On the box it say's ready for use etc.

So I half filled it with very hot de-ionised water gave it a good shake for a few min's and emptied it into a large clean jug.

I have seen a few pictures and it was no where as bad as that but there was a few very small bluish coloured bits.

So I gave it the treatment with cillit bang, green then orange, did not bother to inspect what that dislodged but after flushing with cold water I repeated the hot de-ionised water a couple of times and it came out clean.

Still got the other 2 rads to do, there's an afternoons work there.

Got my screws, power supply fitted and pump shelf re-fitted.

Fitting the rad was fun, I don't think, temporarily fastened fans with 2 grub screws each then managed to get rad lined up and properly fitted.

Photo's are being taken.

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Kevin

I find it kind of amazing that a company can produce a (not inexpensive) product and then sell it to end users with the knowledge that they will be required to put it thru intense cleaning to make it fit for purpose. That's as if I machined a precise component for a customer, pulled it off the mill and threw it in a box and sent it on its way, without even wiping the coolant or chips off of it, and then expecting the customer to be just fine with that? Wow. Seriously? Take some pride in your work, and your product, folks.

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It is one of the reasons that I chose acrylic topped water blocks for CPU and GPU's, its possible to check for crud buildup without having to strip the blocks down.

I am using de-ionised water for cleaning but will be running with Mayhems ultra pure H2O with silver coil, no colourants or other pretty additives.

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Kevin

My cpu block got crudded up not from my very clean radiator but from the cheap PVC tubing in the kit I bought. It leeched plasticizers VERY badly in less than 6 months and went from clear to dirty brown in clarity. I haven't had any issues with the PrimoChill Advanced LRT tubing I got for the teardown rebuild to add the 1080Ti Hydro Copper and clean out the cpu block. Almost completely blocked off jet plate and it took a good 15 minutes of scrubbing with a toothbrush to clean the microgrooves. Used the concentrated liquids provided in the PrimoChill LRT kit. Ran the cleaner solution for a day while I was leak testing the completed rebuild with the gpu in the loop. Didn't get any more crud out of the system. And then used the anti-corrosive concentrate in the kit for the mix solution. System still looks clean and the LRT tubing is still crystal clear.

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Seti@Home classic workunits:20,676 CPU time:74,226 hours

A proud member of the OFA (Old Farts Association)

I am using de-ionised water for cleaning but will be running with Mayhems ultra pure H2O with silver coil, no colourants or other pretty additives.

Why don't these systems make use of a 100% Glycol Automotive coolant with inhibitors (or even just a low water content coolant)?
No Galvanic reactions, corrosion or scaling, and long life coolants are rated for 5 or more years before requiring replacement.

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Grant
Darwin NT

Primarily because ethylene glycol actually is a poor thermal conductor compared to just pure water. Makes sense for a high volume, high flowrate automotive application but doesn't work well with our small volume, low flowrate closed loop systems. This has been documented by the water cooling experts. The AIO units actually do use a low percentage glycol solution, but nowhere near the automotive 50% concentrations. Most of the specialist cooling mixes are a anti-biological additive like copper sulphate and a anti-corrosive in very diluted concentration.

[Edit] Forgot another major no-no for ethylene glycol. It attacks the clear plastics commonly used in reservoirs and cpu blocks like acrylic.

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Seti@Home classic workunits:20,676 CPU time:74,226 hours

A proud member of the OFA (Old Farts Association)

Mayhems tubing being used ,which is apparently the tubing to use this side of the pond.

The hardline tubing I will be using is EK-HD PETG Clear tube and Phanteks Glacier fittings for use between GPU's and between the two top mounted rads.

I have followed Overclockers UK forums and others for a while and have read about similar problems with plasticizers from some types of tubing as well as similar problems with some types of dye's and colourants.

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Kevin

You have room for 2x 360 rads up top without removing the 5.25" cage ?
These will be used as exhaust, I guess ?

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Humans may rule the world...but bacteria run it...

You have room for 2x 360 rads up top without removing the 5.25" cage ?
These will be used as exhaust, I guess ?

I have had to remove a section of the side of the 5.25" cage, the front part of the top 2 mounts will be usable, fitting temp gauges and ROG Front Base panel into top 3 5.25" bays anyway, other 2 bays will be fitted with Blu-ray drive and 3.5" hot swap bay.

Air flow will be in front and bottom, out top and back.

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Kevin

Been a busy afternoon.

Both rads cleaned, one was not too bad but the other had a fair bit of crap in it, used about 6 litres of de-ionised in the end.

Both rads are now fitted, slight modification to plan, I had not allowed enough space for the fans so decided to go topless, fans and connecting hardline tubing are above the chassis of the case, finger guards are fitted to fans and the top cover will be left off.

Got to start stripping down my old machine, parts are required for this machine and the MB, CPU and memory are going to a new home.

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Kevin

I have had to remove a section of the side of the 5.25" cage, the front part of the top 2 mounts will be usable, fitting temp gauges and ROG Front Base panel into top 3 5.25" bays anyway, other 2 bays will be fitted with Blu-ray drive and 3.5" hot swap bay.

Air flow will be in front and bottom, out top and back.

Very nice ! Must be sure to have positive air pressure in the case then, if you're going topless :-)

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Humans may rule the world...but bacteria run it...

Very nice ! Must be sure to have positive air pressure in the case then, if you're going topless :-)

I hope so, high speed fans on input, Medium speed on outlets. It all depends on getting the right fan profiles set up in the bios.

The case top does not make any difference, there are no openings other than those used by rads, but it will make sure that I cannot use the case top as a shelf.

CPU and water block fitted, memory installed, Motherboard in case, CPU loop installed:-)

Working on the wiring:-(

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Kevin

Sounds like the project is moving along nicely now. Thanks for the update.

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Seti@Home classic workunits:20,676 CPU time:74,226 hours

A proud member of the OFA (Old Farts Association)

I hope so, high speed fans on input, Medium speed on outlets. It all depends on getting the right fan profiles set up in the bios.

The case top does not make any difference, there are no openings other than those used by rads, but it will make sure that I cannot use the case top as a shelf.

Jepp, optimal fan profile will make all the difference for a cruncher of this magnitude to strike a good balance between cooling and noise.
Re the air flow, was thinking about dust possibly accumulating on/in the rads/fans.

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Humans may rule the world...but bacteria run it...

It's almost impossible to keep dust from accumulating in rads, even with very fine dust filters on the ingress areas. You will still need to vacuum/blow out rads every month or so.

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Seti@Home classic workunits:20,676 CPU time:74,226 hours

A proud member of the OFA (Old Farts Association)

It's almost impossible to keep dust from accumulating in rads, even with very fine dust filters on the ingress areas. You will still need to vacuum/blow out rads every month or so.

Wheel outside back door, compressor + air gun:-)

Wiring almost done, 1st card temp installed in slot 4. lost use of one of my usb 3.1 headers - not enough headroom above it to fit plug.

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Kevin

It's almost impossible to keep dust from accumulating in rads, even with very fine dust filters on the ingress areas. You will still need to vacuum/blow out rads every month or so.

Wheel outside back door, compressor + air gun:-)

Wiring almost done, 1st card temp installed in slot 4. lost use of one of my usb 3.1 headers - not enough headroom above it to fit plug.

I watched a video from this guy that has been running a computer build/repair business for 27+ years. He uses a leaf blower to blow out PCs and it works like a champ. Does zero damage to the innards of the PC. The leaf blower was used to disprove the fan spin myth. He actually got the fan to generate a tiny electric current. Plugged it back into 12V DC and it work as designed.

I also watch one of his videos where he tried to destroy a CPU with no success at all. No heat sink, no fan, nothing to cool the CPU and it would not die. And people are so adamant about cooling a CPU or not forcing fans to spin overly fast with compressed air or whatever. Of course those videos where "Don't do this at home." by nature, unless you do it carefully.

Same thing with magnetic items inside a PC. Use a magnetized screw driver so you don't lose screws that you forget about dropping and end up under a MOBO shorting it out. Back in the day when all we had was magnetic media, 8 / 5.25 / 3.5 inch floppies, magnets had to be kept far away from them.

Siran

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CAPT Siran d'Vel'nahr - L L & P _\\//
Winders 11 OS? "What a piece of junk!" - L. Skywalker
"Logic is the cement of our civilization with which we ascend from chaos using reason as our guide." - T'Plana-hath

It's almost impossible to keep dust from accumulating in rads, even with very fine dust filters on the ingress areas. You will still need to vacuum/blow out rads every month or so.

Wheel outside back door, compressor + air gun:-)

Wiring almost done, 1st card temp installed in slot 4. lost use of one of my usb 3.1 headers - not enough headroom above it to fit plug.

I have that problem with the USB3.0 headers on my ASUS boards. They sit on the bottom edge of the motherboard and prevent installing a video card into the bottom PCIe slot. I found the solution with a low profile-flying lead extension cable for those headers. I would assume that there is a similar solution for USB3.1 headers.

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Seti@Home classic workunits:20,676 CPU time:74,226 hours

A proud member of the OFA (Old Farts Association)

Thing are not going as planned:-(

The fittings I was going to use between the GPU's are too large, new parts will be ordered tomorrow.

Am going to carry on assembling the rest of it.

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Kevin

Thing are not going as planned:-(

The fittings I was going to use between the GPU's are too large, new parts will be ordered tomorrow.

Am going to carry on assembling the rest of it.

Been there, done that. More than once.
Chin up, carry on.
Meow.

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"Freedom is just Chaos, with better lighting." Alan Dean Foster