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Ian&Steve C.
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Message 1936354 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 4:18:43 UTC
Last modified: 20 May 2018, 4:19:23 UTC

awesome build.

since the whole thing is watercooled, and you dont seem to be sparing any expense anyway, have you thought about just relocating the heat exchanger to another room, or even outside to dump all the heat. put all the rads outside a window or something. should make things easier
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Message 1936355 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 4:44:09 UTC - in response to Message 1936354.  

Just trying to get it up and running stable atm, an external radiator has been considered as an option and if needed could be fitted easily.
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Message 1936357 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 4:49:45 UTC - in response to Message 1936354.  

I have often wondered about trying a "water to water heat exchanger" most of them seem to be copper/stainless so they should be compatible with cooling systems. After all water is cheaper than AC.
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Message 1936401 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 13:28:43 UTC - in response to Message 1936357.  

I have often wondered about trying a "water to water heat exchanger" most of them seem to be copper/stainless so they should be compatible with cooling systems. After all water is cheaper than AC.


It does not get hot enough for long enough over here to bother with AC.

The max temperature of the water coolant should not exceed the max temp rating of the loop components, this is 40 to 50C, optimum temps are 10 deg lower, this is too low a temperature to be useful for other purposes.
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Message 1936416 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 15:30:53 UTC - in response to Message 1936357.  
Last modified: 20 May 2018, 15:39:48 UTC

I am pretty familiar with water-water heat exchangers in my past work experience. We used them to cool the de-ionized, distilled water in the internal loop to cool magnetrons and klystrons that produced the microwave energy to excite the electron beam in medical linear accelerators. The outside loop was just city water. City water is usually around 10-15° C so has plenty of thermal difference between what the typical custom water loop runs. My loop temperatures are around 30-36° C.

I used a really nice compact stainless steel heat exchanger that was only about 18" X 6" X 3" big. It was a third the size of the heat exchangers in the original linear accelerator design. It had really good thermal performance. If I remember right the minimum loop flow rate was only about 1GPM. I am trying to remember the Swiss manufacturer but it escapes me currently. I would need to dig through a Grainger catalog to find it again.

We used to use all copper heat exchangers that had to be specially built with bronze end bells but the manufacturer stopped making them forcing us to switch to all stainless. The internal loop had to be all non-ferrous because any metal ions leached from the internal loop would increase the water conductivity plus cause havoc with the intense magnetic fields used in the magnetrons and klystrons. The stainless steel exchangers solved the issue. They were not cheap and cost $600 if I remember correctly but that was half the price for the special build copper-bronze heat exchangers so it was an easy decision.

[Edit] This is the kind I was referring to.

Heat Exchanger,30 Plates,0.0704 Gal/Chnl
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Message 1936422 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 15:56:07 UTC

This is fun:-(

Spent about 5 hrs last night trying to get things running again after I upset the bios and could not work out how to correct my errors, finally remembered the bios reset button and then had to reset all the correct alterations.

Today I managed to install a piece of software that has major problems with this version of W10, it stops it working. I have had to re-install W10 and did not realise that in the process it changed the drive order, I had the boinc-seti folder on what was E drive and managed to set up to another E drive, had to let all WU's finish before shutting down boinc re-arranging the drive letters and re-installing with the right path, now just got to start installing the rest of the software again.

Oh well, I have managed to error one wu and created a ghost, it could have been worse.

The problem software is a file in the software used on the ASUS Front Bay.
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Message 1936424 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 16:08:55 UTC - in response to Message 1936416.  

I am pretty familiar with water-water heat exchangers


Would be handy if you had a stream running through you property:-)
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Message 1936426 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 16:17:42 UTC - in response to Message 1936422.  

It is a general rule in all the ASUS motherboard forums that all ASUS software is cra*. It is always recommended NOT to run the AISuite software emphatically. It messes up things badly both in the hardware and the BIOS. Same goes for any software that accesses the SMB bus without locking the mutex. Worst case is that any RGB DIMM modules get their SPD timing information corrupted and the CRC values changed. The minimum damage the ASUS software does is change how the readback values in the BIOS report so that you think you might be running one recommended voltage but in reality the applied voltage is drastically different. This leads to instability and frustration.
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Message 1936427 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 16:21:13 UTC - in response to Message 1936424.  

I am pretty familiar with water-water heat exchangers


Would be handy if you had a stream running through you property:-)

Best case yes. Either we just used city water running through the loop and then down the drain or tied into the chilled water HVAC plant of the hospital.
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Message 1936429 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 16:32:54 UTC - in response to Message 1936427.  


Best case yes. Either we just used city water running through the loop and then down the drain or tied into the chilled water HVAC plant of the hospital.


Over here they are installing water meters, atm the excuse they are using is that the less water that you use the cheaper it is (compared to an un-metered supply), they (I think) are making them compulsory if you use a garden sprinkler and are now being installed on all new builds.
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Message 1936430 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 16:36:17 UTC - in response to Message 1936426.  

It is a general rule in all the ASUS motherboard forums that all ASUS software is cra*.


Thank you , I was just about to install the motherboard software .
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Message 1936433 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 17:12:31 UTC - in response to Message 1936426.  

ASUS updated their warranty regarding

I was going to copy and paste it here but it's doesn't copy correct. Here's a link to the page

https://www.asus.com/us/support/Article/925/

Basically, if another other part corrupts or damages the Motherboard, it voids the warranty. (ie. those flashing DRRs that Keith talks about)
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Message 1936437 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 17:44:17 UTC - in response to Message 1936433.  

ASUS updated their warranty regarding

I was going to copy and paste it here but it's doesn't copy correct. Here's a link to the page

https://www.asus.com/us/support/Article/925/

Basically, if another other part corrupts or damages the Motherboard, it voids the warranty. (ie. those flashing DRRs that Keith talks about)

How can flashing LEDs on DIMMs corrupt or damage a motherboard? I don't see how. I'm no electrical engineer or anything, but I do kinda understand how LEDs work and I don't see them doing any harm. Except maybe to ones eyes after staring at them for a time. ;)

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Message 1936438 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 18:00:51 UTC - in response to Message 1936433.  

ASUS updated their warranty regarding



Nothing physically damaged, just W10 blue screening 10 seconds after startup.

The front bay is a device that is supposed to provide easy access to fan speeds, temps etc, but the software for it will not run with the latest windows.

To be honest it did not cost enough to be worth mucking around with. - Leads are onto headers that are under a graphics card, to remove would involve draining and striping down all the water cooling loop, audio and USB ports on it are working.
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Message 1936439 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 18:09:14 UTC - in response to Message 1936437.  

How can flashing LEDs on DIMMs corrupt or damage a motherboard?


Ask Keith, you can give you a very detailed account of how it happens. I'm just to lazy to look for the answer, which he posted some time ago in another thread.
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Message 1936442 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 18:31:56 UTC - in response to Message 1936439.  

How can flashing LEDs on DIMMs corrupt or damage a motherboard?


Ask Keith, you can give you a very detailed account of how it happens. I'm just to lazy to look for the answer, which he posted some time ago in another thread.

OK, are you referring to the LED that comes on during P.O.S.T., the DRAM LED, or the RGB LEDs on the DIMMs themselves? If it's the DRAM LED, then I understand, maybe. I would think that if the DRAM LED is flashing that the RAM itself would possibly corrupt or damage the motherboard, not the LED itself.

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Message 1936475 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 22:14:16 UTC - in response to Message 1936442.  

No I am talking about any hardware that has succumbed to the RGB lightshow fad that seems to be everywhere. That includes motherboard RGB displays, fan light shows, AIO pump light shows, RGB lighting strings. The way that all of this hardware is controlling the lighting effects, IOW the color, the intensities, the lightshow pattern is done over the SMB bus. So what happens when two different programs access the SMB bus to control their respective hardware at the same time?? I will tell you. Data corruption and or physically damaged hardware. Search on Google for damaged DDR4 RGB DIMM memory. The problem is rampant and was especially bad when the first RGB hardware and software programs appeared.

Only two softwares, Hwinfo and SIV have been modified to correctly lock the SMB bus mutex whenever they access the SMB bus to read values. The developer of SIV Ray Hinchcliffe exposed the issue and quickly informed the community. The developer of Hwinfo, Mumak also got with the program and acknowledged the stupidity of the manufacturer software writers. None of the RGB hardware manufacturers have acknowledged the issue mainly because Ray Hinchcliffe has been blacklisted primarily by Corsair for calling them out on their crappy and poorly written software.

I will not ever use any RGB hardware as long as it is controlled by the SMB bus. The SMB bus is too important for normal computer operation. I have RGB lightshow on my Ryzen motherboards and the first thing I do is turn it off permanently in the BIOS. Controlling RGB hardware via it is asking for trouble. If you want to control RGB hardware there are other mechanisms that are safe or safer. The RGB hardware manufacturers just took the easy and simple way without thinking of the consequences. They all assume that only their hardware exists and only their software will access the SMB bus.

Use RGB hardware at your own peril.
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Message 1936477 - Posted: 20 May 2018, 22:20:52 UTC - in response to Message 1936430.  

It is a general rule in all the ASUS motherboard forums that all ASUS software is cra*.


Thank you , I was just about to install the motherboard software .

Just don't. Just don't. There is no need to. You can control anything the software does in the BIOS. You can set voltages, fan speed curves etc all in the BIOS. There are hundreds and hundreds of posts in the ASUS overclocking forums of how their software doesn't work and messes things up. The refrain is to remove the software to get back stable. There is also the issue that the software "digs itself in like an Alabama tick" as the movie quote goes. A real pain to properly and completely remove it once installed.
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Message 1936492 - Posted: 21 May 2018, 1:43:44 UTC - in response to Message 1936477.  

It is a general rule in all the ASUS motherboard forums that all ASUS software is cra*.


Thank you , I was just about to install the motherboard software .

Just don't. Just don't.


Left it all off, same with RGB lighting, the only lighting running is the built in leds on the GPU PCB's (did not install wiring for LED's on GPU water blocks) and white LED strip in reservoir base which is direct powered of of PSU SATA power connector(no controller).

Did not know of the problems with the software side of RGB leds but was highly unimpressed with the lack of quality over the physical construction of the electrical connectors used - friction only connectors with no form of keying for pin orientation and just bent pins soldered onto a PCB (no retaining plastic headshell ).
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Message 1936493 - Posted: 21 May 2018, 1:50:29 UTC - in response to Message 1936492.  

I don't know if you need to or care, but you can control the intensity level of the Nvidia card logos with nvidia-settings. I have two crunchers in my bedroom and the bright logos are too bright at night when sleeping since the case has a clear side panel the lets them shine through. I turn them down to 15 or 20 out of 100 so they don't bother me. The GTX1070 Founders card is the worst. The EVGA cards aren't so bad to begin with.
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