the way thing have been going around here a ZERO Watt power supply will be perfect!!!

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Yeah I like to buy psus with some room for expansion in mind too, After all what PC stays the same forever? None that I'd build. OCZ(PCP&C), Enermax, Corsair, Silverstone, Thermaltake(as long as It's not really made by Thermaltake), etc are what I like in psus.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

the way thing have been going around here a ZERO Watt power supply will be perfect!!!

Oh wow, That could be made of any old type of rock You want to name, Marble, Granite, Schist, Quartz, etc. Just as an example of course.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

@ Chris S

Nvidia say your card needs a 450W PSU.

Nvidia PSU

I would think that an upmarket 650W PSU from the likes of Antec would suffice.

I have had this ULTRA 650 watt atx power supply output
+5v @32a and +3.3v @ 24a =190w
+12v @38a = 456w I think this was were it burned out not enough watts
-12v @0.6a = 7.2w
+5vsb @ 2.5a = 12.5w
My new one is
Cooler Master GX Series 750W ATX Power Supply RS750-ACAAE3-US
Sold by: TigerDirect, Inc.
single rail
+3.3v @ 25a and +5v @25a = 150w
+12v @ 60a = 720w notice the beefier wattage this plugs into my gtx460 card
-12v @ 0.5a = 6w
+5vsb @ 2.5a = 12.5w

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@ Chris S

Nvidia say your card needs a 450W PSU.

Nvidia PSU

I would think that an upmarket 650W PSU from the likes of Antec would suffice.

I have had this ULTRA 650 watt atx power supply output
+5v @32a and +3.3v @ 24a =190w
+12v @38a = 456w I think this was were it burned out not enough watts
-12v @0.6a = 7.2w
+5vsb @ 2.5a = 12.5w
My new one is
Cooler Master GX Series 750W ATX Power Supply RS750-ACAAE3-US
Sold by: TigerDirect, Inc.
single rail
+3.3v @ 25a and +5v @25a = 150w
+12v @ 60a = 720w notice the beefier wattage this plugs into my gtx460 card
-12v @ 0.5a = 6w
+5vsb @ 2.5a = 12.5w

Much better.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Inng this thread, I've nobody has mentioned AMPS. The amount of amps that the psu is reated for is very important. I had to upgrade my psu to a large one because the psu did not have the minimum a the GTX275 card that I wanted to install. I upgraded to an Ultra 4x 1200 watt psu for the follfowing reasons all of which allowed for growth: 1) It gave me amps greater than required at the time, 2) moduler-- I only use the cables that are required, allowing for better management.

Whateve psu that you get, make sure that you have enough AMPS, allow for growth, and by all means make sure it is MODULER.

I avoid modular at all costs. The last thing I need to deal with years down the road is power issues because of failing connection points and/or possible oxidation.

Unfortunate too, since modular seems all the rage these days.

Inng this thread, I've nobody has mentioned AMPS. The amount of amps that the psu is reated for is very important. I had to upgrade my psu to a large one because the psu did not have the minimum a the GTX275 card that I wanted to install. I upgraded to an Ultra 4x 1200 watt psu for the follfowing reasons all of which allowed for growth: 1) It gave me amps greater than required at the time, 2) moduler-- I only use the cables that are required, allowing for better management.

Whateve psu that you get, make sure that you have enough AMPS, allow for growth, and by all means make sure it is MODULER.

Watts=Volts*Amps.

So it has been addressed, indirectly.

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Janice

I avoid modular at all costs. The last thing I need to deal with years down the road is power issues because of failing connection points and/or possible oxidation.

I would think that rather unlikely in modern 21C power supplies.

Why? Have they finally changed the laws of physics and the conductors of electricity to avoid failure points and oxidation?

My friend's recent purchase of an OCZ 700W PSU didn't seem to indicate otherwise.

Unfortunate too, since modular seems all the rage these days.

Perhaps there might be a good reason for that.

Marketing taking advantage of people's ignorance. Just because something is popular, doesn't mean it's good.

79 gold stays pure
47 silver oxidizes
29 copper oxidizes
28 nickel
26 iron/steel oxidizes(as an example)
13 Aluminum

Any other electrical conductors used in PCs these days?

This is where I got the info that I've listed above: Periodic Table of Elements: Sorted by Electrical Conductivity and here's the wiki on Nickel...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Copper is most often used because it is easy to work with, is relatively cheap, and conducts electricity sufficiently. And it oxidizes easily.

I avoid modular at all costs. The last thing I need to deal with years down the road is power issues because of failing connection points and/or possible oxidation.

I would think that rather unlikely in modern 21C power supplies.

Unfortunate too, since modular seems all the rage these days.

Perhaps there might be a good reason for that.

I don't concern myself with failing connnection points and/or possible oxidation. All three of my systems have ULTRA PSUs, which like most such products have a limited warranty. If you register any of Ultra's products on-line you get a FREE LIFETIME warranty.

Watts=Volts*Amps.
So it has been addressed, indirectly

I am aware of Ohms law, but with respect I would disagree. There are 550W PSU out there with a 20A rating, and other 550W ones with a 30A rating, a significant difference in real life performance. You get what you pay for.[/quote]


This is the exact reason why I had to upgrade my PSU. Had the wattage, but not the amps. Not all PSUs of the same wattage have the same amperage.

79 gold stays pure
47 silver oxidizes
29 copper oxidizes
28 nickel
26 iron/steel oxidizes(as an example)
13 Aluminum

Any other electrical conductors used in PCs these days?
...

Tin plated brass in all the Molex connectors.

                                                                  Joe

79 gold stays pure
47 silver oxidizes
29 copper oxidizes
28 nickel
26 iron/steel oxidizes(as an example)
13 Aluminum

Any other electrical conductors used in PCs these days?
...

Tin plated brass in all the Molex connectors.

                                                                  Joe

Napoleon had a problem with Tin buttons as the Russian Winter made them disintegrate over time, But that's Tin Disease...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I don't concern myself with failing connnection points and/or possible oxidation. All three of my systems have ULTRA PSUs, which like most such products have a limited warranty. If you register any of Ultra's products on-line you get a FREE LIFETIME warranty.

The best warranty is the one you don't have to use. ;-)

Unfortunate too, since modular seems all the rage these days.

Perhaps there might be a good reason for that.

Marketing taking advantage of people's ignorance. Just because something is popular, doesn't mean it's good.

Motion seconded.

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Grant
Darwin NT

Copper is most often used because it is easy to work with, is relatively cheap, and conducts electricity sufficiently.

By sufficiently, it's second only to Silver- which is the best.
Some info.

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Grant
Darwin NT

This is the exact reason why I had to upgrade my PSU. Had the wattage, but not the amps. Not all PSUs of the same wattage have the same amperage.

Unfortunately what you're describing is advertising B$.
There is no standard for the rating of PSUs. An honestly rated PSU (say 500W) is 500W with the load on the 5V, 12V & 3.3v rails. Due to the lack of standards, there is no requirement for the ratio of power supplied by each rail.
eg one 500W PSU might be supplying 60A on the 12V rail, and 40A on the 5V rail. Another might supply 40A on the 12V & 60A on the 5V rail.

The worst ones are the ones that give their power rating, but for the total maximum of all the rails combined- which is a load of bollocks as no PSU is rated to supply full load on all rails simutaneously.

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Grant
Darwin NT

If you register any of Ultra's products on-line you get a FREE LIFETIME warranty.

Check the fine print.
I used to be in the electronics repair industry a many companies claimed "Lifetime Warranties". In actual fact they guaranteed the product for it's designed life time. Many products were expected to last 5 years, & that's how long they would guarantee it for. If it dies after 6, tough luck.

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Grant
Darwin NT

There are many variations on the same thing. Lightbulbs: long guarantees knowing full well you would forget when it was last put in. Shock absorbers: most people sell the car before they go out.

"lifetime" is seldom that long.

I doubt a 5 year old power supply would have the leads let alone the power output I would require.

Ahh well it makes a great selling point

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Janice