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Message 1905483 - Posted: 8 Dec 2017, 4:15:57 UTC
Last modified: 8 Dec 2017, 4:17:10 UTC

I thought I'd cross post this, from My other thread, it does have a VGA interface, not bad for a 1080P TV, hopefully this will work as expected...

My 2nd attempt at a replacement mainboard for the Samsung UN55D6050TF 55" 1080P TV, I had planned to put a passive metal heatsink on it from a TCL 55US57 4K TV, this I guess is the sellers cooling solution, thermal pads. I just installed the board, I'm beat, after only 6 screws, I still have a new IR cable to install, tomorrow...

I managed to get the old IR sensor cable off of the Samsung 55" TV, Ugh, but at least the New cable will be easy to install.

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Message 1905546 - Posted: 8 Dec 2017, 10:37:29 UTC

I found out the two cables below are almost exactly the same, what is different, one needs to be fixed(UN55D6050TFXZA), the other is undamaged(UN55D6005), yep these two 6000 series Samsung TVs and use a main board like the BN94-05038C.


Now here is something, the board below is a main board made by Samsung, one with a TCL 55US57 donor heatsink, and the same main board without said heatsink, notice the 4 holes around that BIG Silver chip? I did, I noticed something else too, all the C and E models(F to present too) TVs had heatsinks, yet the D's except for a UN40D5550RFXZA main board(BN94-04513B) have holes and no heatsink, the 04513B so far being the exception. Anyway back to the TCL heatsink, it'll need some work to adapt it, the screws do fit in the holes.

Donor Board w/TCL heatsink.

Donor Board w/o TCL heatsink.

I might get some small low profile heatsinks to stick on the 1/8" thick thermal pad in the last pic just as a temp measure, since heat here is the enemy, and kills these chips. The board with the thermal pad is not the Donor, it's the replacement for the Donor board.

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Message 1905693 - Posted: 8 Dec 2017, 20:05:44 UTC

Here's a Mainboard for a Samsung UN40D5550RFXZA 40" TV, the board is a BN94-04513B, main chip is covered by a simple heatsink, later model Samsung TVs have more extensive heatsinks of course.
Some use thermal adhesive, some use pins or screws and thermal compound like on a cpu.

Like this one from a model UN55JS7000FXZA 55" Samsung TV(BN94-09269A (BN97-10061R))...

Or this one from a model UN55C6300SF 55" TV(BN41-01438B)...

Or this one from a model UN55FH6003FXZA 55" TV(BN41-01937)...

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Message 1905817 - Posted: 9 Dec 2017, 4:33:11 UTC

Ok I installed the new cable, and the other 3 cables. I'll have to look for some black aluminum heatsinks in one of the boxes here.

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Message 1909769 - Posted: 31 Dec 2017, 6:52:26 UTC

Next month or whenever I'm ready, I'm springing for a 1070 ti card, something from Amazon, then I can work on this PC here during an outage, I'll be changing out 5 fans, adding a fan hub and cable.

So which will I go for?

I'm not sure, I'm torn between an Asus, or an EVGA, or an MSI, or a Gigabyte...



Why am I torn? My PC case, crappy as it is, I don't want heat dumped into the case, since heat rises, the cpu radiator would pick that heated air up.

I like the ones that resemble a strix, but the ones that looks like the EVGA would I think work better in My tower case.

The Asus 1070 Ti Turbo being the exception, as the vent on the back is not big enough, nor is the Nvidia version.
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Message 1909770 - Posted: 31 Dec 2017, 7:00:17 UTC - in response to Message 1909769.  

You know where I stand. I prefer EVGA just because of their extend warranties. I've replaced around 8 or so cards over the years.

I understand about cost thou. The hybrid version of the 1070ti would help with that but it's at least $80 more than the base 1070Ti. So, probably not an option.
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Message 1909772 - Posted: 31 Dec 2017, 7:22:32 UTC - in response to Message 1909770.  

You know where I stand. I prefer EVGA just because of their extend warranties. I've replaced around 8 or so cards over the years.

I understand about cost thou. The hybrid version of the 1070ti would help with that but it's at least $80 more than the base 1070Ti. So, probably not an option.

And it's also about the weight, the case here resembles the Monolith from 2001: A Space Odyssey, My right shoulder isn't what it used to be, since I had dislocated the joint once.

I do know about EVGA, I have an X79 Dark motherboard, an excellent bios too.

If I had a Thermaltake X5 case, then it'd be a Strix or the Gigabyte for sure, right now I'm waiting for an Liheap check, in 2017 I got $343, and for February to get here, when I can pour in another $118, I have $130 on an Amazon reloadable gift card, soon to be $135 thanks to bing.com searches on January 3rd, if I lived elsewhere I'd just get a credit on the electric bill, but not being an SCE/DWR customer, people in the park who apply get a check instead.

Liheap is the Low Income Home Energy Assistance Program.
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Message 1909773 - Posted: 31 Dec 2017, 7:40:42 UTC

If you would stop wasting your $'s on junk you'd have all the tyres that you need for that unsuitable car that you have and a RAC that looks like that you're actually doing something Vic.

BTW, if you don't like this post then stop posting your never ending story of what will hopefully be in your little world (which may happen but rarely does in fact).

I'm sorry Vic, but you have to face facts before you lose it all, as well as driving the rest of us crazy with your complete incompetence to control your limited budget.

I'll also be back next year buddy. ;-)

Cheers.
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Message 1909780 - Posted: 31 Dec 2017, 8:09:33 UTC - in response to Message 1909773.  
Last modified: 31 Dec 2017, 8:09:55 UTC

If you would stop wasting your $'s on junk you'd have all the tyres that you need for that unsuitable car that you have and a RAC that looks like that you're actually doing something Vic.

BTW, if you don't like this post then stop posting your never ending story of what will hopefully be in your little world (which may happen but rarely does in fact).

I'm sorry Vic, but you have to face facts before you lose it all, as well as driving the rest of us crazy with your complete incompetence to control your limited budget.

I'll also be back next year buddy. ;-)

Cheers.

If I were incompetent I would be homeless by now, since I'm not, I'm not.

Oh and the tires are all taken care of back in November.

Mind you I keep a budget in a text file, and I stick to that budget.
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Message 1909786 - Posted: 31 Dec 2017, 8:51:05 UTC

Well that will change asap Wiggo, but I have to wait for a check to come in from the Liheap program, and for February to get here, and the last post was about the TV, not a 1070 Ti.

We all know that it's that silly buggered TV I'm talking about as well as all that old kit that you wasted $'s on over the years Vic that's never been used, but now you've gone from a way over priced 6GB 1060 to a 1070Ti, when will your madness end?

[BTW, I moved this reply here to save the Cafe from further pollution on this silly never ending saga of yours.]

Cheers.
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Message 1909788 - Posted: 31 Dec 2017, 9:00:05 UTC

Well right now I have a -226 error going on and I can't do any work, I've reinstalled Boinc, to no effect, now I'm trying the video driver, which is 376.33 WHQL for Win 7 Pro x64, I'd checked for malware, nothing.
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Message 1909790 - Posted: 31 Dec 2017, 9:17:33 UTC

I reset the PC, I was able to do some work, but I'm also getting a -3 error too, in addition to the -226, I'm loading the browser, so I paused Boinc for a few minutes while it loads.
SETI@home 8.20 setiathome_v8 (opencl_nvidia_SoG) 16fe07aa.3020.6207.3.30.109_0 00:00:06 (00:00:02) 12/31/2017 1:02:04 AM 12/31/2017 1:08:33 AM 0.04C + 0.5NV 33.33 Reported: Computation error (3,) Pegasus

SETI@home 8.00 setiathome_v8 (cuda42) blc04_2bit_guppi_58107_15589_OUMUAMUA_0019.21090.0.17.26.224.vlar_0 00:06:02 (00:05:56) 12/30/2017 11:54:34 PM 12/31/2017 12:46:57 AM 0.04C + 0.5NV 98.34 Reported: Computation error (-226,) Pegasus 0.00 MB

And for the 2nd night in a row Seti said I did not have a valid version of Setiathome V8 here, I'm using 7.83 Boinc, and the Lunatics 0.45b6 files for SoG.
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Message 1909848 - Posted: 31 Dec 2017, 17:33:57 UTC

Ok I fired up the PNY LC 580 video card at 657MHz, 200MHz slower than normal, and everything went smoothly last night, then I fired it up in a test this morning, same thing, crunching numbers like normal, I'll conduct a test later on too, what may have made the -226 and -3 errors?

Clocking My card up to full speed of 857MHz, why?

I've no idea, I think I'll just leave it there, and asap just replace it, I'll get a lighter card, that is more energy efficient 180w vs 300w, which will make My electric bill a bit smaller.
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Message 1955137 - Posted: 13 Sep 2018, 7:42:11 UTC
Last modified: 13 Sep 2018, 7:49:20 UTC

Things have changed some, some home repairs and a lot of car repairs have been done. I had a CT scan of My thorax, buzz, buzz, LOL, it was suspected that I had Emphysema by My Doctor as an xray showed scarring, Me I said was from pneumonia at one time, I was right, I should have bet Doc $100, kidding, except for some plaque in an artery and a fatty liver, My lungs are just healthy lungs, I'm down to 396lbs too. I'm taking 1000mcg of vitamin Methylcobalamin B-12 a day, My Doctor approves of this and it seems to be helping, this bypasses the liver and goes to the bloodstream directly.

I still need to work on both home and car, the car is down to 5 items:

1. Turning the front rotors(Raybestos, ugh, I won't buy these again, they were warped and NEW, yes I got a refund, turning them will set Me back $100 plus the cost of pads)
2. Doing the a/c(I have everything needed, I wish the shop did, their equipment is still busted and it's a small town, $??)
3. Doing an oil change(I have 5qts oil and a filter, that's $20 for labor)
4. Replacing a steering wheel that is soaked with oil thanks to some mechanics dirty hands(I have the replacement, the shop still no steering wheel puller, Free cause I'm such a good customer), and
5. Finding the cause of the Car needs service soon light(it did say O2 sensors, replaced those, it's still on)


Next here is getting the gas furnace repaired in October, it's probably either 1 of 3 limit switches or a furnace control board(an ICM2801 or a 7990-319P), I'm not sure if H&B is a York or Evcon dealer, possibly they were a Coleman installer, but both types are available new and not used, I had to do a decent amount of research on the subject. I had the furnace blower activate a few months back all on its own, the fan position on the thermostat was set to ON instead of Auto and the temp was at 88F and climbing, switching to Auto did nothing and the Thermostat has 2 good Duracell AA batteries in it for backup of the settings, so I turned the blower off at the power switch. Even the 50A 240v breaker is new.

I had to replace a few electrical outlets, one had burned up cause it was one without screws on the side that was installed by Fleetwood in 1987 and I had all but the main breaker replaced outside and the panel secured against rain, I still have 18-20 15A 115v electrical outlets to replace and 4 20A 115v outlets and circuits to get installed, the 20A circuits are estimated at $220-$270 by an electrician I'd hired, I have all the parts to complete all the electrical repairs. 9 outlets are ok and 18-20 to replace.

Burned outlet and wires anyone? I've got more of these little monsters in the walls, I also have their replacements.

Fleetwood installed these gems in 1987, if you own a place similar to mine, check it out, they're a fire hazard, one place nearby
burned down and was torn down as scrap by the new park owners, but then that place was old and owned by the park,
the new owners have been tearing out all the condemned units and refurbished 3 that are for sale, plus they changed
the name of the park from Trinity Oasis Palms MHP to Foothill Estates MHP LLC, they intend to get the park out of the
Mobile Home rental business and just rent the lots, all 88, thankfully I already own Mine as do 6 or so other places out of 28.

My panel is now fixed, the 100A main breaker has a hairline crack I was told, possibly cause of the huge aluminum power cable connecting the panel to the stub, the rest of the breakers are all new.


I also had work on the plumbing done, the toilet valves were both replaced and the garbage disposal were all installed, it was attracting some fungus gnats, an exterminator said they'd go away, He was right, they did, sorry no pics on this, you've seen one toilet and disposal, you've seen them all.

Panorama mode on My Samsung Galaxy Ring Camera. I'm slowly transferring stuff to the NEW bigger 72"Wx24"Dx78"H desk...

This beast can hold My laptop and 4 PC's, 2 full towers and 2 Cooler Master HAF XB cases, the 2 other PCs I have carts for.
Just getting the first shelf on was an adventure, since I had to get the 1st shelf, wheels, and posts upright with tight clearance above it, yep it was a tight fit, good thing the ceiling is arched or it would have been almost impossible for Me to do by Myself. The old 48"Wx18"Dx72"H desk will be used as shelving in the front bedroom for boxes, storage here is really lacking.

In the spring I'll be getting some new dual pane vinyl windows, for the kitchen window that can handle a 15,100 BTU window a/c unit and bracket and an identical one for the main bathroom window, if I can ever get the estimate for the windows, they have part of the estimate I was told, which part? I don't know. It can be 100F in the bathroom when it's 105F outside, on days like that I feel like I'm melting even with 2 fans on Maximum.
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Message 1955655 - Posted: 16 Sep 2018, 2:58:44 UTC

I've been driving along and something starts to drag on the ground, I use the brake and then put the Escort zx2 in reverse to see if I ran over anything and for a while the problem goes away with no resolution, this seems to be coming from the rear, I had the rear drum brakes worked on and the rear struts replaced after this started to happen and the dragging is back even after the work, I've been told everything is tight and since it's a 19 year old car, Mojave Ford won't work on it.

Splash guards is so far the only thing that might be dragging, though I've been told everything looks tight under the car, I'm not so sure, when I go back I'm taking My good camera and a long screwdriver to poke at stuff with, just cause it looks tight, doesn't mean it really is. Since I had the rear drum brakes and struts replaced those are out.

Also I need to get the Map sensor cleaned with some spray, I really do need to get one of those car/computer interfaces, there is another sensor that might need some attention, but I can't remember what it is.
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Message 1955823 - Posted: 17 Sep 2018, 2:37:49 UTC

Ok an update on My car's mystery noise, it's now loud and constant and does not go away when in reverse anymore,
when I was at the local market the noise was there and so were some reflective windows, I could see nothing dragging
and since the noise was at the rear, it has to be a rock between the dust shield and the rear spindle, which explains why
it was never seen, even when I had the shoes and drums off, so somewhere I picked up a rock in the last 2-3 weeks.
The noise is like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m32o4FphI9s

The front disc brakes are finally feeling better at 70mph, must be the desert heat.

After I get the Map sensor cleaned and the oil changed, I'll be down to 5 items that need to be done and the car will be totally fixed.
I'm waiting on the shop to get a steering wheel puller in and to get the a/c evac machine fixed, once that's done it's pull the instrument assembly,
replace the wonky tach w/a low mileage tach that I have and then the car will be 99% done, I'll have to see about the front seat and the loose
window weatherstripping on My drivers side door, after that the car will be 100% fixed. Yay!
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Message 1955998 - Posted: 18 Sep 2018, 4:09:53 UTC - in response to Message 1955823.  

... after that the car will be 100% fixed. Yay!

Best of luck with your car Zoom!

Most every car I have owned (and always well maintained) that has gone past 7 years since purchased new usually start showing their age and different, mostly "small things" start to "go wrong".

Within the past month, my 12 1/2 year-old car with almost 80,000 miles on it decided that I had a too much extra $$$ and needed a new radiator since the original sprung a leak that was not fixable.

My local repair shop wanted over $400 for a "brand new" aftermarket one including installation with only a 6 month or 5,000 miles parts warranty. Went to a local junk yard with a friend and we salvaged one from a clunker for $35 + tax. Called up my local shop before buying and they agreed to install it for an additional $85.

The oldest and car with the most mileage I had was my first car. It was a hand-me-down from my dad. I ended up junking it after 140,000+ miles and being close to 10 years old when the front left axle decided to "snap" when trying to drive it out of the garage one day.
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Message 1956001 - Posted: 18 Sep 2018, 4:57:51 UTC - in response to Message 1955823.  

Your car's noise - I doubt that it is something dragging on the road. A stone trapped in around a rear spindle - highly unlikely. More likely is that one of the springs that retain the rear brake shoes has become detached or has broken, they can be really difficult to get to sit down properly and you have just had some work done on the rear suspension, which would involve taking the rear brakes to bits.
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Message 1956002 - Posted: 18 Sep 2018, 5:17:38 UTC - in response to Message 1955998.  

... after that the car will be 100% fixed. Yay!

Best of luck with your car Zoom!

Most every car I have owned (and always well maintained) that has gone past 7 years since purchased new usually start showing their age and different, mostly "small things" start to "go wrong".

Within the past month, my 12 1/2 year-old car with almost 80,000 miles on it decided that I had a too much extra $$$ and needed a new radiator since the original sprung a leak that was not fixable.

My local repair shop wanted over $400 for a "brand new" aftermarket one including installation with only a 6 month or 5,000 miles parts warranty. Went to a local junk yard with a friend and we salvaged one from a clunker for $35 + tax. Called up my local shop before buying and they agreed to install it for an additional $85.

The oldest and car with the most mileage I had was my first car. It was a hand-me-down from my dad. I ended up junking it after 140,000+ miles and being close to 10 years old when the front left axle decided to "snap" when trying to drive it out of the garage one day.

Thanks.

Yeah, like hard to find parts, I share some parts with the Focus and the earlier Mazda's and the Mercury tracer.

It's not the right time for that for Me.

Right now it's a clip for the right rear dust/splash shield or backing plate for a drum brake, the existing clip was lodged between the shield and the rear spindle/knuckle as the screw had come loose and vanished, the shield on My car is an obsolete part, My only hope is the U shaped clip is still available, everyone else uses a different O shaped clip, the modified damaged clip is silent going forward, go in reverse, can you say Banshee?

This car is almost @ 109,000 miles. Except for this clip the rear is done, I'll know more in the morning, they might need to call a junk yard and enlist their help on this. I have enough on hand to do an oil change and to clean the MAP sensor and if needed the TPS sensor, plus wash the car, I have a smog test to pass in 2019.

Otherwise My car is in pretty good shape, it does need to be washed.


$ 20 Doing an oil change(I have 5qts oil and a filter, that's $20 for labor)
$ 15 Engine needs service soon light: Clean Map sensor(spray) and/or probably replace the TPS sensor(it did say O2 sensors at first), the TPS sensor is about another $30-$35.
$ 00 Replacing a steering wheel that is soaked with oil thanks to some mechanics dirty hands(I have the replacement, the shop still has no steering wheel puller)
$ ?? Doing the a/c(I have everything needed, I wish the shop did, their equipment is still busted and it's a small town) and the hoses need to be flushed of gunk.
$ ?? Instrument Assembly swap, the tach doesn’t always work and nor does tapping either, so I need to swap the tach out for one that was used less and I have the parts.
$200? Recover drivers seat with parts from old seat(Guesstimate only at this point and all labor)
$ 50? Fix driver door weatherstripping(Guesstimate only at this point)

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Message 1956003 - Posted: 18 Sep 2018, 5:22:30 UTC - in response to Message 1956001.  

Your car's noise - I doubt that it is something dragging on the road. A stone trapped in around a rear spindle - highly unlikely. More likely is that one of the springs that retain the rear brake shoes has become detached or has broken, they can be really difficult to get to sit down properly and you have just had some work done on the rear suspension, which would involve taking the rear brakes to bits.

It was a clip for the rear brakes dust shield, a U shaped part. I just had the rear drum brakes worked on, the area between the shield and spindle were not checked, everything down there looked ship shape or tight.
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