I'm just going to wait for the torx security screwdrivers to show up in the mail. But at least I'm making progress. sigh.

On the smaller security torx I have had a little luck by using a small flat screwdriver to snap out that security post, then using a regular torx driver

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It occurred to Me that I should try a different psu, instead of the Silverstone 1500w psu that is hooked up to the EVGA X79 Classified now, like in this case, a Corsair 950w psu(which just happens to be laying around in a box, protected and all, I didn't feel like installing it in the Asus X58 R3E either, though I had thought of that), I'm not sure if this will do anything at all, but it's less drastic than a motherboard swap, since all I have to do is disconnect and reconnect some power cables, plus move 1 video card for minute or so, to get access to one cable and just run the 950w psu hanging beside the case temporarily, since I'm not sure the 950w psu has long enough cables really and also cause removing the 1500w psu is not so easy to do, since other stuff is in the way, like a part of the case and one video card and possibly a radiator, plus there is the size of the 1500w psu, it's 220mm long, the thing almost needs a shoehorn to get in or out, it's also one heavy psu. Besides being a totally modular psu, I think the 1500w psu is ok, I just suspect some cables and I could be wrong, new cables would set Me back almost $133 off of Amazon right now, if I had that much currently and I don't. As soon as I feel like I'm up to this, I'll be testing this out. Getting a faucet fixed here was easy, I just had to find My curved vice grip pliers and now the faucet works like it should and still has a Nickel finish everywhere. Two cameras and sorry no pic of the faucet, but then it's just a faucet, though I did figure out how to get the smart phones camera flash working...

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Good to know you got the flash to work. Now you just need the flashlight app. I use it on my smart phone all the time.

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Good to know you got the flash to work. Now you just need the flashlight app. I use it on my smart phone all the time.

Yeah flash was set to off, so I switched that to on. I've got a flashlight that uses two D cells and has an LED bulb, the batteries last a few months.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok Cooler Master got in touch with Me on Facebook, they said I should contact them on the CM Fanzone, so I did, only to promptly be told in Registration that My serial number didn't matchup with what's in their database, so I took a pic and pm'd the Cooler Master rep on FaceBuck of what was going on and such, the Rep has two pics of My box and the fact that I bought the cooler used on ebay for $68.00(I have a receipt too, fat lot of good that does so far), being the Cooler Master Glacer 240L cpu cooler is an R1, it has a plasticizer issue, I found this out after I bought the unit, in which case the cooler may not be working too well, if at all, the R1 version is still being sold on Amazon, Cooler Master discontinued the R1 version with an improved R2 version that has better Hoses and a power cable that can be disconnected, there might be other improvements that I'm simply unaware of.

In short if you want a Cooler Master Glacer 240L cpu cooler, avoid the R1, buy the R2 version instead which from one Amazon seller delivered to Me would cost $140.29, or $129.00 before any tax and/or shipping...

So far nothing from Cooler Master on this, they'd have to allow Me to have an RMA and right now, even on the 31st, that would be impossible, but then I don't get enough now to cover this and everything else...

Cooler Master has a 2yr warranty, I bought the cooler on 3/10/2014, soon the warranty period will be null & void, I can't do a thing for months possibly. Between the bank and a loan to pay off, plus My normal bills, I'm out of luck.. I mentioned a Corsair H80i GT in December, I think that got Cooler Masters attention, maybe.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok here is an update with Cooler Master, they helped Me register the CM Glacer 240L R1 cpu cooler on their site, of course since it was bought on ebay, I'm out of luck and the R1 is out of warranty, the warranty is VOID, don't buy an R1, if you do, don't buy it used or on ebay.

Felinni: Hello zoom314,
Thank you for waiting and welcome to Cooler Master Live Help!
Please note, that you can answer many questions you may have by visiting our FAQ knowledge base here:

http://coolermaster.force.com/pkb/pkb_Home?l=en_US

Your live chat session will be available in the Support Ticket section of the CM Fanzone at the end of this chat.

Please hold for one minute while I review your question.


Thank you for your patience.
Felinni: Go ahead and try again. You're welcome :)
You: Ok I have an R1 unit and I now know about the plasticizer issue and that My Glacer may not be working.
Felinni: That's fine, we'll take care of you
Felinni: Go ahead and register
You: ok hold on and thanks.
Felinni: My question for you, however is you purchased from EBAY
Felinni: We can not warranty it since Ebay is not an authorized Cooler Master vendor.
Felinni: Can you link me with a purchase invoice?
You: Yes, yes I can.
You: It was an email file...
Felinni: You can take a screen shot of your invoice
You: No guest rma like EVGA has, ok, I'll do that, hold on.
Felinni: No unfortunately not, since we can not control the quality of third party goods sold
You: Ok here you are.
Felinni: Thank you for that.
Felinni: Unfortunately since this is a third party sales i can not honor the warranty, however I can assist you in troubleshooting it.
Felinni: What seems to be the problem?
You: I get an FF reading on My EVGA X79 Classified motherboard, I've changed ram, video cards(1 known to be working), power supply appears to work since fans and leds on the motherboard light and power up, I can't even get in to the bios, only two things to try before an RMA, psu swap and cpu cooler swap, the psu I have(a 950w), the extra cpu cooler I don't have, the R2 cooler would cost Me another $140.29 to buy new off of Amazon and I didn't think Cooler Master would do much and I was right. I get SSI so this will be more than a few months before I can do this.
You: Amazon still sells the R1 and it also sells the R2...
Felinni: FF? Can you tell me what the pump on the Glacer is reading?

I understand your circumstances and apologize for the inconvenience. I do suggest contacting the original seller for assistance.
Felinni: The difference between the R1 and R2 is the pull away power cable which is connected to the pump
You: FF is the readout on the motherboard, FF is not desirable, what the pump says? Where? Pumps like this one have no readout, so it says nothing.
Felinni: That is incorrect as long as you have the pump connected correctly hopefully on your CPU_FAN for the RPM and the SATA for the power then your motherboard will give you a readout of RPM speed. That is the variable that we need to know
Felinni: for proper functionality.
You: In the Bios or in windows? Note I can't get into either, so that is not helpful in the least at the moment.
Felinni: Both. Bios will report an RPM speed and Windows will as well with the proper hardware monitor such as HWINFO or Speed Fan
You: This is on a PC that is a replacement for this one, so that is impossible at the moment.
You: The Glacer 240L is in the replacement PC, not this PC.
Felinni: Oh ok. well now im confused as the Glacer is the reason for this troubleshooting chat correct? If it is in another PC then what can I do for you now?
You: Yes, the Glacer is the issue, it's not in this jury rigged and damaged PC is all.
Felinni: Oh ok
Felinni: So with that said. Are you getting a buzzing sound from the pump or is your system overheating due to the Glacer 240?
You: I've been building My own PCs since 1992, no, not at all, I didn't know it made any sound, outside of maybe bubbles from possible temporary cavitation.
Felinni: Ok so what makes you think the Glacer is the issue? Until we know the RPM speed, I don't have much information to assist.
You: Plasticizer issue could have borked the unit, it's the only thing outside of the psu that I have not changed, the psu I'm checking next, since I have a Corsair 950w pu on hand to replace the Silverstone ST1500 1500w psu with for a bit.
Felinni: Oh I see.
Felinni: Unless your pump is having issues than I can't determine the plasticizer issue you're having which were more apparent in the older swiftech h220 models
Felinni: not so much with our Glacer 240L.
Felinni: The main issues we've had were mainly bubbles in the pump creating noise.
Felinni: With that said I would contact the original seller to see if he can refund you if you feel your glacer is not working correctly.
You: Which I do like, the 240L, One of My PCs has no room for a 240L, so it will have to be a Corsair H80i GT, sorry about that, if there were a 120L that is 49mm thick on the radiator, then that would be different.
You: No chance, sellers often say all sales final and this was back on Oct 31st 2014, no chance of a refund from ebay either, not for $68.00..
Felinni: Ah possibly why it was sold for such a great deal.
Felinni: Is there anything else I can do for you today?
You: Yeah, I didn't see that, He said used, not for parts and not working, nothing I can do now on this, sale is simply too old.
You: No.
You: bye.

So that option is CLOSED off... Well I only have 2 more things to replace, the psu(soon) and eventually the cpu cooler(maybe, We'll see)..

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Ok I got this in the mail, a T6 Torx Security Screwdriver(2013-T6), I tried this size on the screws on the Nvidia GTX590 card, it works perfectly, I also tried the T5, it's too small.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I've also decided as soon as I can manage it, I'm replacing the Cooler Master Glacer R1(warranty voided by buying on ebay, after 45 days, no refund, I bought the cooler on Oct 31st 2014, so no refund is possible, since I've not heard any hum like Cooler Master said I should hear, it would have been nice if there had been an LED to tell if the pump was working or not, but there isn't on either the R1 or the R2) cpu cooler with a Corsair H105 cpu cooler, which looks like it'll cost Me $118.79 or so, I'd lose the ability to expand at a later date, but I could always buy a CM Glacer R2 for about $140.29 at a later date or even change My mind before then, the R2 is 29mm thick and made of Copper/Brass and is made by Alphacool, while the H105 is 38mm thick and made of Aluminum that is 29mm thick, the cost difference right now is $21.50, but that is possibly set for December 2015 or January 2016, funds permitting. In any case the Nvidia GTX590 card can be converted to water anytime I like, the Gigabyte GTX590 card will have to wait until it's fixed maybe in May 2016.

The ST1500 psu might get new cables eventually, but I don't think that the psu is a problem here.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I looked around and I found the following:

Alphacool Eisberg 240 CPU - Black
Model: AC-11190

The price is $106.95 before shipping & is available from Performance PCs, if you buy from here and I have, if you buy it, you can't return it, this is where I bought My ST1500 psu from, so make sure you really want it or need it before you buy here.

This cpu cooler is just as expandable as the Cooler Master Glacer 240L R2, unlike the Corsair or some other AIO cpu water cooler. Oh and unlike Cooler Master which only has the 240L, Alphacool has a 120 version available for $88.95.

Shipping in this case is just to Me, since shipping is not a one size fits everyone, shipping varies from person to person.
Shipping at Performance PCs is by USPS, FedEx, UPS or Local Pickup(if you are in or near Palm Bay, Florida).

Shipping 240: $19.13(via FedEx)
Shipping 120: $19.13(via FedEx)

Here's a reason I like the Alphacool better, you can see the water in the Reservoir/pump(the object on the right side of the picture) and the connectors are all G 1/4, so expansion and/or parts replacement is guaranteed.

Here's a closeup of the reservoir/pump.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Vic, can you do a quick reprise as to why you think the cooler that you tried to return has failed?

(I know you probably gave the reason, but it is lost in a rather rambling story somewhere)

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Vic, can you do a quick reprise as to why you think the cooler that you tried to return has failed?

(I know you probably gave the reason, but it is lost in a rather rambling story somewhere)

Rob I never tried to return the cpu cooler, since that is not possible, it's been more than 45 days, so that is too late to do.

I bought the cooler on ebay as a used unit and Cooler Master voids warranties if a product is bought on ebay, unlike EVGA who has a Guest rma and doesn't leave people hanging.

I talked to Cooler Master and they said the pump rpms would show up in the Bios or in Windows and CM said the pump makes a buzzing sound when running, well I have heard no buzzing sound, I've even touched the cpu cooler when it should've been working and I felt nothing at all, the power cable for the cpu is firmly attached to the psu and this cable is not detachable from the pump and since I can't get into Windows or even into the Bios, that lack of a buzzing sound means I have a worthless cpu cooler. The cpu cooler is plugged into power and the psu is ok, since everything else and the fans runs, the motherboard just stops on an FF error, EVGA is very vague on what this error means, I've swapped out the ram and video cards w/no change, I'm not worried about the cpu of course.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Vic, I've just had a look for EVGA boards giving the "FF" error - one person reports that leaving the battery out for a few hours cured the problem (he had tried shorter periods of time)

http://forums.evga.com/Motherboard-code-starts-up-at-quotFFquot-but-computer-doesn39t-boot-m1249346.aspx
(Post about leaving the battery out for a few hour is about half way down the page)


Its worth a try - take the battery out before you go to bed, then put it back in before you have lunch, that should be equivalent to him "going out for a bit".

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Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Vic, I've just had a look for EVGA boards giving the "FF" error - one person reports that leaving the battery out for a few hours cured the problem (he had tried shorter periods of time)

http://forums.evga.com/Motherboard-code-starts-up-at-quotFFquot-but-computer-doesn39t-boot-m1249346.aspx
(Post about leaving the battery out for a few hour is about half way down the page)


Its worth a try - take the battery out before you go to bed, then put it back in before you have lunch, that should be equivalent to him "going out for a bit".

One thing I'll do, next time I power the PC up, of course there is one thing I can't do and that is reseat the bios chip, why? It's cause of the door assembly that holds the bios chip in place, the chip is not socketed like in a dip chip or one of those plcc chips(see pic). I've also pressed and held the bios reset button multiple times, to no effect.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I had 5 PCs, I now have 4 more modern PCs in various states of construction now and that doesn't include the one between My ears or the bucket of bolts I'm typing on.

The one most likely to be the easiest to get running is My Asus Rampage III Extreme(i7 940 cpu), it needs 3 radiators(140, 280 & 420 Alphacool Monsta's, all three are 86mm thick), hoses, plastic hose clamps, some fittings, 6-Noctua Industrial F14 140x25mm fans, repairs to a Gigabyte GTX590 card, a water filter(for cleaning debris from the 6 blocks & 3 radiators), a submersible water pump, a bucket and biocide, since before that PC was converted to water, it ran on air with My current ram, I'm looking at an X5670 cpu here, one guy has an W3680 in His R3E, so an X5670 cpu should work, maybe.

Then there is the EVGA P55 FTW, except for the ram in this PC(that I don't have confidence in running in the FTW, My 16GB (4x4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1333MHz ram) and I need to remove the 2 unneeded water cooling parts from the case, it would be a rather straight, but risky transplant. This one needs ram, 16GB (2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance Blue 1600MHz would do, I have a cpu in mind for this too, an X3470(2.93GHz), the cpu is compatible and supported by EVGA on this motherboard, the X3480(3.06GHz) would work too, but is more than I want to spend on a cpu, though I'd probably just install the i5 750 for a bit at first.

Of course there is the EVGA X79 Classified(i7 3820) that is nearly finished, but it needs to have the battery and almost everything else removed from power that is not needed(including the 16GB (2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance Red 1866MHz ram), so that when I remove the battery and later power it up(I've got instructions on how to exactly do this, so no worries), hopefully the led readout will not read FF anymore and would boot up.

And lastly there is the Asus Rampage IV Extreme and its i7 3820 cpu, which currently has nothing else to go with it yet, not even a case, not yet at any rate.

What am I doing now? Waiting for some TV parts for a Samsung UN55D6050TF 55" TV to arrive, some cable adapters, the top to the base, screws for the TV to attach to the base.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

A picture of my rig I just happened to find while cleaning up... not he best pic...

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Before I get to work on a video card, an Nvidia GTX590, I did this.

I replaced some pipe insulation today, with some self sealing pipe insulation(I removed the plastic tape to allow the two sides of the insulation to stick together), I've got some more work to do and somewhere near 3' more pipe insulation left out of a 1"x72" section that I ordered on Sept 1st and received on Sept 14th(Home Depot $3.19+$0.26Tax or $3.45 total), all I needed was a short knife with a serrated blade. The part I replaced is on the top pipe, yeah I do need some PVC pipe tape. Most of the pipe insulation there is crunchy to the touch(from sun exposure), but is good enough for a little while longer.


Oh and as to TV's, My Samsung UN55D6050TX is working ok and I'm a few months away from replacing the current power board w/a used or new power board temporarily, so that the original can have some caps replaced professionally.

Sorry about the bad Pic, but the stand is not easy to see, that is to say that the camera has trouble, I do not.

I do need to soon enough upgrade My computers router to Gigabit, since My ISP TWC is upgrading the Internet Service here to at about 300Mbps(MAXX), though My service will be limited to about 100/10Mbps, My SB6121 modem, cat6 cable and PC are all gigabit capable, so I'm looking at a Netgear WDNR4000 as a replacement router, since it is Gigabit compatible, My current router tops out at 100Mbps.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I do need to soon enough upgrade My computers router to Gigabit, since My ISP TWC is upgrading the Internet Service here to at about 300Mbps(MAXX), though My service will be limited to about 100/10Mbps, My SB6121 modem, cat6 cable and PC are all gigabit capable, so I'm looking at a Netgear WDNR4000 as a replacement router, since it is Gigabit compatible, My current router tops out at 100Mbps.

How about a WNR3500L?

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I do need to soon enough upgrade My computers router to Gigabit, since My ISP TWC is upgrading the Internet Service here to at about 300Mbps(MAXX), though My service will be limited to about 100/10Mbps, My SB6121 modem, cat6 cable and PC are all gigabit capable, so I'm looking at a Netgear WDNR4000 as a replacement router, since it is Gigabit compatible, My current router tops out at 100Mbps.

How about a WNR3500L?

That would do, if the foot can be detached, like on the WDNR4000, which used is about $31, though it's not an immediate purchase, possibly in April or May. Where My router is at, has a 7.5" height limit, so I lay My router on its side. There is a slight possibility of Me getting the router earlier, but I have to see what My finances are like around Jan 2016.

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The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

I do need to soon enough upgrade My computers router to Gigabit, since My ISP TWC is upgrading the Internet Service here to at about 300Mbps(MAXX), though My service will be limited to about 100/10Mbps, My SB6121 modem, cat6 cable and PC are all gigabit capable, so I'm looking at a Netgear WDNR4000 as a replacement router, since it is Gigabit compatible, My current router tops out at 100Mbps.

How about a WNR3500L?

That would do, if the foot can be detached, like on the WDNR4000, which used is about $31, though it's not an immediate purchase, possibly in April or May. Where My router is at, has a 7.5" height limit, so I lay My router on its side. There is a slight possibility of Me getting the router earlier, but I have to see what My finances are like around Jan 2016.

Guess what I am no longer using at my house, I upgraded to a TP-Link Archer C2.

And yes, the foot comes off.

Of course my max internet speed here is only 6Mbps.

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Hmmmmm… Rubbing my chin. Very interesting.

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