Don't know where it should go? Stick it here! Part VII

Message boards : Cafe SETI : Don't know where it should go? Stick it here! Part VII
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Message 1970966 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 23:14:32 UTC - in response to Message 1970965.  

That is impressive. I bet it was a fun drive, too.
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Message 1970965 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 23:08:02 UTC

I did a test this summer - 1,300 miles in a week from Yorkshire to Dublin via Stranraer, ferry to Belfast, Stroke City (Derry/Londonderry) and the wild west coast of Ireland. The car recorded 65 mpg overall, with the first fill-up after 675 miles.

That's a 2017 Peugeot 'Blue' diesel, 6-speed manual, 120 bhp. Our gallons are bigger than yours, so make that 52 mpg in US terms. And I've checked that the car counts as 'ultra low emission', exempt from London's pollution tax when it comes into force next year. I was mightily impressed - as good a buy as I'd hoped it would be.
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Message 1970956 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 21:51:17 UTC - in response to Message 1970953.  

I get 37.33mpg out of a 20 year old car, 35.6mpg if I'm going up a grade

That's great, Vic! My '99 Saturn SC1 manual transmission only gets about 26 mpg, and my '02 Camry only gets about 23, but pretty much all my driving is local stop n' go city short jaunts.

And it's an automatic 4 speed transmission too, yep Motorcraft Platinum plugs, K&N air filter, Royal Purple 5w30 synthetic motor oil, and t-rated tires up front, all help.
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Message 1970953 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 21:44:03 UTC - in response to Message 1970949.  

I get 37.33mpg out of a 20 year old car, 35.6mpg if I'm going up a grade

That's great, Vic! My '99 Saturn SC1 manual transmission only gets about 26 mpg, and my '02 Camry only gets about 23, but pretty much all my driving is local stop n' go city short jaunts.
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Message 1970949 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 21:40:24 UTC - in response to Message 1970940.  

Also cars go faster when they are washed.

Yes, I agree. Dust and grime creates drag.

I get 37.33mpg out of a 20 year old car, 35.6mpg if I'm going up a grade thru a pass or up to the mountains and the sound system is purrfection, I love playing afterburner in the car, not bad for a car rated for 25/30mpg in 1999 and I'm told the car still has plenty of zip too. Hehehehe...
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Message 1970940 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 21:05:53 UTC - in response to Message 1970938.  

Also cars go faster when they are washed.

Yes, I agree. Dust and grime creates drag.
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Message 1970938 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 20:54:25 UTC - in response to Message 1970916.  

Also cars go faster when they are washed.
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Message 1970916 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 12:33:53 UTC - in response to Message 1970890.  

Don't you talk to your appliances?

Usually just verbal abuse when they're being difficult.

Well, I like to keep the peace, and everything seems to run better when I'm nice. Cars run better when they're clean, too. ;~)
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Message 1970898 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 7:32:31 UTC - in response to Message 1970885.  
Last modified: 18 Dec 2018, 7:42:55 UTC

Well at 10:20pm the front bathroom GFCI outlet started to work after I pressed just the Red reset button, so I took My extension cord to the back bathroom, plugged in the cord to the nearest outlet in My bedroom and then into the fan in the bathroom there, the fan didn't work, so I plugged in My floor fan and that works on the cord, so that fan is dead.

I tested the back bathroom GFCI outlet after pressing the reset button with a small night light that has a photocell and the outlet has power, so I have 1 broken fan and 1 dead fan, but everything otherwise works. I was going to do an outlet swap, but that is not needed now. I have a real tester, but It's in a box somewhere.

As to water getting in beyond the 2nd door, I know the plate where the breakers poke thru is secured on all 4 corners, one day I'll just have to see about putting in a new 125 Amp Eaton breaker box inside the home and sealing up the outside with some of the board that matches the home's outside that I have on hand and that will fix the rain problem.

So asap I'll replace both 12" fans with a pair of 6" clip on fans that can be plugged into an outlet and not buy a 2nd extension cord as it's not needed, the breaker box has no open gap where a breaker would go anymore since I installed an Eaton made clip on plastic blank.


My grandmothers fan, I was going to try and repair it, not realizing that without a part from possibly 40 or more years ago, it's beyond repair, so it and another fan that simply stopped working are both headed to the trash in a trash bag.

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Message 1970890 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 6:53:11 UTC - in response to Message 1970863.  

Don't you talk to your appliances?

Usually just verbal abuse when they're being difficult.
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Message 1970885 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 6:13:53 UTC - in response to Message 1970865.  

zoom314 wrote:
I still can't get 2 GFCI outlets to work, I reset all six 15 Amp breakers, I'm thinking maybe both outlets are bad, I didn't bother with the 20A and 50A breakers as they pertain to this PC, the Kitchen and the Furnace. I reset the breakers and then the outlets, still nothing.

----------
Possible solution's/answers to your problem:
From FLUKE TEST INSTRUMENTS: Look for the "Why"
When a GFCI trips, there must be a reason. Instead of just resetting the GFCI, you also must investigate the cause of the trip.

Ground faults occur when electrical current finds an unintended path to ground. The usual ground-fault suspects include worn insulation, conductive dusts, water, or other "soft grounds." Ground faults account for more than 80% of equipment short circuits, and insulation deterioration on wires and cables cause 90% of them.

(snip) ... If equipment on all legs is operating properly, and the wiring checks ok, perhaps the cumulative leakage due to electronic equipment input filtering is high enough to trigger the random GFCI trips. In this case, consider redistributing the loading on each circuit leg or adding circuits to provide more capacity.


FROM quora.com: What are some reasons a GFCI might not reset? How can it be fixed?
The likely reasons for failure to reset are:
* There is still a ground fault on the circuit, e.g. a failed appliance still connected to the circuit, or a failure of wiring insulation in the circuit somewhere.

* Also look for outlets that show signs of charring, and condensation inside circuit boxes.

* The GFCI device itself has failed. Modern GFCI devices are designed to prevent reset when they fail a test.


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Message 1970878 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 5:46:55 UTC

More proof Television viewing can be "mind altering" ..................

These dolphins enjoy watching SpongeBob SquarePants—and it could be good for them
To keep captive dolphins entertained, marine facilities typically give them pool noodles and rings to play with. But a new study suggests these ocean mammals also enjoy a more human pastime: TV.

Researchers at Dolphins Plus Marine Mammal Responder in Key Largo, Florida, positioned large TV screens at underwater windows and played videos for groups of 11 bottlenose and five rough-toothed dolphins.

... For dolphins that are unfit for release, TV could be another way to stimulate their brains. The researchers also cite another potential benefit: Monitoring how dolphins respond to different videos could provide new ways to study how they think.


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Message 1970865 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 3:21:14 UTC

I still can't get 2 GFCI outlets to work, I reset all six 15 Amp breakers, I'm thinking maybe both outlets are bad, I didn't bother with the 20A and 50A breakers as they pertain to this PC, the Kitchen and the Furnace. I reset the breakers and then the outlets, still nothing.
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Message 1970863 - Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 2:56:59 UTC - in response to Message 1970768.  

Symptoms like you're describing would have me checking to see that the vents aren't blocked, and make sure the door seals are good, and the doors firmly closed

Good points, but my fridge is very clean with no obstructions, so I just feel there's a gremlin or two in the thermostat making it wonky. I don't know. All I can say at this point is it has stabilized at around 30 F down below, and 10 F in the freezer, so I'm leaving it be, and speaking kindly to it. :~) Don't you talk to your appliances?
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Message 1970837 - Posted: 17 Dec 2018, 22:21:54 UTC
Last modified: 17 Dec 2018, 22:26:32 UTC

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Message 1970818 - Posted: 17 Dec 2018, 19:54:33 UTC

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Message 1970811 - Posted: 17 Dec 2018, 18:37:41 UTC

Presumably they like there food deliveries to be hot at Berkeley. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-46593190 But maybe not burnt to a frazzle.
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Message 1970768 - Posted: 17 Dec 2018, 6:35:59 UTC

Generally the method for setting the temperatures is to set both of them just to the Warm side of the middle setting. If the fridge is mostly empty, the temperature will stabilise in a few hours. If it's full, it often will need 24 hours to stabilise. If necessary then adjust the Fridge control to make the temperature just right; usually the Freezer temperatures will then be OK as well. If not, give that control a slight tweak.

If possible, leave the area around the temperature dials clear of food- that will allow the air to circulate freely around the thermostats. Putting hot items near that area will often result in the rest of the fridge getting colder- because of the heat from those items. With the area around the thermostats crowded, it might be cold there, but warmer in the rest of the fridge- hence the need to give the Fridge 24hrs after making adjustments for it to take effect.
Also it's worth avoiding putting items right under or hard up against the vents in the fridge, as it reduces the airflow.

Symptoms like you're describing would have me checking to see that the vents aren't blocked, and make sure the door seals are good, and the doors firmly closed (at work we have a high number of idiots that are incapable of closing the doors properly, or checking the door is closed properly after putting something in the fridge or freezer that won't actually fit in there...).
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Message 1970666 - Posted: 16 Dec 2018, 13:51:28 UTC

Well, as of this morning, you can see it's like the North Pole in both compartments: -7 F in the freezer, and 20 F in the fridge. The freezer temp is ok, really, but it's the fridge compartment which is obviously way too cold. The controls are simplicity itself in the sense it's just a "cold to colder to coldest" range dial for both compartments, located in the roof of the fridge where the light bulbs are. I have both set in the middle of the range, and usually never touch it, but several months ago I noticed things getting too warm, and then too cold, and so I fiddled with the dials, first turning them colder, and then less cold, and then it seemed to reach an agreement with me when I set it back on medium cold again, and talked to it, but in the last two days it has decided to go for a new ice age.




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Message 1970620 - Posted: 16 Dec 2018, 6:31:30 UTC - in response to Message 1970604.  

My refrigerator is so weird. It has wild temperature swings and right now, it has decided to go into deep freeze mode, apparently. My ice cream is so hard it's like concrete, and my milk is getting chunky, and my Cokes are freezing.

Had mine do the same recently. And it isn't an IOT fridge.
Too cold isn't good. Warm is bad.
You could try canned air to blow out any dust from the temp control. Otherwise it may be time to have the control replaced.

There is a good chance these days that any repairs are going to cost about the same as a replacement.

I would do a thorough check of door seals, and they were the expensive items for an old, out of date, fridge/freezer, as explained by my expert. He also said the charges for a competent repair man* for the other issues were another factor in recommending new, along with being more efficient and cheaper to run.

*competent repair person, most come from the baby boomers and are retiring, most younger people regard "white goods" (which are rarely white these days) as fashion items and should be changed every three years, five at the most. The manufacturers are all too willing to comply with this fad.
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Message boards : Cafe SETI : Don't know where it should go? Stick it here! Part VII


 
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