Today I did find and clean off a Delta AFB1212VHE 120x38mm fan that spins at 3200rpm, which is either 130cfm or maybe about 148cfm, but it's the only one that I have and if I do this one of the Koolance 120x25mm fans in the panel is going to be moved to the top of the case, which will allow the panel to shut better, the faster fan hopefully will cool the gpu somewhat better than the 3400rpm Delta 120x25mm 113cfm fan that is in there now, it's too dark now to do this of course, so Thursday it is...

It's not as good as the last fan I mentioned, but then it's not as fast as 4000rpm either. Thankfully I don't have to touch the H70 again...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I was going to replace one fan today, then I thought since I found 3 more 113cfm fans I'd install/replace 5 fans(1@130cfm and 4@113cfm) instead in addition to removing 4 fans(108cfm), of course I had to clean up 3 fans that were dirty, 1 especially so. Plus I lack 3 short machine screws for the Corsair H70 and I don't know the size yet, the one hole that's stripped I can use a self tapping screw on, but that's only 1 corner and I don't want to do that to the other 3 corners or just use the existing screws in the other 3 locations.

Of course cause of the vacuuming that I did on Wednesday in the front room and the kitchen and the work on the PC that I did then, the change over is just not going to happen today, as I just don't feel up to the task today.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok It's about time I update this thread some, the idea was to upgrade to a different psu at first, but that's out for the moment, it was suggested a better or at least newer case might be in order, I'd thought about the Corsair 800D, but being it's 24" deep and the feet would be hanging over thin air, I'd need a plywood platform that's 26"x24" just to use the 800D and a 900D for My next PC which is staying in the HAF-X so far, since the steel shelving I use as a desk is only 18" deep, I decided to get an NZXT Phantom 630 case in June, even though it's almost as big as the 800D at about 23.625"(23 & 5/8") deep, the feet on the 630 should be big enough so that all four feet will sit on the shelves here.

Now as to a psu I'm looking at a Coolmax ZPS-1600B 1600W psu to replace the Silverstone ST1500 with, of course until I get the two 20A 115v circuits moved, I'll stick with the ST1500 psu and 2 GTX580 IE cards(at least when I have a second card that is), once the 20A circuits are moved, then I could have all 3 Zotac GTX580 IE cards instead, plus a few Delta 120mm fans(3-3400/113cfm/25mm and 3-3200rom/130cfm/38mm) and 2-Koolance 108cfm 120x25mm fans in front.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

On second thought the Corsair 900D will fit here, it's 27.2"(H) x 9.9"(W) x 25.6"(D), it just can't fit straight, like My current PC does, just at an angle or straight with a 12"x26" plywood board, of which I might have, nope it's 15"x24" in size.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I had an idea to get the H70 and the 580's radiator to be side by side, gut a pair of old slow 120x25mm fans and add the two fans in between the 580's radiator and it's fan, I figure since an H70 can be adjacent to a 120mm fan or even in between a pair of them in the case, I thought this might actually work. A 38mm fan and a 25mm fan would of course be almost enough to clear the H70(50mm thick) and a 25mm thick fan at 63mm, but two cheap gutted 120x25mm fans plus the 580's fan would be better as that would equal the 75mm of the H70 and it's fan.

Plus I'd looked at the HAF-X case last night with an eye towards installing the current system in there, while I could get 3 radiators in there, the 4th could not be installed in the bottom of the case without some mods that I don't feel capable of doing, since that location has no screw holes anymore since Coolermaster based the HAF-X on the HAF-932 case and made some major alterations to the case design. The NZXT 630 case is nice and all, but so far it does not allow for more than NZXT fans of 200mm in it's door, so I may need to buy a part to replace the top of the HAF-932 as I think the fall bent the plastic top part some as nothing is out of place, deformed maybe.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok I tried to combine the two scrap fan frames to make up 2" more depth using fan screws and the screw drivers shown and the thin phillips will fit in the holes where the screws go, but it can't twist the screw too far, the larger screw driver will drive the screw, but it will not fit where the smaller one can go, so that idea is a bust. I have a 120x38mm afc1212de fan that runs at 3900rpm @192.96cfm fan and a Delta afb1212vhe fan that might do 148cfm and that needs rewiring as the wire at the connector is shot, so far I have no way to drop the radiator down to clear the H70 and it's 25mm thick fan. I was trying to make My own fan duct.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Instead this is what I'll have to do, buy 2 120mm to 140mm fan adapters, like so and put the 140 sides together with fan screws, this I know should work, except for the width, it's that or two 92mm to 120mm adapters which will work, in theory, I found some 6-32 3" long machine screws, which I can cut short with a tool that I have to a custom size and join a 38mm thick fan(duct) to a 113cfm 25mm thick fan, that will work and provide some of the needed clearance, to get the rest of the way I'll have to get some 6-32 3/4" machine screws, 6-32 nuts and lock washers to mount the 25mm duct to the 38mm fan(duct), cumbersome to install, but it should work and it will have to wait until the end of the month, as that's $16.99 that I simply don't have right now.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Could you drill a hole through the upper part of lower frame to use the screwdriver through and then nut & washer & bolt the upper frame to hole in lower frame?

Or hex head screws and little wrench.

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Could you drill a hole through the upper part of lower frame to use the screwdriver through and then nut & washer & bolt the upper frame to hole in lower frame?

Or hex head screws and little wrench.

A wrench, not likely, as there are structural ribs in the way, drilling is not needed with machine screws.

Well with custom cut screws I could secure the 38mm flanged duct to the 25mm thick Delta 120mm fan & the radiator, then secure the 38mm duct to a 25mm thick duct with some 6-32 machine screws with lock washers and hex nuts, then secure the whole assembly using fan screws to the case, then that H70 could be right next to the IE 580 radiator and it's the only way I can think of, short of trying to drill 4 holes in the case and My skills and hands aren't that good, just getting the screw driver into the screws takes some patience as the hands don't always want to cooperate... Like below really.

radiator/fan/duct/duct/case

Like so minus the case and the radiator...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Here's a close up of the fan ducts and a fan with a 6-32 1" long screw, and that screw barely fits, a longer one at 1.25" might fit, what's the problem? The head has to get past the edge of the fan...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Here's a close up of the fan ducts and a fan with a 6-32 1" long screw, and that screw barely fits, a longer one at 1.25" might fit, what's the problem? The head has to get past the edge of the fan...

Put the screws in the other way.

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A Living example of Artificial Intelligence.

Here's a close up of the fan ducts and a fan with a 6-32 1" long screw, and that screw barely fits, a longer one at 1.25" might fit, what's the problem? The head has to get past the edge of the fan...

Put the screws in the other way.

Can't, the radiator would be where the table is, that screw would screw a 25mm thick fan and 38mm duct into the radiator and a 25mm duct would have its own screw and hex nut w/locking washer to secure both ducts to each other and the case roof would be at the top.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Here's a close up of the fan ducts and a fan with a 6-32 1" long screw, and that screw barely fits, a longer one at 1.25" might fit, what's the problem? The head has to get past the edge of the fan...

With a small sharp wood chisel you should easily whittle enough of the plastic away to get that screw head to sit properly. ;-)

Cheers.

How about four 6-32 3.25" long screws. One screw through all three pieces and washers to adjust height.

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How about four 6-32 3.25" long screws. One screw through all three pieces and washers to adjust height.

38mm+25mm+25mm=88mm(divided by 25.4) is about 3.46" or nearly 3.5", Home Depot doesn't sell machine screws longer than 3", online or at their stores, about the longest I could find, on ebay are 3.5" slotted panhead screws, they may not be long enough, slotted screws are the worst screws made in My opinion, Phillips is better, the longest Phillips is 3" so far.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

How about four 6-32 3.25" long screws. One screw through all three pieces and washers to adjust height.

38mm+25mm+25mm=88mm(divided by 25.4) is about 3.46" or nearly 3.5", Home Depot doesn't sell machine screws longer than 3", online or at their stores, about the longest I could find, on ebay are 3.5" slotted panhead screws, they may not be long enough, slotted screws are the worst screws made in My opinion, Phillips is better, the longest Phillips is 3" so far.

Can you find a 3 foot length of threaded rod the right diameter, cut it to length and double nut it at one end, and use that instead of a long screw?

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Bruce

How about four 6-32 3.25" long screws. One screw through all three pieces and washers to adjust height.

38mm+25mm+25mm=88mm(divided by 25.4) is about 3.46" or nearly 3.5", Home Depot doesn't sell machine screws longer than 3", online or at their stores, about the longest I could find, on ebay are 3.5" slotted panhead screws, they may not be long enough, slotted screws are the worst screws made in My opinion, Phillips is better, the longest Phillips is 3" so far.

Can you find a 3 foot length of threaded rod the right diameter, cut it to length and double nut it at one end, and use that instead of a long screw?

3'(foot)? I was talking about 3 inches(3"), in any case, No I can not.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

OK, so you can't use a 3.5" home made bolt. You talked about using a 1.25" machine screw, but didn't think you could get it started into the hole. What if you took the holes you have problems with and turn them into slots. Do you think that might give you enough room to angle the longer screw into it?

Just tossing out ideas here.

Bruce

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Bruce

OK, so you can't use a 3.5" home made bolt. You talked about using a 1.25" machine screw, but didn't think you could get it started into the hole. What if you took the holes you have problems with and turn them into slots. Do you think that might give you enough room to angle the longer screw into it?

Just tossing out ideas here.

Bruce

I don't have a saw or suitable blades for the dremel which puts My hands to sleep when I've tried using it and a rotating blade can be dangerous or even stick in the plastic and the 15/16" cutoff wheel costs about $7.34 down at Home Depot, that's the only hardware store for 30 miles in any direction. The 1.25" 6-32 screws only cost about $1.27 w/sales tax down at the Home Depot and in this case are 4 to a package since their stainless steel. $1.27 is very low risk, $7.34 could make things worse, but I'd keep the cutoff wheel in mind if the screws didn't work out.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Vic a trick I learned from a guy who worked in a plastic molding factory told me That a spray bottle filled with dishsoap and water makes cutting plastic a heck of a lot easier. I have done that myself and it works. You just spray the area you want to cut.

Soapy water also works for applying decals. spray the area set the decal where you want it then squeege the decal. We did that at my last place of employment.

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Old James