Well I got the 1350w Enermax psu in the house and It's about as heavy a psu as I've ever seen and it's totally modular too, everything is included. It was tested before going out of course, until My swamp cooler belt is replaced It'll stay in the box. Of course I have to take the Grill off of the psu as that Grill forces the psu up and out of alignment with the holes for the psu in the back of the Cooler Master HAF-932, I'd first noticed this with the Enermax 1050w Reveloution85+ psu that I have, It won't hurt anything, it's just a pain in the butt.

Here's a close up of the psu, still smells new too, the psu has a really thick mains cable, a bit thicker than the ST1500 too.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Here's the pic of the HAF-X case for the Asus Rampage 3 Extreme motherboard up on the counter, so far Grace has looked it over and that's it, I tried taking out one of the 6 drive bay covers, but couldn't, so I'll have to look that up as they don't seem to work like in the HAF-932. It came with 3 fans and a few other items, but no casters, thankfully Cooler Master sells those as part of a kit.

I received my HAF-X last week and thankfully it did come with the castors included.

I may get the time to move my 2500K setup over to it next week.

Cheers.

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On August 1st I'll be buying an EK Rampage 3 Extreme water block for the Asus Rampage 3 Extreme motherboard for $159.99 which includes shipping and tracking, these 5 pics are what the seller sent Me.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

My GPU's each have their own radiator, and are running at 55-56°C at the moment. My CPU is water cooled, but instead of a radiator, I use an aquarium chiller. That keeps my coolant at about 16°C, and my CPU at about 57°C.

Steve

It's great eye candy for sure. I have said this before. Jeez I'm just getting started in SETI, and I started out with an old Dell Dimension 3000. It was broke,but I brouight it back to life. I had to put a new wireless card in it also. It was crunching slow,and then the wifi card shorted. The guy at the shop gave me a better one a TP-LINK TL-WN851N. Anyway I'm running seti home it but since the pc is old ,really cant upgrade it. Its running x86 intel celeron, with a built in gpu arrrrrr. I actually have two of these pc's. I've been wondering if there was anyway to connect them together to crunch more numbers.

I'm also running my old dell Inspirion with windows vista, and a Intel duo core 2 ghz chip. It's a lot faster than this old bird, but I worry about heat. It stays pretty warm.

Anyway I love that rig of yours, and maybe someday I will be able to build something that will find ET. Ha Ha.

Wouldn't it be great if this old Pc found ET?

Well the EK Rampage 3 Extreme full cover water block for the Asus Rampage 3 Extreme motherboard is on it's way here, I paid the guy $159.99 for it and He's sending it by Priority Mail(I'm tracking it now), Wow, between shopping locally for Food, & Gas, I'm shopped out and exhausted... It's warm & humid now, warm soon to be replaced by HOT...

On August 1st I'll be buying an EK Rampage 3 Extreme water block for the Asus Rampage 3 Extreme motherboard for $159.99 which includes shipping and tracking, these 5 pics are what the seller sent Me.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok I went to the Post Office and picked up the EK R3E motherboard water block, it looks complete. The box even has a Thank You note attached.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok I put the 1350w psu in the case and vacuumed the video card while I was at it, those 8pin pcie cables at the video card end are hard as heck to get in place, so that's done. I started this around 4:49pm and got the PC running again at 7:49pm, 3 hours to uninstall an 850w and to install the 1350w psu, not like there is a lot of cables really, it is just not so easy for Me to do anymore.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok I've been doing some thinking while I wait to buy the 1600w psu for the Pegasus, as it's free, I'm looking at 4-EVGA Hydro Coppers, but a combo of 2-HC's and 2-DD's would possibly work together as I've crudely drawn below...


DD's are Danger Den Blocks, although EK would work as well...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Hmm, not sure what you are thinking there Vic.
In cooling the best way is often the simplest, but there are a few rules:
First is, don't try to cooling things in series unless you have gigantic coolant flows in relation to the amount of heat being drawn from the earlier stages. While there is more pipework in a parallel configuration it is well worth it in terms of coolant flow temperatures, and cooling on the "downstream" devices.

Next is radiators - make sure they have enough cooling capacity, looking at the figures a single '590 will be dumping about 360W, so you will need to make sure your radiators are capable of dumping in excess of 1400W into the air (nice room heaters for me in the winter, but I wouldn't like to be in your mobile in the summer....) with a sensible temperature drop, so the coolant is "cold" on exit (obviously in a domestic situation "cold" is rather limited when the ambient is near our target temperature).

As for your layout (I'll assume you've got a big enough single radiator, not one rad/block). Out of the rad split into four feeds to the cooler blocks, feeding water to the leg of the "T"s, not across the arm (most of the one to four manifolds I've looked at are very poorly designed, more for looks than function). Keep the pipework as big as possible - this way you maximise the flow for a given pump. (Another advantage of big pipes is it is a bit easier to get rid of air bubbles).
Also try to arrange thins so that the coolant goes down to the blocks and up to the radiator - again its easier to get rid of air bubbles without having trapped air (of course you will have a header tank just before the radiator, on the "hot" side won't you...)

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Hmm, not sure what you are thinking there Vic.
In cooling the best way is often the simplest, but there are a few rules:
First is, don't try to cooling things in series unless you have gigantic coolant flows in relation to the amount of heat being drawn from the earlier stages. While there is more pipework in a parallel configuration it is well worth it in terms of coolant flow temperatures, and cooling on the "downstream" devices.

Next is radiators - make sure they have enough cooling capacity, looking at the figures a single '590 will be dumping about 360W, so you will need to make sure your radiators are capable of dumping in excess of 1400W into the air (nice room heaters for me in the winter, but I wouldn't like to be in your mobile in the summer....) with a sensible temperature drop, so the coolant is "cold" on exit (obviously in a domestic situation "cold" is rather limited when the ambient is near our target temperature).

As for your layout (I'll assume you've got a big enough single radiator, not one rad/block). Out of the rad split into four feeds to the cooler blocks, feeding water to the leg of the "T"s, not across the arm (most of the one to four manifolds I've looked at are very poorly designed, more for looks than function). Keep the pipework as big as possible - this way you maximise the flow for a given pump. (Another advantage of big pipes is it is a bit easier to get rid of air bubbles).
Also try to arrange thins so that the coolant goes down to the blocks and up to the radiator - again its easier to get rid of air bubbles without having trapped air (of course you will have a header tank just before the radiator, on the "hot" side won't you...)

I was going to go with the following:

3 radiators, a 200x400mm, a200x200mm and a 140x420mm(all 3 are Phobya),
10' of 1/2"ID line(DangerDen Black UV DreamFlex),
a dual 5.25" drive bay reservoir/pump(XSPC) which will be below one or two of the rads, the 3rd will be below the reservoir(200x200),
the cpu and motherboard are to be cooled by EK blocks that I have...

This is what I was looking at installing.

An alternate radiator setup would be maybe like so:

3 radiators, a 200x448x36mm(Phobya), a 140x540x60mm(Coolgate, 870ml) and a 140x140x60mm(Coolgate, 381ml)...
I'm not sure I'd need the 140x140 radiator or not.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Hmm, not sure what you are thinking there Vic.
In cooling the best way is often the simplest, but there are a few rules:
First is, don't try to cooling things in series unless you have gigantic coolant flows in relation to the amount of heat being drawn from the earlier stages. While there is more pipework in a parallel configuration it is well worth it in terms of coolant flow temperatures, and cooling on the "downstream" devices.

Next is radiators - make sure they have enough cooling capacity, looking at the figures a single '590 will be dumping about 360W, so you will need to make sure your radiators are capable of dumping in excess of 1400W into the air (nice room heaters for me in the winter, but I wouldn't like to be in your mobile in the summer....) with a sensible temperature drop, so the coolant is "cold" on exit (obviously in a domestic situation "cold" is rather limited when the ambient is near our target temperature).

As for your layout (I'll assume you've got a big enough single radiator, not one rad/block). Out of the rad split into four feeds to the cooler blocks, feeding water to the leg of the "T"s, not across the arm (most of the one to four manifolds I've looked at are very poorly designed, more for looks than function). Keep the pipework as big as possible - this way you maximise the flow for a given pump. (Another advantage of big pipes is it is a bit easier to get rid of air bubbles).
Also try to arrange thins so that the coolant goes down to the blocks and up to the radiator - again its easier to get rid of air bubbles without having trapped air (of course you will have a header tank just before the radiator, on the "hot" side won't you...)

I was going to go with the following:

3 radiators, a 200x400mm, a200x200mm and a 140x420mm(all 3 are Phobya),
10' of 1/2"ID line(DangerDen Black UV DreamFlex),
a dual 5.25" drive bay reservoir/pump(XSPC) which will be below one or two of the rads, the 3rd will be below the reservoir(200x200),
the cpu and motherboard are to be cooled by EK blocks that I have...

This is what I was looking at installing.

An alternate radiator setup would be maybe like so:

3 radiators, a 200x448x36mm(Phobya), a 140x540x60mm(Coolgate, 870ml) and a 140x140x60mm(Coolgate, 381ml)...
I'm not sure I'd need the 140x140 radiator or not.

I'd noticed elsewhere that with a HAF-X case this loop would work:
Res > Pump > CPU > Motherboard > GPU(s) > Rad > Res
I added the Motherboard from a loop I saw there and made GPU into GPU(s).

A new radiator arrangement:
2 radiators, a 120x360x60mm(Coolgate, 400ml), a 140x540x60mm(Coolgate, 870ml)
The coolgate radiators are triple row and I already have a 120x360 coolgate radiator, the 140x540 radiator would be mounted outside the the case on a Koolance expandable external radiator mount with a 140mm to 120mm Koolance adapter plate(sold out, I know where I can get one).
So what do Ya think Rob Smith?

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Putting your header BELOW the radiators is a sure fire wy to have problems with air bubbles getting trapped.

There is probably a good reason for you having such a mix of radiators, but in general it is a bad idea - the coolant will be biased in favour of the radiator with the lowest internal resistance, which may not be the one with the greatest cooling capacity. Since neither Koolance, or Phobya provide any flow data for their radiators it is impossible to say if a mixture of three radiators will work properly or not.

Accepting that there may be good reasons for wanting to mix and match radiator sizes (such as that is all that will fit the frame), think again, you are spending a lot of money on GPUs and it would be a great shame to see them not working to their fullest because the cooling system was wrong at a basic level, and just now you are heading into the boon-docks.

Thinking about your situation, with 4 GPU, a motherboard, and CPU to cool I would (indeed will) be going for a very simple solution - a big single radiator for the GPUs and a smaller one for the CPU/motherboard. If, for the GPUs, I can't get enough capacity from a single radiator it will be a couple of radiators in parallel.

CPU/motherboard cooling combinations are well known and much lower heat so less of an issue with the different cooling demands and flow resistances.

Another thing, make sure you are pushing the coolant around, starting from the header tank, through the pump, then to the cooling blocks, to the radiators, then back to the header tank. This reduces the chance of what are called "cavitation bubbles" and these are a big enemy of cooling systems.

---

Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Hmmm.
Don't heat travel naturally UP?

Best not argue with mother nature.

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"Freedom is just Chaos, with better lighting." Alan Dean Foster

Rob the Koolance part is a mount, not a radiator, I also have the Coolgate Radiators which are triple pass radiators, most are I think either double or single pass.

1-120x360x60 Coolgate Radiator
1-140x540x60 Coolgate Radiator

I already have the 120x360 radiator.

Header=reservoir...


Bleeder screw...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Rob the Koolance part is a mount, not a radiator, I also have the Coolgate Radiators which are triple pass radiators, most are I think either double or single pass.

1-120x360x60 Coolgate Radiator
1-140x540x60 Coolgate Radiator

I already have the 120x360 radiator.

Header=reservoir...


Bleeder screw...

How's this Rob?

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok here are the specs for the PC I'm slowly building, the GTX590 cards are duplicated as I'm not sure which I'll be getting and the flow pattern looks like this so far...

Pump/reservoir > CPU waterblock > Motherboard waterblock> GPU waterblocks > Radiator(540) > Radiator(360) > Pump/reservoir

[Cooler Master HAF-X Case(Pegasus)
[ASUS Rampage 3 Extreme motherboard
[EK Rampage 3 Extreme full cover water block
[EK Red 1366 Cpu water block
[i7-940 @ 2.93GHz cpu
[XSPC X2O DC-750 - Dual 5.25" Bay-Res Pump/Reservoir Combo
Bitspower Fittings(Not compression) to fit 1/2"ID Tubing
DangerDen Black UV DreamFlex 1/2" ID Tubing
[Coolgate 120x360 radiator
Coolgate 140x540 radiator
Koolance external radiator support for 140x540 radiator
[3-Koolance 120mm 108cfm fans
8-Akasa Viper 140mm 110cfm fans
Corsair Black 12GB (3 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 ram 9-9-9-24 timing
4-EVGA Hydro Copper GTX590 cards or
4-EVGA Classified 1596 or 1598 GTX590 cards
4-XSPC Razor GTX590 - Full Cover VGA Water-Block for Nvidia GTX590
Lepa Gold 1600W psu
DEMCiflex Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Custom 4 Piece Set for CM HAF-X
[WD velociraptor 250GB hdd
[Sata DVD/CD-rom Drive
D-link SuperG 108Mbps usb 2.0 wireless device w/encryption
[Windows 7 Premium x64, service pack 1
[Nvidia Driver 305.53 x64
[LG W2053TX Monitor (1600x900)
Iogear Dual DVI-Monitor/usb/audio switcher.

[ Denotes what I have already.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ignoring, in the most, your parts list, think about what happens when you cool something - something else gets hotter.
Passing the coolant through the CPU will increase its temperature a bit, now you are going to pass this "warmed up" water through your GPUs, in series by all accounts, the first GPU will have "not cold" coolant, the next will have "fairly warm" coolant, the third "warm", and the final one "getting quite hot" coolant - and you expect all the GPUs to be at the same temperature - they will not, the first WILL be cooled quite well, but the final one in the chain will be a lot less cool, indeed could be "quite warm".
Your parts list does raise a few questions - you have already decided on the radiators (perhaps this is driven by finances, but the rest of the rig is 2high cost"), why not think about how you are going to keep everything nice and cool?

First, split the CPU/motherboard cooling from the GPUs. It the figures I've seen are anywhere near right, then the CPU plus motherboard will be dissipating about 300W - which is not far short of one GPU (350W). It deserves its own cooling system, so use what you've already got for that. Now look at the cooling requirements of the GPUs, each of which will dissipate about 350W, rather than having 4 on one cooling system, split them into two pairs, each pair with its own cooling system - within each pair have the two GPU in parallel, this way all your GPU will be at about the same temperature (I would suggest that the centre two GPU will be at a slightly higher temperature than the outer two, but there is little we can do about that without some very clever kit).
Now look at your shopping list, you will end up with three pumps, three radiators, one, or at the most two, header tanks (this is one thing that can be common between the systems (go for separate pumps, that way if a pump dies you only have to swap a pump and not loose the whole system while your-wallet/the-delivery-man come to life, and a very well cooled system.


(btw - I consider 1kw as a very small cooling problem, as most of the time in the past I was working on multi-MW dissipation systems, but have seen multi-million$ plant brought to its knees because someone didn't cool a vital bit properly, they just stuck a couple of cooling radiators on the side and hoped for the best, it took weeks of hard work to sort out)

---

Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Ignoring, in the most, your parts list, think about what happens when you cool something - something else gets hotter.
Passing the coolant through the CPU will increase its temperature a bit, now you are going to pass this "warmed up" water through your GPUs, in series by all accounts, the first GPU will have "not cold" coolant, the next will have "fairly warm" coolant, the third "warm", and the final one "getting quite hot" coolant - and you expect all the GPUs to be at the same temperature - they will not, the first WILL be cooled quite well, but the final one in the chain will be a lot less cool, indeed could be "quite warm".
Your parts list does raise a few questions - you have already decided on the radiators (perhaps this is driven by finances, but the rest of the rig is 2high cost"), why not think about how you are going to keep everything nice and cool?

First, split the CPU/motherboard cooling from the GPUs. If the figures I've seen are anywhere near right, then the CPU plus motherboard will be dissipating about 300W - which is not far short of one GPU (350W). It deserves its own cooling system, so use what you've already got for that. Now look at the cooling requirements of the GPUs, each of which will dissipate about 350W, rather than having 4 on one cooling system, split them into two pairs, each pair with its own cooling system - within each pair have the two GPU in parallel, this way all your GPU will be at about the same temperature (I would suggest that the centre two GPU will be at a slightly higher temperature than the outer two, but there is little we can do about that without some very clever kit).
Now look at your shopping list, you will end up with three pumps, three radiators, one, or at the most two, header tanks (this is one thing that can be common between the systems (go for separate pumps, that way if a pump dies you only have to swap a pump and not loose the whole system while your-wallet/the-delivery-man come to life, and a very well cooled system.


(btw - I consider 1kw as a very small cooling problem, as most of the time in the past I was working on multi-MW dissipation systems, but have seen multi-million$ plant brought to its knees because someone didn't cool a vital bit properly, they just stuck a couple of cooling radiators on the side and hoped for the best, it took weeks of hard work to sort out)

Ok, I could add a Koolance Dual bay Reservoir(header) that can do 2 pumps and somehow add another 540 radiator for a total of two 540 radiators, 1 radiator for per 2 GTX590 cards, sort of like what SciManSteve did, but not to His extreme, If I did the cooling like He did on His two 480 cards there would be four 540 radiators in place, somehow I'd like to avoid going to that extreme, if I can. On cost I'm not worried, since the major cost is the four GTX590 cards and their water blocks.

My radiators are 60mm thick, Steves are about 30mm thick.

I'm fortunate that the Rampage 3 Extreme motherboard can shut off power to each of the pcie slots by means of a slide switch for each pcie slot on the motherboard, if that were needed that is.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

The size of radiators helps, but given you suffer very high ambient temperatures I'd go for as large a collection as I could, that way even in the height of summer you will get a reasonable degree of cooling.

Compare your setup to the one I am planning - three '690s, each with its own radiator system, and another radiator system to look after the CPU/motherboard (and possibly the RAM, I'll have to look at RAM temperatures). My ambient is a lot lower than yours. (Although I can get the office up to over 30C <90F> if I don't open a window, so is the potential thermal dissipation <only about 1kW against your 1.5kW>, but I want those chips to be as cool as possible.

---

Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

The size of radiators helps, but given you suffer very high ambient temperatures I'd go for as large a collection as I could, that way even in the height of summer you will get a reasonable degree of cooling.

Compare your setup to the one I am planning - three '690s, each with its own radiator system, and another radiator system to look after the CPU/motherboard (and possibly the RAM, I'll have to look at RAM temperatures). My ambient is a lot lower than yours. (Although I can get the office up to over 30C <90F> if I don't open a window, so is the potential thermal dissipation <only about 1kW against your 1.5kW>, but I want those chips to be as cool as possible.

So I'll have to look into some brackets or something to mount the radiators, at least for the 540's, the 360 can be mounted inside the case like normal. Plus some cat proof Split Loom Tubing, which is easy to find online...

Night time is the best time around here to run something like this in the summer, at least until I can get a real room air conditioner and have one installed, maybe, during the winter here it gets cold enough to run this during the day.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's