Getting the most Seti cpu production out of your Amd 7 2600/2700 cpu

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Profile Keith Myers Special Project $250 donor
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Message 2006344 - Posted: 8 Aug 2019, 16:58:19 UTC - in response to Message 2006273.  

Well if you get the C7H and any BIOS version from 1001 to the latest, it has a WMI interface to export all the sensor data. There is a driver called asus-wmi-sensor that grabs that data for display. It displays the same exact data that you would see in Windows. This is the sensor data from this C7H daily driver.

keith@Serenity:~$ sensors -u
asuswmisensors-isa-0000
Adapter: ISA adapter
CPU Core Voltage:
in0_input: 1.079
-edit- to delete long list for reply

asus-isa-0000
Adapter: ISA adapter
cpu_fan:
fan1_input: 0.000

keith@Serenity:~$



I get

tom@EJS-GIFT:~$ sensors -u
k10temp-pci-00c3
Adapter: PCI adapter
temp1:
temp1_input: 95.750
temp1_max: 70.000

asus-isa-0000
Adapter: ISA adapter
cpu_fan:
fan1_input: 0.000

That is just with the standard k10temp driver reporting. All you get is temp. You need to download and install the asus-wmi-sensor driver from github.
https://github.com/electrified/asus-wmi-sensors
Just follow the instructions.
Clone the git repository: git clone https://github.com/electrified/asus-wmi-sensors.git

Build the module sudo make dkms

Insert the module sudo modprobe asus-wmi-sensors

Run sensors and you should see a asuswmisensors-isa-0000 device and readouts as you see in the UEFI interface.

You need to be on a BIOS of at least 1002. I found 1002 very stable. I never moved past that one until I needed the new BIOS' for Ryzen 3000. I had heard that BIOS 1201 was also very stable and gave the possibility of better memory clocks. I would steer clear of the latest BIOS' for Ryzen 3000 because they are very buggy.
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Message 2006346 - Posted: 8 Aug 2019, 17:07:10 UTC - in response to Message 2006330.  

Go into the DIgi+/VRM menu and set the LLC to 3. Set the power delivery for Optimized for both cpu and SoC. Set the current delivery for 120% for both cpu and SoC.

If you want I can send you the .CMO profile file for my 1002 BIOS 2700X system which is running at 4025Mhz and 3466CL14 memory fast timings. Voltage is on Auto and only needs 1.34V. Memory is using one of the Stilts's memory presets and then further tweaks with the Ram Calculator. I would say you need liquid cooling for any sustained all-core OC greater than 4Ghz.
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Message 2006357 - Posted: 8 Aug 2019, 18:44:03 UTC - in response to Message 2006346.  

Go into the DIgi+/VRM menu and set the LLC to 3. Set the power delivery for Optimized for both cpu and SoC. Set the current delivery for 120% for both cpu and SoC.

If you want I can send you the .CMO profile file for my 1002 BIOS 2700X system which is running at 4025Mhz and 3466CL14 memory fast timings. Voltage is on Auto and only needs 1.34V. Memory is using one of the Stilts's memory presets and then further tweaks with the Ram Calculator. I would say you need liquid cooling for any sustained all-core OC greater than 4Ghz.


I will take a look at the settings because while some of them make sense, the others have to be parameters I haven't understood yet. But I am pretty sure I will need a better cpu cooler.

I just dropped it back to 3.7Ghz and LLC 1 in hopes of getting something that will run all night :)

Tom
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Message 2006358 - Posted: 8 Aug 2019, 18:46:32 UTC - in response to Message 2006344.  


You need to be on a BIOS of at least 1002. I found 1002 very stable. I never moved past that one until I needed the new BIOS' for Ryzen 3000. I had heard that BIOS 1201 was also very stable and gave the possibility of better memory clocks. I would steer clear of the latest BIOS' for Ryzen 3000 because they are very buggy.


Just upgraded to 1201 which appears to be the last update before the Ryzen 3000 updates. It didn't help with the gpu lane shortage. So hoping the next hardware parts do.

Thank you for the directions. I will get on it tomorrow, maybe.

Tom
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Message 2006359 - Posted: 8 Aug 2019, 19:01:36 UTC - in response to Message 2006357.  

Go into the DIgi+/VRM menu and set the LLC to 3. Set the power delivery for Optimized for both cpu and SoC. Set the current delivery for 120% for both cpu and SoC.

If you want I can send you the .CMO profile file for my 1002 BIOS 2700X system which is running at 4025Mhz and 3466CL14 memory fast timings. Voltage is on Auto and only needs 1.34V. Memory is using one of the Stilts's memory presets and then further tweaks with the Ram Calculator. I would say you need liquid cooling for any sustained all-core OC greater than 4Ghz.


I will take a look at the settings because while some of them make sense, the others have to be parameters I haven't understood yet. But I am pretty sure I will need a better cpu cooler.

I just dropped it back to 3.7Ghz and LLC 1 in hopes of getting something that will run all night :)

Tom


Ok, got everything applied for running at 3.7GHz.
I THINK when you said "power delivery" it was hiding under "phase control" at least there was an "optimize" in there so I am hoping those are the right ones.

Hope it will run all night.
I will look at ordering an Nocutua (sp) tomorrow.

Nap and then off to work.

Tom
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Message 2006469 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 13:00:49 UTC - in response to Message 2006359.  


Ok, got everything applied for running at 3.7GHz.
I THINK when you said "power delivery" it was hiding under "phase control" at least there was an "optimize" in there so I am hoping those are the right ones.

Hope it will run all night.
I will look at ordering an Nocutua (sp) tomorrow.

Nap and then off to work.

Tom


It ran all night w/o a break. Hmmm..... Maybe it is time to start walking the multiplier up to see how hot it gets.

Tom
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Message 2006470 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 13:06:39 UTC - in response to Message 2004721.  
Last modified: 9 Aug 2019, 13:07:50 UTC

https://www.newegg.com/asrock-fatal1ty-x470-gaming-k4/p/N82E16813157836?Item=N82E16813157836

This AM4 MB appears to have 6 slots. Can anyone confirm it will run 9 gpus? If yes, it might be a great replacement for my Biostar MB.

Tom


The listing says Ryzen 3000 ready. Does this still need a BIOS update or will it work out of the box? I'd like to buy it along with a 3900x CPU but don't have an older CPU to upgrade the bios.
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Message 2006477 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 13:37:12 UTC - in response to Message 2006470.  

https://www.newegg.com/asrock-fatal1ty-x470-gaming-k4/p/N82E16813157836?Item=N82E16813157836

This AM4 MB appears to have 6 slots. Can anyone confirm it will run 9 gpus? If yes, it might be a great replacement for my Biostar MB.

Tom


The listing says Ryzen 3000 ready. Does this still need a BIOS update or will it work out of the box? I'd like to buy it along with a 3900x CPU but don't have an older CPU to upgrade the bios.


A review said the above MB runs conventional production slower than other MB's. So that may apply to Seti too. It has two M.2's so you could use M.2 to riser card adapters to (probably) run two more gpus. A visual inspection of the backplate photo shows "no" flash bios button. So it may not be possible to update the bios without a bootable cpu.

I have a 6 slot MB that successfully runs 7 gpus with the Ryzen 3000 bios installed (Asrock B450 Pro4). I don't know if I recommend this MB but it is running a Amd 2600 right now. No flash bios button.

My Crosshair 7 Hero motherboard has a "flash bios" button on the MB. I believe it will update a bios without having a cpu installed. Mine did not have the Ryzen 3000 bios installed. If you do update to the Ryzen 3000 bios, be prepared for random overheating events on the Crosshair. The bios has a bug currently that causes all the fans to stop causing the overheating crash.
The work around currently is to plug the fans directly into the PSU (may require some custom cabling).

A Ryzen 3900x cpu will run very hot. Make sure you have a robust X470 chipset with robust VRM cooling.
I saw an article on recommenced "X470" chipset MB's for the 3900x. I think it was posted via Newegg but I found it via Google. I would use that list as your short list for 3900x cpus. Found it: https://www.newegg.com/insider/9-best-x470-motherboards-amd-next-gen-ryzen-cpu/

Tom
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"If its Tourist Season why can't we shoot them?" (another bumper sticker)
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Message 2006479 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 13:47:33 UTC - in response to Message 2006344.  
Last modified: 9 Aug 2019, 13:51:23 UTC


That is just with the standard k10temp driver reporting. All you get is temp. You need to download and install the asus-wmi-sensor driver from github.
https://github.com/electrified/asus-wmi-sensors
Just follow the instructions.
Clone the git repository: git clone https://github.com/electrified/asus-wmi-sensors.git

Build the module sudo make dkms

Insert the module sudo modprobe asus-wmi-sensors

Run sensors and you should see a asuswmisensors-isa-0000 device and readouts as you see in the UEFI interface.

You need to be on a BIOS of at least 1002. I found 1002 very stable. I never moved past that one until I needed the new BIOS' for Ryzen 3000. I had heard that BIOS 1201 was also very stable and gave the possibility of better memory clocks. I would steer clear of the latest BIOS' for Ryzen 3000 because they are very buggy.


tom@EJS-GIFT:~$ git clone https://github.com/electrified/asus-wmi-sensors.git
Cloning into 'asus-wmi-sensors'...
remote: Enumerating objects: 42, done.
remote: Counting objects: 100% (42/42), done.
remote: Compressing objects: 100% (29/29), done.
remote: Total 148 (delta 25), reused 25 (delta 13), pack-reused 106
Receiving objects: 100% (148/148), 44.45 KiB | 968.00 KiB/s, done.
Resolving deltas: 100% (86/86), done.
tom@EJS-GIFT:~$ sudo make dkms
make: *** No rule to make target 'dkms'.  Stop.
tom@EJS-GIFT:~$ 


Ok, got standard git installed then did the above. What did I miss?
Ah, missed cd into the sub-directory. Make is running now.
tom@EJS-GIFT:~/asus-wmi-sensors$ sudo modprobe asus-wmi-sensors
tom@EJS-GIFT:~/asus-wmi-sensors$ sensors
asuswmisensors-isa-0000
Adapter: ISA adapter
CPU Core Voltage:         +1.24 V  
CPU SOC Voltage:          +1.12 V  
DRAM Voltage:             +1.35 V  
VDDP Voltage:             +0.44 V  
1.8V PLL Voltage:         +1.85 V  
+12V Voltage:            +11.94 V  
+5V Voltage:              +4.82 V  
3VSB Voltage:             +3.36 V  
VBAT Voltage:             +3.23 V  
AVCC3 Voltage:            +3.36 V  
SB 1.05V Voltage:         +1.07 V  
CPU Core Voltage:         +1.25 V  
CPU SOC Voltage:          +1.13 V  
DRAM Voltage:             +1.36 V  
CPU Fan:                 2490 RPM
Chassis Fan 1:              0 RPM
Chassis Fan 2:              0 RPM
Chassis Fan 3:              0 RPM
HAMP Fan:                   0 RPM
Water Pump:                 0 RPM
CPU OPT:                    0 RPM
Water Flow:                 0 RPM
AIO Pump:                   0 RPM
CPU Temperature:          +92.0°C  
CPU Socket Temperature:   +65.0°C  
Motherboard Temperature:  +32.0°C  
Chipset Temperature:      +48.0°C  
Tsensor 1 Temperature:   +216.0°C  
CPU VRM Temperature:      +50.0°C  
Water In:                +216.0°C  
Water Out:               +216.0°C  
CPU VRM Output Current:  +83.00 A  

k10temp-pci-00c3
Adapter: PCI adapter
temp1:        +92.6°C  (high = +70.0°C)

asus-isa-0000
Adapter: ISA adapter
cpu_fan:        0 RPM

tom@EJS-GIFT:~/asus-wmi-sensors$ ^C
tom@EJS-GIFT:~/asus-wmi-sensors$ 



Tom
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Message 2006482 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 13:55:09 UTC - in response to Message 2006479.  

CPU Temperature:          +92.0°C  
CPU Socket Temperature:   +65.0°C  
Motherboard Temperature:  +32.0°C  
Chipset Temperature:      +48.0°C  
Tsensor 1 Temperature:   +216.0°C  
CPU VRM Temperature:      +50.0°C  
Water In:                +216.0°C  
Water Out:               +216.0°C  
CPU VRM Output Current:  +83.00 A  

k10temp-pci-00c3
Adapter: PCI adapter
temp1:        +92.6°C  (high = +70.0°C)

asus-isa-0000
Adapter: ISA adapter
cpu_fan:        0 RPM


So baby is running red hot. Guess that confirms the "need more cooling" issue.

Tom
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Message 2006484 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 14:03:09 UTC - in response to Message 2006482.  


So baby is running red hot. Guess that confirms the "need more cooling" issue.

Tom


Just switched cpu multiplier to "auto" till I get a better cooling solution. Its running 68~C now.
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Message 2006498 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 15:58:30 UTC - in response to Message 2006484.  

Yes, that cpu was running red-hot. You need a better cooling solution. Glad to see you got the sensors working. Are you running just sensors in the Terminal or do you have a Desktop monitor like Psensor or GKrellm to display sensors?
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Message 2006510 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 18:29:37 UTC - in response to Message 2006482.  

CPU Socket Temperature: +65.0°C

Hey Tom, let me give you a little tip that I have been doing with AMD processors since the K10. Get yourself a little 40mm fan and mount it to the backside of the cpu socket on the bottom of the motherboard blowing air down over the PCB directly under the socket. The AMD backing plate has a big square cutout to clear all the SMD caps and resistors on the underside of the socket. Get yourself a roll of that double-sided foam tape you use to mount pictures to make two legs to mount the 40mm fan to the backing plate so that the fan stands about 3/4" high of the PCB. The air blown down on the socket will reduce both the cpu socket temps and the cpu temps considerably. It will reduce the socket temp by 20° C. and the cpu temp by at least 5° C. Plug the fan into the CPU Opt header that rarely gets used.
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Message 2006513 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 18:40:50 UTC

Tom, forgive me if I missed it in this thread, but are these computers you're having high temp problems with in a case, or open? If its in a case, what's your case fan situation?
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Message 2006515 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 18:55:29 UTC - in response to Message 2006510.  

That could be a really useful, and cheap, mod for just about any "recent" AMD processor - so many of them "glow in the dark" with heat. As I'm about to have a big reshuffle at home in the next few days I'll order a couple of little fans and give it a go.
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Message 2006520 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 19:09:29 UTC - in response to Message 2006515.  

The one thing I don't understand since I've gotten back into playing around with computers is the lack of information of airflow. I know case fans will display a peak CFM (cubic feet per minute of airflow, for those who don't know) for the fan, but I haven't seen anything with airflow requirements for GPUs or CPU coolers. I would think the ideal situation would be to move as much air (supply and exhaust) through the case as the sum of the CPU and GPU coolers combined. If you aren't flowing enough air through the case then the CPU/GPU cooler will just recirculate part of their air with hotter air it just exhausted.

However, I have never seen an "airflow requirement" for any coolers. I know that it would be hard to pinpoint an exact number for a variety of reasons (whether the CPU/GPU is overclocked, other obstructions in the case, etc.), but it would be nice to have at least a guideline to ballpark it. /soapbox
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Message 2006528 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 19:55:32 UTC

So many things affect the airflow over coolers (and don't I know it....) that most cooler manufacturers don't want to release such figures. Indeed many aren't even prepared to release figures for the thermal transfer capacity of their devices. In some cases this is because they would be very embarrassed by poor thermal ratings (bigger is not always better), or the airflow requirements to achieve a declared level of cooling. One certainly needs to get the heat out of the case "as fast as possible", while, in general that means having a high airflow, it needs to be an airflow in the right place and that can be very hard to achieve in the average (or even monster) PC case. Also it is not only the CPU and GPU that need to be cooled but also the RAM, chip-set, bridges, voltage regulators etc all need to be correctly cooled (no hot or cold spots, no thermal spill onto other devices - the list goes on and on).
One rough guide is to get as much "cold" air onto the input side of any fan system you have, and the draw it through with a fan with at least 50% greater capacity - then get that air out of the case "instantly". On the air cooled monster I've been involved in I have to get over 5kw off the processors and board to achieve this there are bits of ducting leading from the cold side to each major area (inputs to CPU & GPU heatsinks, RAM etc) then more ducting pulling the heated air out and dumping it into the exhaust air ducts and thence to the air/liquid air chillers and back round the cycle (and that is duplicated 16 times.....)
Now I know that is an extreme case, but some of the principals apply to just about every case going:
- Make sure you know what needs to be cooled
- Make sure the input fans are pointing in useful directions
- Make sure you know where heated air is heading
- Use simple baffles (cardboard or paper work OK to come up with the right shapes) to prevent heated air spilling on the cold side of anything else
- Don't put radiators inside the main body of the case - you want their input air as cool as possible and their exhaust air to get away as freely as possible.
One example was in order to get one of my cases to cool properly I removed all but one of the input fans out and just used some very simple cardboard ducts to get outside air to the input side of the GPUs, later I added the input fans, in pairs to the input of the ducts - this was done to stop the hot air from the CPU being ingested by the GPUs - the CPU hot air was now drawn out of the case by two exhaust air fans, at the same time a very small flap was placed to force outside air onto the bridges and RAM, again preventing the hot air from the CPU being forced onto them. (A smokey candle is very useful when trying to work out where air is going, or not going)
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Message 2006532 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 20:14:38 UTC - in response to Message 2006515.  

That could be a really useful, and cheap, mod for just about any "recent" AMD processor - so many of them "glow in the dark" with heat. As I'm about to have a big reshuffle at home in the next few days I'll order a couple of little fans and give it a go.

Rob it really works and well. Easy to do in the typical case that mounts the motherboard vertically. Take off the backside panel and in most recent cases, there is a large cutout in the motherboard mounting tray or platform for easy access to the cpu mounting plate. Normally the Intel cpus need their mounting plate removed for installation of any aftermarket cooler. So there is plenty of room for the fan. It is a short 6" in hop from the fan to the Cpu Opt header normally. Most of the 40mm fans run at 4000rpm or higher and move a ton of air for their little size. But with the case sides on you don't really hear that little fan over all the other fans in the case. The fans can be bought for as little as $5 or as much as $20 for the Noctua NF-A4x10 fan.
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Message 2006539 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 20:47:27 UTC

A fluid's dynamics aren't always what you might think them to be.
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Message 2006542 - Posted: 9 Aug 2019, 20:59:36 UTC

How you control your fan speeds can have a big impact as well.

My present motherboard allows each fan header to take it's control temperature from a different temperature sensor.
My case fans aren't controlled by the CPU temperature (as it is water cooled), but by the temperature of the VRMs (Voltage Regulator Modules) on the motherboard.

My motherboard doesn't have a dedicated water pump header, and when I got the system from the retailer the water pump was connected to the CPU fan header, the radiator fan to one of the other motherboard fan headers. Moving the radiator fan to the CPU fan header, and the pump to the motherboard header dropped the CPU temperature by around 5°c.
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