cards don't have a VGA or a-DVI output, only d-DVI and HDMI, so that negates the need for a VGA input on the TV, which saves you yet more money on that broken one that may have far more wrong with it than just (yet another) replacement main board.

The Samsung has 4 HDMI(If I had to keep it, the only thing not working is the mainboard, everything else is good, the LCD screen is edge lit by LEDs on the Samsung, Direct LED on the TCL), the TCL has 3 HDMI, and I have a HDMI to DVI adapter saved on Amazon, and I have seen one that goes the other way of course, but I didn't save that, since I was thinking of turning a spare DVI monitor into a spare TV with an ATSC digital converter box, and some new 2.1 speakers, My current speakers need some work to fix some cold soldering, every once in while the speakers here go out on either the right, left, or both channels, but a tap with a phillips screwdrivers and they work again, not bad for DOS era speakers and a 3.5mm stereo plug, I've had these speakers since about 1990.

DVI to HDMI w/audio via USB, currently $43.88 w/FREE shipping, Amazon seems to have quite a bit of goodies, yes I just saved it.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

What inputs does your WORKING TV have?

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

What inputs does your WORKING TV have?

3 HDMI, and audio and video for My current DVD/VHS player/recorder, it's a shame too, blank VHS tapes used to be so abundant...

55S401 specs

1-usb 2.0 (Max 0.5A)
1-Ethernet(Cat 6 connected)
3-HDMI 2.0 (ARC, CEC)
1-RF(Coax, UHF)
1-A/V composite(DVD)
1-s/pdif(audio out only, not used)
1-3.5mm audio out(not used)

UN55D6050TF specs

Inputs & Outputs
4-HDMI
3-USB
1-Ethernet
1-Component(shared w/1 Composite, I think)
2-Composite In (AV)
1-PC Audio Input (Mini Jack)
1-Digital Audio Out (Optical)
1-Audio Out (Mini Jack)
1-VGA

And forget about the Energy Guide Label, I looked high and low, couldn't find it.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Three HDM inputs - OK, so what are you intending to plug in... PC, X-Box, ?????? (not forgetting that there are HDMI splitters and combiners (switches) available at sensible prices)

Well it took just a few seconds to find that the working TCL has a maximum energy consumption of 130W, whereas Samsung don't publish anything other than the standby power for the broken one.
Given the apparent design of the two are so similar (based on the pictures you have already posted) I would be very surprised if the broken Samsung is significantly different to the working TCL.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?