just go back to 2.9, it looks like my q6600 has an internal timer, every time i thought it is stable, bang, reboot. and the best is, it always happens after 10 to 12 hours crunching. lol
next try to get 3.0 next weekend.

What type of heatsink does Your Q6600 have? If It's stock no wonder, As there is no timer in the cpu, You're just overheating most likely and may need better cpu cooling.

Actually i use a Zalman 9500. My temps are at 3.0
Case 33C
CPU 50C - Easytune from Gigabyte
Cores ~70C - Coretemp

I think this temps should be no problem.
Use ram ocz1066, configured as 800 in the bios so it still did not reach the limits. Voltage raised to needed 2.1
use Board from Gigabyte. it cab run 1333 fsb, just reached if going to 3.0. Should be no problem too
PCIe is fixed

I will take any suggestions, because it should be possible. Running at 2.9 without raising any voltages exept the ram.

THX

According to the INTEL WEBSITE they measure the max. temp based on case temp. of 62C, interesting.

---

According to the INTEL WEBSITE they measure the max. temp based on case temp. of 62C, interesting.

I would guess that is the case temperature of the package?

The critical temperatures to look for are what maximum chip die temperature, what chip package surface temperature, and for that what heatsink you need for that power dissipation for whatever maximum ambient temperature you want.

Also allow a few degress C lost across the thermal grease!

Consumer parts are often specified to a maximum of 0 to +80 deg C. Check carefully whether that is package or chip die!


Happy crunchin',
Martin

---

See new freedom: Mageia Linux
Take a look for yourself: Linux Format
The Future is what We all make IT (GPLv3)

just go back to 2.9, it looks like my q6600 has an internal timer, every time i thought it is stable, bang, reboot. and the best is, it always happens after 10 to 12 hours crunching. lol
next try to get 3.0 next weekend.

What type of heatsink does Your Q6600 have? If It's stock no wonder, As there is no timer in the cpu, You're just overheating most likely and may need better cpu cooling.

Actually i use a Zalman 9500. My temps are at 3.0
Case 33C
CPU 50C - Easytune from Gigabyte
Cores ~70C - Coretemp

I think this temps should be no problem.
Use ram ocz1066, configured as 800 in the bios so it still did not reach the limits. Voltage raised to needed 2.1
use Board from Gigabyte. it cab run 1333 fsb, just reached if going to 3.0. Should be no problem too
PCIe is fixed

I will take any suggestions, because it should be possible. Running at 2.9 without raising any voltages exept the ram.

THX

According to the INTEL WEBSITE they measure the max. temp based on case temp. of 62C, interesting.

Yeah, i knew, but it is a value, i think, no one can check this in live. Intel measured it right in the middle on top of the cpu ( do not find the link at the moment). On my rig there is the cooler ??? and even the sensor on my board can't measure it. but i found no information how the temps can be in in the cores, and this is a value that can be read out from coretemp or tat. I am not very lucky about this.

just go back to 2.9, it looks like my q6600 has an internal timer, every time i thought it is stable, bang, reboot. and the best is, it always happens after 10 to 12 hours crunching. lol
next try to get 3.0 next weekend.

What type of heatsink does Your Q6600 have? If It's stock no wonder, As there is no timer in the cpu, You're just overheating most likely and may need better cpu cooling.

Actually i use a Zalman 9500. My temps are at 3.0
Case 33C
CPU 50C - Easytune from Gigabyte
Cores ~70C - Coretemp

I think this temps should be no problem.
Use ram ocz1066, configured as 800 in the bios so it still did not reach the limits. Voltage raised to needed 2.1
use Board from Gigabyte. it cab run 1333 fsb, just reached if going to 3.0. Should be no problem too
PCIe is fixed

I will take any suggestions, because it should be possible. Running at 2.9 without raising any voltages exept the ram.

THX

According to the INTEL WEBSITE they measure the max. temp based on case temp. of 62C, interesting.

Yeah, i knew, but it is a value, i think, no one can check this in live. Intel measured it right in the middle on top of the cpu ( do not find the link at the moment). On my rig there is the cooler ??? and even the sensor on my board can't measure it. but i found no information how the temps can be in in the cores, and this is a value that can be read out from coretemp or tat. I am not very lucky about this.

Here's something else I found a couple weeks ago that talks about the temps from Toms Hardware but again, a lot of it is greek to me.

---

just go back to 2.9, it looks like my q6600 has an internal timer, every time i thought it is stable, bang, reboot. and the best is, it always happens after 10 to 12 hours crunching. lol
next try to get 3.0 next weekend.

What type of heatsink does Your Q6600 have? If It's stock no wonder, As there is no timer in the cpu, You're just overheating most likely and may need better cpu cooling.

Actually i use a Zalman 9500. My temps are at 3.0
Case 33C
CPU 50C - Easytune from Gigabyte
Cores ~70C - Coretemp

I think this temps should be no problem.
Use ram ocz1066, configured as 800 in the bios so it still did not reach the limits. Voltage raised to needed 2.1
use Board from Gigabyte. it cab run 1333 fsb, just reached if going to 3.0. Should be no problem too
PCIe is fixed

I will take any suggestions, because it should be possible. Running at 2.9 without raising any voltages except the ram.

THX

According to the INTEL WEBSITE they measure the max. temp based on case temp. of 62C, interesting.

Yeah, i knew, but it is a value, i think, no one can check this in live. Intel measured it right in the middle on top of the cpu ( do not find the link at the moment). On my rig there is the cooler ??? and even the sensor on my board can't measure it. but i found no information how the temps can be in in the cores, and this is a value that can be read out from coretemp or tat. I am not very lucky about this.

Here's something else I found a couple weeks ago that talks about the temps from Toms Hardware but again, a lot of it is greek to me.

My case temps are always down in the low 30C range, So I'm not worried. I'm running both My QX6700 cpus at a core voltage of 1.5v and have been doing so for a while, Of course I need either Vigor Monsoon II or Ultra ChillTEC heatsinks to do this, But It's worth It, Oh and I run My OCZ ram @ 2.35v too. Of course for what I have I have run the swamp cooler 24/7 in the spring, summer & fall, In the winter I can turn the swamp cooler off unless It's a warm day that is. And that page is what I've suspected all along since I got back into Intel cpus. :D

---

The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

msattler, you were right. My Q6600 was down for a while. My office had a 30 amp breaker, but it turns out the wire was only rated for 15. My farm fry'ed the wire. Well, I just had it replaced (major job, opening walls, etc..) and got the q6600 running. I did have some old soup in it. Just put new soup (as suggested) in the pot and it's RAC should now be climbing again. Again, thanks for the advise.

By code, the breaker needs to be sized to match, or smaller than, the wire, and the plug should be the appropriate type for the circuit (i.e. you must not install a 20amp outlet on a 15amp circuit).

... if you draw more current through the wire than it can handle, it will get hot enough to start a fire.

... unless you are very, very lucky.

Oversize wire is very safe, that's why the breaker can be smaller.

Your right. The wires had been installed when the house was built. The breakers had been replaced and upsized by prior owners over the years (40 year old house). There should never have been a 30 amp breaker on this circut. The wires did overhead and started to burn. I was lucky that breaker did shut off before anything else caught fire. I replaced the wire with 6 gauge, oversized. Moral of the story, don't trust that breakers and wires match. When buying a house have a professional check out the electrical system. Only thing is that I did have an inspector check it out and he missed this circut.

Very important to have wiring inspected; our kitchen had had the (physically loose) ceiling fan wired with 18ga wire spliced in with electrical tape, sitting(no junction boxes) on a wood framed dropped ceiling(15a circuit); since it was above the wooden dropped ceiling, the inspector also missed this. I'm glad I found it; I have had almost everything in the house apart since we moved in. (also had knob and tube wiring electrical taped splice into armored cable with the splice against 2x4s in the wall)
SMR

---

msattler, you were right. My Q6600 was down for a while. My office had a 30 amp breaker, but it turns out the wire was only rated for 15. My farm fry'ed the wire. Well, I just had it replaced (major job, opening walls, etc..) and got the q6600 running. I did have some old soup in it. Just put new soup (as suggested) in the pot and it's RAC should now be climbing again. Again, thanks for the advise.

By code, the breaker needs to be sized to match, or smaller than, the wire, and the plug should be the appropriate type for the circuit (i.e. you must not install a 20amp outlet on a 15amp circuit).

... if you draw more current through the wire than it can handle, it will get hot enough to start a fire.

... unless you are very, very lucky.

Oversize wire is very safe, that's why the breaker can be smaller.

Your right. The wires had been installed when the house was built. The breakers had been replaced and upsized by prior owners over the years (40 year old house). There should never have been a 30 amp breaker on this circut. The wires did overhead and started to burn. I was lucky that breaker did shut off before anything else caught fire. I replaced the wire with 6 gauge, oversized. Moral of the story, don't trust that breakers and wires match. When buying a house have a professional check out the electrical system. Only thing is that I did have an inspector check it out and he missed this circut.

Very important to have wiring inspected; our kitchen had had the (physically loose) ceiling fan wired with 18ga wire spliced in with electrical tape, sitting(no junction boxes) on a wood framed dropped ceiling(15a circuit); since it was above the wooden dropped ceiling, the inspector also missed this. I'm glad I found it; I have had almost everything in the house apart since we moved in. (also had knob and tube wiring electrical taped splice into armored cable with the splice against 2x4s in the wall)
SMR

Ouch....I did residential electical work with a master electrician for awhile, and on some of the remodel jobs we did I could not believe some of the cobbled wiring I found had not burned those houses to the ground. And that knob-and-tube stuff that had been patched into newer wiring and was still powered up.....now that's dangerous stuff.

---

"Freedom is just Chaos, with better lighting." Alan Dean Foster

msattler, you were right. My Q6600 was down for a while. My office had a 30 amp breaker, but it turns out the wire was only rated for 15. My farm fried the wire. Well, I just had it replaced (major job, opening walls, etc..) and got the q6600 running. I did have some old soup in it. Just put new soup (as suggested) in the pot and it's RAC should now be climbing again. Again, thanks for the advise.

By code, the breaker needs to be sized to match, or smaller than, the wire, and the plug should be the appropriate type for the circuit (i.e. you must not install a 20amp outlet on a 15amp circuit).

... if you draw more current through the wire than it can handle, it will get hot enough to start a fire.

... unless you are very, very lucky.

Oversize wire is very safe, that's why the breaker can be smaller.

Your right. The wires had been installed when the house was built. The breakers had been replaced and up sized by prior owners over the years (40 year old house). There should never have been a 30 amp breaker on this circuit. The wires did overhead and started to burn. I was lucky that breaker did shut off before anything else caught fire. I replaced the wire with 6 gauge, oversized. Moral of the story, don't trust that breakers and wires match. When buying a house have a professional check out the electrical system. Only thing is that I did have an inspector check it out and he missed this circuit.

Very important to have wiring inspected; our kitchen had had the (physically loose) ceiling fan wired with 18ga wire spliced in with electrical tape, sitting(no junction boxes) on a wood framed dropped ceiling(15a circuit); since it was above the wooden dropped ceiling, the inspector also missed this. I'm glad I found it; I have had almost everything in the house apart since we moved in. (also had knob and tube wiring electrical taped splice into armored cable with the splice against 2x4s in the wall)
SMR

Ouch....I did residential electrical work with a master electrician for awhile, and on some of the remodel jobs we did I could not believe some of the cobbled wiring I found had not burned those houses to the ground. And that knob-and-tube stuff that had been patched into newer wiring and was still powered up.....now that's dangerous stuff.

I'm lucky, My place had to meet HUD building codes when It was built, My Kitchen & Front Room breakers are 20A circuits(that's what's installed at least and the wires are 12 gauge, It's stiff wire, But not nearly as stiff as 10 gauge of course). I can see 14 gauge on a 15A circuit, 12 gauge on a 20A circuit and 10 gauge on a 30A circuit(These are All minimum wire gauges I would ever consider using I might add), But 18? That's too small, It would do for a lamp cord or even speaker wire, But that's It.

---

The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

msattler, you were right. My Q6600 was down for a while. My office had a 30 amp breaker, but it turns out the wire was only rated for 15. My farm fried the wire. Well, I just had it replaced (major job, opening walls, etc..) and got the q6600 running. I did have some old soup in it. Just put new soup (as suggested) in the pot and it's RAC should now be climbing again. Again, thanks for the advise.

By code, the breaker needs to be sized to match, or smaller than, the wire, and the plug should be the appropriate type for the circuit (i.e. you must not install a 20amp outlet on a 15amp circuit).

... if you draw more current through the wire than it can handle, it will get hot enough to start a fire.

... unless you are very, very lucky.

Oversize wire is very safe, that's why the breaker can be smaller.

Your right. The wires had been installed when the house was built. The breakers had been replaced and up sized by prior owners over the years (40 year old house). There should never have been a 30 amp breaker on this circuit. The wires did overhead and started to burn. I was lucky that breaker did shut off before anything else caught fire. I replaced the wire with 6 gauge, oversized. Moral of the story, don't trust that breakers and wires match. When buying a house have a professional check out the electrical system. Only thing is that I did have an inspector check it out and he missed this circuit.

Very important to have wiring inspected; our kitchen had had the (physically loose) ceiling fan wired with 18ga wire spliced in with electrical tape, sitting(no junction boxes) on a wood framed dropped ceiling(15a circuit); since it was above the wooden dropped ceiling, the inspector also missed this. I'm glad I found it; I have had almost everything in the house apart since we moved in. (also had knob and tube wiring electrical taped splice into armored cable with the splice against 2x4s in the wall)
SMR

Ouch....I did residential electrical work with a master electrician for awhile, and on some of the remodel jobs we did I could not believe some of the cobbled wiring I found had not burned those houses to the ground. And that knob-and-tube stuff that had been patched into newer wiring and was still powered up.....now that's dangerous stuff.

I'm lucky, My place had to meet HUD building codes when It was built, My Kitchen & Front Room breakers are 20A circuits(that's what's installed at least and the wires are 12 gauge, It's stiff wire, But not nearly as stiff as 10 gauge of course). I can see 14 gauge on a 15A circuit, 12 gauge on a 20A circuit and 10 gauge on a 30A circuit(These are All minimum wire gauges I would ever consider using I might add), But 18? That's too small, It would do for a lamp cord or even speaker wire, But that's It.

I started doing a remodel on my house a few years back (old knob & tube wiring). The first wall I stripped the plaster off I found lamp core (18 G) connected with a "twist & tape" (not even soldered). I went down stairs, flipped the main breaker off and started re-wiring the whole house first.

---

Boinc Button Abuser In Training >My Shrubbers<

Let see what can Wolfdale(Penryn 2Cores) do: Wolfdale vs. Conroe(It's in chinese, but numbers talks)
With standard apps Wolfy is better from 5-10%
With optimised apps for SSE4 we get 115%, yeah not bad ;)
And the temps are much, much better 37C for Wolfdale vs 49C for Conroe
Waiting to see prices from Intel, but results are very promising.

---

msattler, you were right. My Q6600 was down for a while. My office had a 30 amp breaker, but it turns out the wire was only rated for 15. My farm fried the wire. Well, I just had it replaced (major job, opening walls, etc..) and got the q6600 running. I did have some old soup in it. Just put new soup (as suggested) in the pot and it's RAC should now be climbing again. Again, thanks for the advise.

By code, the breaker needs to be sized to match, or smaller than, the wire, and the plug should be the appropriate type for the circuit (i.e. you must not install a 20amp outlet on a 15amp circuit).

... if you draw more current through the wire than it can handle, it will get hot enough to start a fire.

... unless you are very, very lucky.

Oversize wire is very safe, that's why the breaker can be smaller.

Your right. The wires had been installed when the house was built. The breakers had been replaced and up sized by prior owners over the years (40 year old house). There should never have been a 30 amp breaker on this circuit. The wires did overhead and started to burn. I was lucky that breaker did shut off before anything else caught fire. I replaced the wire with 6 gauge, oversized. Moral of the story, don't trust that breakers and wires match. When buying a house have a professional check out the electrical system. Only thing is that I did have an inspector check it out and he missed this circuit.

Very important to have wiring inspected; our kitchen had had the (physically loose) ceiling fan wired with 18ga wire spliced in with electrical tape, sitting(no junction boxes) on a wood framed dropped ceiling(15a circuit); since it was above the wooden dropped ceiling, the inspector also missed this. I'm glad I found it; I have had almost everything in the house apart since we moved in. (also had knob and tube wiring electrical taped splice into armored cable with the splice against 2x4s in the wall)
SMR

Ouch....I did residential electrical work with a master electrician for awhile, and on some of the remodel jobs we did I could not believe some of the cobbled wiring I found had not burned those houses to the ground. And that knob-and-tube stuff that had been patched into newer wiring and was still powered up.....now that's dangerous stuff.

I'm lucky, My place had to meet HUD building codes when It was built, My Kitchen & Front Room breakers are 20A circuits(that's what's installed at least and the wires are 12 gauge, It's stiff wire, But not nearly as stiff as 10 gauge of course). I can see 14 gauge on a 15A circuit, 12 gauge on a 20A circuit and 10 gauge on a 30A circuit(These are All minimum wire gauges I would ever consider using I might add), But 18? That's too small, It would do for a lamp cord or even speaker wire, But that's It.

I started doing a remodel on my house a few years back (old knob & tube wiring). The first wall I stripped the plaster off I found lamp core (18 G) connected with a "twist & tape" (not even soldered). I went down stairs, flipped the main breaker off and started re-wiring the whole house first.

Good, That sounded like You averted somebodys disaster alright, Copper is expensive, But that would be tragic If You lost Your house, But You did catch It in time and that's good. One thing puzzles Me, I guess It's cause I've never heard of nob and tube, armored wiring sure, Just not the stuff You had, must be really old, As the oldest wiring I've come across had a sort of cloth insulation around the wires, But that was years ago and not a house I own anymore thankfully. Ooops never mind, I've seen It and had a house with It in place at one time, I was told as long as It was in good shape It was ok, I had the house inspected by the city the house is in, I didn't know It was called knob & tube wiring and yeah It's so old the term grandfathered describes how old It is and why It's still allowed in older houses today. Of course that house was made around 1910 or so and had real 2x3, 2x4 and other sizes of rough cut lumber in It, Not to mention rolled edge roofing and balloon framing for the walls.

---

The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Let see what can Wolfdale(Penryn 2Cores) do: Wolfdale vs. Conroe(It's in chinese, but numbers talks)
With standard apps Wolfy is better from 5-10%
With optimised apps for SSE4 we get 115%, yeah not bad ;)
And the temps are much, much better 37C for Wolfdale vs 49C for Conroe
Waiting to see prices from Intel, but results are very promising.

It'll be very intersting to see how the 45nm architecture overclocks! They lower power consumption should help, but I wonder if it will affect the maximum die temperature that is allowed.
It looks like the FP performance is similar to the Conroe, but the new architecture may have some new code available (SSE4?) that could open the doors to some new program optimizations.
'S gonna be very interesting in the coming months for us hardcore Seti crunchers!

---

"Freedom is just Chaos, with better lighting." Alan Dean Foster

:)

who?

Let see what can Wolfdale(Penryn 2Cores) do: Wolfdale vs. Conroe(It's in chinese, but numbers talks)
With standard apps Wolfy is better from 5-10%
With optimised apps for SSE4 we get 115%, yeah not bad ;)
And the temps are much, much better 37C for Wolfdale vs 49C for Conroe
Waiting to see prices from Intel, but results are very promising.

It'll be very intersting to see how the 45nm architecture overclocks! They lower power consumption should help, but I wonder if it will affect the maximum die temperature that is allowed.
It looks like the FP performance is similar to the Conroe, but the new architecture may have some new code available (SSE4?) that could open the doors to some new program optimizations.
'S gonna be very interesting in the coming months for us hardcore Seti crunchers!

Wolfdale 2.33GHz overclocked to 3.77GHz with nominal voltage (russian language link) not bad for engineering CPU

---

:)

who?

That looks pretty good. Nice new computer you have there. :D

Pam

:)
who?

oooooooh!
3x faster than Core 2 6600 and 2x faster than Xeon 5150... Looking interesting!
I like the processor name, you engraved it yourself? :-)

:)
who?

oooooooh!
3x faster than Core 2 6600 and 2x faster than Xeon 5150... Looking interesting!
I like the processor name, you engraved it yourself? :-)

I wonder can It be installed in an i975x chipset motherboard that supposedly has 1333 support in the Bios? An Abit AW9D-MAX in this case. If Yes, It would be really good, Otherwise I'd not bother as It would be way too expensive to get for the next 4 years or so.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I wonder can It be installed in an i975x chipset motherboard that supposedly has 1333 support in the Bios? An Abit AW9D-MAX in this case. If Yes, It would be really good, Otherwise I'd not bother as It would be way too expensive to get for the next 4 years or so.

Surely it will go in a P35 chipset motherboard? They are supposed to be 45nm ready.

I wonder can It be installed in an i975x chipset motherboard that supposedly has 1333 support in the Bios? An Abit AW9D-MAX in this case. If Yes, It would be really good, Otherwise I'd not bother as It would be way too expensive to get for the next 4 years or so.

Surely it will go in a P35 chipset motherboard? They are supposed to be 45nm ready.

I don't currently own any P35 motherboards, Maybe in 2012, But not anytime soon.

---

The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Anyone get this Dell Q6600? Was the price good....without selecting a monitor?

I found another 'deal' on a Q6600 desktop but it is a Dell :(

Even having said that, it's only $619.00 + tax with free shipping, so, about 668.00 with 8% sales tax.

Agreed, it's a Dell but dang, that's a hell of a price.

I checked out the LINK and did what it said and there are not hitches.

Again, I'm sure it's not a great mobo and it's only Vista Basic but that's going to be a price that's hard to beat if you just want a cruncher and don't want/plan to overclock.

Thoughts?

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