I stumbled across this guy on YT, who is building weird but wonderful stuff. Like a CPU heat sink on his GPU, and thereby cooling his GPU under full load at 20 degrees centigrade less, against a way lower sound level.

And then that GPU built into his self made PC case, with the motherboard turned sideways so the ports are at the top of the case, and two huge 140mm fans in the bottom taking care of all the cooling.

Maybe it gives ideas. ;-)

I like their overall concept. My only concerns on that build are the use of a towel due to static issues. Then the heat from the PSU moving up to the CPU.

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SETI@home classic workunits: 93,865 CPU time: 863,447 hours
Join the [url=http://tinyurl.com/8y46zvu]BP6/VP6 User Group[

Well, as he said, it's for ideas. I'm pretty sure the towel will be replaced by something else in his 2.0 version. It is only there against the vibrations, so find some other material that takes up the vibrations and doesn't add a fire-hazard, and Bob's your uncle.

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I stumbled across this guy on YT, who is building weird but wonderful stuff. Like a CPU heat sink on his GPU, and thereby cooling his GPU under full load at 20 degrees centigrade less, against a way lower sound level.

And then that GPU built into his self made PC case, with the motherboard turned sideways so the ports are at the top of the case, and two huge 140mm fans in the bottom taking care of all the cooling.

Maybe it gives ideas. ;-)

Reminds me of the SilverStone Raven RV02 and Fortress FT02:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RV02&area=usa
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=242&area=en

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Greetings,

It's amazing what watching a video about a home-built PC case will do. It caused me to solve a mystery.

Not long ago I had to replace a PSU in the other's PC. After a few minutes the PC would shut down. Let it sit for a few, fire it up, booted just fine and again after a few minutes the PC would shut down. I discovered that the fan was not spinning just before shutdown.

This morning I opened that PSU and saw nothing that jumped out at me right off. I made a jumper for the 20 pin connector and powered the PSU. No fan spin. Ok, where's the problem?

I pulled the fan and used my multi-meter to test voltages. +5v was averaging 4.95v. I figured that was tolerable. All others were fine. I decided to test the fan again. This time I used 2 short pieces of wire that fit the PSU connector and the fan connector. Connected the 2 and hit the power button. Voila, the fan works as it should. Conclusion: there is a problem with the fan circuitry on the PSU PCB.

Now, to the video: That PSU would do just fine in a custom made PC case.

What do you think? :)

Keep on BOINCing...! :)

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CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

What I do need is a phone number to evga tech support.

http://www.evga.com/about/contactus/
Office Hours: Monday – Friday 9AM to 6PM PST

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SETI@home classic workunits: 93,865 CPU time: 863,447 hours
Join the [url=http://tinyurl.com/8y46zvu]BP6/VP6 User Group[

Ok, now this FF bios code is still displayed on the motherboard

Look at this FAQ: http://www.evga.com/support/faq/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=58590

For this person it was his CMOS battery that was the problem. So you can try this out, power the system down completely, take the leads out the wall-sockets, then open the system and take the CMOS battery out.

Leave it out for a minimum of 10 minutes, more is better.
Then replace it and put the leads back in the power sockets, then reboot the system. See if that works. Remember to check your BIOS/UEFI settings after this though, as most all will be reset to default.

Completely replacing the CMOS battery may also be an idea, they don't have eternal life. When you do, also leave it out for some time to allow what possible corruption there is in the CMOS to reset itself.

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From CNet.com 5 rookie mistakes you can make when building a PC

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The pic shows that about 70%-75% of the cpu is covered.

The amount should be right but did you spread I? I am sure instructions call for that. You need 100% coverage to insure 100% contact. There can not be gaps in coverage. I have never installed a CPU without spreading the compound.

If that is what the picture shows, it is just plain wrongly applied.

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SETI@home classic workunits 4,019
SETI@home classic CPU time 34,348 hours

This might seem stupid, but I put a grain of rices worth on the center of the cpu and let the block spread the compound, since I swapped cpus, I will get 100% coverage before any power is applied.

Not true, you need to spread the paste, usually with something like a credit card to insure the minimum amount between the cooler and the CPU chip itself. There is not guarantee that it will spread on its own.

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SETI@home classic workunits 4,019
SETI@home classic CPU time 34,348 hours

Congrats on your success.

However, I must differ with your manner of dealing with heat sink compound.
What you want is the thinnest layer possible which still makes full contact between the cpu and heatsink.
Putting a dab in the middle and relying on the heat sink pressure to spread it is not likely to get that.
I always spread it on the heatsink with a credit card, and then if it is a new installation, take it back apart to make sure there is complete coverage, and that the cpu or heatsink are perfectly flat. Then spread it back out and reinstall.

If you are not pushing the cpu particularly hard, you may get by with your method, but you would probably get lower temperatures if you did it properly.

As one who has done a lot of overclocking where this was an important issue, I do know what I am talking about.

Meow!

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"Time is simply the mechanism that keeps everything from happening all at once."

Return to stock clock - I had the same problem on a slightly over-clocked i7, it would appear that some i7 can't stand any overclocking, but others will go to "stupid" overclocks.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Ok, I have a problem, win 7 pro x64 says I can't install cause I have an editing bios which requires a gpt partition and not an mbr disk partition, if I go gbt I lose files, like email and paint shop pro 4.12, etc, etc, etc...

Why am I going this route? Cause my win 7 pro Installation blue screens, even in every version of safe mode...

I have had this problem a number of times. The only solution that I have found is to use an external drive to make a backup of my files and then do what the install wants. After that you can bring the files back. If you are using Win7 you can use the WET method, Windows Easy Transfer. That can copy your files and settings and bring them into your new install.

I have spent days getting UFEI to properly see all my drives, both HD and Optical as it will tell me the Optical drive is not UFEI one time, and the next reboot it will be UFEI. I have not figured out what it is, except maybe my MBs are early UFEI and do not offer all the options that are now available.

WET is used on the old running drive first, before anything else is done. The program is found on the OS disk, or installed on your system already.

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SETI@home classic workunits 4,019
SETI@home classic CPU time 34,348 hours

Vic - how many water coolers, radiators etc do you have "in stock"? - If you need one then use some of that stockpile, do not spend money you do not have. Get one PC running in a stable condition, which should not be hard as you had one until about a week ago:

ID: 7218194
Rank 1
Av. credit 778.09
Total 34,196,911
BOINC version 7.6.22
CPU GenuineIntel
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU 750 @ 2.67GHz [Family 6 Model 30 Stepping 5]
(4 processors)
GPU NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 (1536MB) driver: 335.23 OpenCL: 1.1
OS Microsoft Windows 7 Professional x64 Edition, Service Pack 1, (06.01.7601.00)
Last contact 14 Apr 2016, 6:58:14 UTC

It certainly doesn't look as if that one was blue screening when you pulled it from service. It may not have been the fastest on the block, but it was working and did allow you to communicate with the world....

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Don't bother about having the system tidy until you have made sure it all works.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Cheaper - just use two of the holes to mount the 120mm radiator in the location used by one of the 240 or 360 radiators.

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

i'm running three 120mm radiators in my haf-x.

i took out the 140mm fan in the back and one of the radiators goes there.

in the top where there is a place for an optional 200mm fan i used two screws to mount a second 120mm radiator.

i didn't buy any fan grills from flo-rida.

if i look at your pic i can see the crossbar on the right that i put two screws through to hold up my second radiator

Problem installing win7 x64 ultimate n with GA-P55

Answer

Try to put it to HPET 64 bit instead of 32 Bit setting in the BIOS if it is there and try to install again and put it the HDD's on AHCI instead of IDE.

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=5137.0

pertains to a gigabyte board but P55 chip set is the same

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To me, it looks like you spit out a pile of garbage before changing to Lunatics, not sure why.

if you use just two screws to hold up the radiator then you wouldn't need to buy the grill