Vic a trick I learned from a guy who worked in a plastic molding factory told me That a spray bottle filled with dishsoap and water makes cutting plastic a heck of a lot easier. I have done that myself and it works. You just spray the area you want to cut.

Soapy water also works for applying decals. spray the area set the decal where you want it then squeege the decal. We did that at my last place of employment.

Well I still have no way at the moment of cutting plastic this thick, I took part of a corner out on a fan duct so that the duct could have open corners with wire cutters since the area was of thin plastic, thankfully the plastic won't harm the cutting surface, but the thicker sections the cutter can't touch.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok for a shorter psu with a single 12v rail, I've chosen the OCZ zx series Full Modular 1250W psu, cause it's 175mm long and that will supposedly power two GTX580 cards and that has 104A on that one 12v rail, the third GTX580 will need the Tt 650w video card psu that is still new in the box and that takes up 2 drive bays and yes I just happen to have one in My inventory.

I've noted while I was running the 580 here that gpu-z said it was using about 45-51.5A while at 772MHz and while at 50.6MHz about 10.5A, the four 12v rails that the ST1500 has are 25A each, I'm using two 12v rails to power the current GTX580, do all 580's use that much power when crunching?

If so I just had a disturbing thought(to Me at least), that I might have to have 3 psus to power these 3 cards, a 1250w, a 650w and a 450w(fits in a single 5.25" drive bay and would possibly supplement the 2nd 580 card, the 650w takes up 2 bays out of 6), I know maybe I should get another case to house everything, this seems to be the only case that can do the job without costing an arm and a leg(a Caselabs case) or being a giant case(the Corsair 900D), Caselabs does make a case that could replace the HAF-932, it's the Merlin SM8 Case with a few options added which is $552.57 with sales tax and shipping, I don't know if I'd go that route.

Oh and I figured out how to mount the current Zotac IE/AMP! GTX580 radiator next to the H70 radiator, use a 120x38mm thick fan along with a 38mm fan duct, of course that means buying four screws that act like longer versions of fan screws and a 3900rpm or a 4000rpm fan(148-150cfm), possibly four 1.75" to 2" long thin lag screws to stitch the two 38mm thick parts together. I'll have to take a fan screw down to the Home Depot eventually to get this done, just getting 4 wheels for a HAF-X case is hard to do, since their hard to find and I've looked all over the place.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok for a shorter psu with a single 12v rail, I've chosen the OCZ zx series Full Modular 1250W psu, cause it's 175mm long and that will supposedly power two GTX580 cards and that has 104A on that one 12v rail, the third GTX580 will need the Tt 650w video card psu that is still new in the box and that takes up 2 drive bays and yes I just happen to have one in My inventory.

I've noted while I was running the 580 here that gpu-z said it was using about 45-51.5A while at 772MHz and while at 50.6MHz about 10.5A, the four 12v rails that the ST1500 has are 25A each, I'm using two 12v rails to power the current GTX580, do all 580's use that much power when crunching?

If so I just had a disturbing thought(to Me at least), that I might have to have 3 psus to power these 3 cards, a 1250w, a 650w and a 450w(fits in a single 5.25" drive bay and would possibly supplement the 2nd 580 card, the 650w takes up 2 bays out of 6), I know maybe I should get another case to house everything, this seems to be the only case that can do the job without costing an arm and a leg(a Caselabs case) or being a giant case(the Corsair 900D), Caselabs does make a case that could replace the HAF-932, it's the Merlin SM8 Case with a few options added which is $552.57 with sales tax and shipping, I don't know if I'd go that route.

Oh and I figured out how to mount the current Zotac IE/AMP! GTX580 radiator next to the H70 radiator, use a 120x38mm thick fan along with a 38mm fan duct, of course that means buying four screws that act like longer versions of fan screws and a 3900rpm or a 4000rpm fan(148-150cfm), possibly four 1.75" to 2" long thin lag screws to stitch the two 38mm thick parts together. I'll have to take a fan screw down to the Home Depot eventually to get this done, just getting 4 wheels for a HAF-X case is hard to do, since their hard to find and I've looked all over the place.

What GPUZ are you using that tells the amps the card is using ?

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Ok for a shorter psu with a single 12v rail, I've chosen the OCZ zx series Full Modular 1250W psu, cause it's 175mm long and that will supposedly power two GTX580 cards and that has 104A on that one 12v rail, the third GTX580 will need the Tt 650w video card psu that is still new in the box and that takes up 2 drive bays and yes I just happen to have one in My inventory.

I've noted while I was running the 580 here that gpu-z said it was using about 45-51.5A while at 772MHz and while at 50.6MHz about 10.5A, the four 12v rails that the ST1500 has are 25A each, I'm using two 12v rails to power the current GTX580, do all 580's use that much power when crunching?

If so I just had a disturbing thought(to Me at least), that I might have to have 3 psus to power these 3 cards, a 1250w, a 650w and a 450w(fits in a single 5.25" drive bay and would possibly supplement the 2nd 580 card, the 650w takes up 2 bays out of 6), I know maybe I should get another case to house everything, this seems to be the only case that can do the job without costing an arm and a leg(a Caselabs case) or being a giant case(the Corsair 900D), Caselabs does make a case that could replace the HAF-932, it's the Merlin SM8 Case with a few options added which is $552.57 with sales tax and shipping, I don't know if I'd go that route.

Oh and I figured out how to mount the current Zotac IE/AMP! GTX580 radiator next to the H70 radiator, use a 120x38mm thick fan along with a 38mm fan duct, of course that means buying four screws that act like longer versions of fan screws and a 3900rpm or a 4000rpm fan(148-150cfm), possibly four 1.75" to 2" long thin lag screws to stitch the two 38mm thick parts together. I'll have to take a fan screw down to the Home Depot eventually to get this done, just getting 4 wheels for a HAF-X case is hard to do, since their hard to find and I've looked all over the place.

What GPUZ are you using that tells the amps the card is using ?

0.70 and 0.71 both do this, or least I think that's what I'm seeing under VDDC Current, if I'm wrong ok with that.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

My evga GTX 460 SE on GPUZ doesn't show Current like your card does...

I wish it did show current also...

http://gpuz.techpowerup.com/13/05/20/esy.png

that's why I was asking which version of GPUZ you have...

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It's the card I suspect that has to have all the sensors.

My GTX 560 doesn't have them either.



Nor my GTS450

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And this GTX 580 just happened to have them, that I didn't know before.

I think it's up to the cards design to display that info or not, like Bernie said.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

And this GTX 580 just happened to have them, that I didn't know before.

I think it's up to the cards design to display that info or not, like Bernie said.

Well I need to win the lottery so I can get one of those... LOL

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And this GTX 580 just happened to have them, that I didn't know before.

I think it's up to the cards design to display that info or not, like Bernie said.

Well I need to win the lottery so I can get one of those... LOL

Mines a Zotac Infinity Edition, which is a water cooled card, problem is the radiator is simply too thin, so I have to use a Delta fan on it producing some noise @ 3400rpm @ 113cfm, which means the vent has to stay on overnight(the vent from My houses swamp/evaporative cooler), I may need to put in a faster Delta fan @ 3900rpm, but it outputs air at about 190cfm and yes the noise goes up! Though not as much as a 4000rpm Delta would, the 4000rpm fan uses a 4 pin pwm interface and the 3900rpm fan uses a proprietary Dell 5 pin interface, trim off the empty 5th pin and it should work where the 4 pin pwm goes since the pins are the same size and I think their in the same arrangement too, if I'm remembering right. The air cooled version of My card is the Zotac GTX 580 AMP! card(both the AMP! and the IE use the same Bios), it comes in two styles, a two slot design and a 3 slot design, The IE I got for $325.00 and I have two more Zotac Omni Cooling Kits that would make any GTX 480, 570 or 580 a water cooled card(got both of those for about $245.00 w/shipping), though considering what I know, I'd skip the 480 with this cooler, as It will fit, it just barely cools a 580 and a 570, any card has to be what is called a reference design, basically a card designed by Nvidia or this cooler won't fit on a card, look for a link earlier in the thread for the Cooling Configurator to tell what is and what is not a reference card(or Google the term), as that site has lots of pretty pics to illustrate what that idea is.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok I think I found a screw that would do the job on this cooler for the gap that I need so an H70 and the IE radiators will sit side by side with each other. It's a #6 1-3/4" long lag screw for wood, they come in a pack of 8 at the Home Depot for $1.18(plus sales tax here) or $1.27 total, I just have to wait until the 31st to arrive(I'm effectively broke right now). I'd thought about a 2" version which does exist in a 6 pack. But I'll try the shorter 1-3/4" screws first, as I only need to go through the case, into and out of the 38mm fan duct and into the top of the 120x38mm fan which will be secured to the radiator with the stock short machine screws.


1-3/4" #6 lag screw(the 2" version uses the same picture on the website, so displaying that would be a waste of time)

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I've been running the 320.14 Beta driver at 1.013v for 2 days and so far the card seems to like being at such a low voltage, EVGA Precision X v4.10 says in the tool tips that the voltage is 1.0v, the low voltage has meant a maximum gpu temp of 67C, so I think this is what I'll run on the other two cards, when I have the right power supply, which is looking like it may be an OCZ 1250w psu as the psu is 175mm long, just so I can install all 3 IE cards radiators(when I get two more 580 cards or maybe two 570 cards), mainly cause I don't know what the maximum psu length can be with the Zotac Omni Radiator in place in the bottom of the case, I'm hoping the maximum psu size can be 190mm, I know 220mm or longer is too long of course.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok I'm going to get a Coolermaster Silent Pro Hybrid 1300w psu in a few months(Sept 2013), 105A on the 12v rail and it's only 178mm long(7").

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Today I noticed My clock rate on the GTX580 wouldn't go down after a reboot and after Seti had stopped its work for the day, I unplugged this and the clock rate went from 772MHz down to 405MHz and then to 51MHz like it should, I had to get rid of the generic monitor after I'd unplugged the DVI dummy plug(shows up as vga) to get the clock rate to drop, weird.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I'm currently using 301.42 WHQL and I have 301.24 beta ready to replace it, but I'd rather prove that 301.42 works ok under Win7 x64 since this driver covers the GTX580 to GTX690 cards and 301.24 doesn't, I started at 6:32pm, that's just over 6 hours, plus the card is now an EVGA GTX 580SC according to the bios. As I'm looking for stability and not down clocks from 772MHz to 405MHz which I've seen during google searches of various threads outside of Seti...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Well the card made it thru the night without incident, that's day 1, I'm hoping 5 days will show if the card is cured of the random downclocks to 405MHz and My Rac is up too, and is @ 19,603 as I type this.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

As far as I know, current drivers don't need no dummy plugs.
Not since way back.

I have about 8 vga splitters I don't need anymore, if anyone else does.

There WAS a time when you had to fool the drivers into thinking there was a monitor directly attached or they would not load correctly.

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"Freedom is just Chaos, with better lighting." Alan Dean Foster

I happen to know this from experience.

It took WEEKS of frogging around trying to get my first GPU working.
And this was with the 'help' of the top tech dude at EVGA.

And I should clarify......the tech support at EVGA was top notch. They just could not sort this unique situation. Nobody else apparently was running 9 computers thought a router and an 8 port KVM...
At one point, he did ask me politely WTF I was doing with that much computing power online....LOL.

I could not get the drivers to load, and everything they suggested was to no avail.

It was just on a whim that I thought WTF, and bought a 2 way VGA splitter, hoping it might boost the signal enough to get it through my 8 port Hawking KVM.

Turned out to be the right hunch. All rigs now have one, although I suspect I could remove them and be OK at this point.

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"Freedom is just Chaos, with better lighting." Alan Dean Foster

As far as I know, current drivers don't need no dummy plugs.
Not since way back.

I have about 8 vga splitters I don't need anymore, if anyone else does.

There WAS a time when you had to fool the drivers into thinking there was a monitor directly attached or they would not load correctly.

Lets see, I have one dummy plug attached, but its not been active all night long, I shut the plug off around 5 or 6pm yesterday(otherwise the gpu temp would be 10C warmer at idle), the card now has an Evga bios instead of the Zotac bios which from what I've read isn't held in high regard on the net, but since the board is a reference edition that adheres to the spec that Nvidia released or maybe licensed, the difference is mainly cosmetic, a label on a fan shroud and the bios itself, in any case I'm looking for stability and I haven't experimented with the newer drivers and this fully implemented evga bios, the fan setting for example goes from 30% to 100%(the Zotac bios was limiting the fan to 85% max), but being water cooled the fan is not hooked up to the card, although there is an adapter cable or two that would allow the fan to get the voltage from the psu and the card to control the pwm fan and read the rpms as well, if I thought it was important enough I'd buy some, but I don't, not with this fan at least, with a faster 148-190cfm 120x38mm fan, I may want to get the cables and I do have a 190cfm 120x38mm fan, I'm not sure I like the idea of a 3900rpm fan without some ability to slow it down some or at least to monitor the fan. I did have to uninstall a version of the PhysX software that was from a newer driver to make 301.42 work, I did this by finding the correct PhysX uninstaller, as a clean install was not touching the PhysX driver software at all, causing installation errors on 266.58, 275.33 and 301.42, 301.24 would be affected too as it shares the same PhysX software with 301.42.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Vic....
Your adventures in computing...
Way over mine...LOL.

But, I suppose I have to work during the day and don't have all night to think about things to twist and turn.
If something's broken, I can usually get to the point of the matter pretty quick.

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"Freedom is just Chaos, with better lighting." Alan Dean Foster

Vic....
Your adventures in computing...
Way over mine...LOL.

But, I suppose I have to work during the day and don't have all night to think about things to twist and turn.
If something's broken, I can usually get to the point of the matter pretty quick.

Some things are complicated, like the interaction between a cards bios and the driver software, in any case since the problem was spanning temperature and drivers, the only thing in common was the cards bios, and since this was localized to the card and its gpu, I'm pretty confident that this card is working correctly now, but I want to wait a week before I know for sure.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's