Perhaps it is to warm to run in Burst mode? Your cores temps are well below the designed limit of 100ºC.

Power settings on the laptop will also limit the CPU (and GPU) maximum frequencies.

True. I always configure all of my machines for High performance. Then adjust the settings for when on battery a bit lower than maximum.
The laptop manufacture could also limit the functionality to a greater amount than Intel designed it in order to maximize battery life.

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Perhaps it is to warm to run in Burst mode? Your cores temps are well below the designed limit of 100ºC.

Power settings on the laptop will also limit the CPU (and GPU) maximum frequencies.

Do you mean the cpu settings in advanced energy options? Those are set to 100%.

BTW: Not getting any tasks for GPU may have a simple reason: I used the lunatics installer and simply may not have any app info for Intel GPU. I will try to fix that at evening when I'm back home.


@Hal9000: Would be great if you could check your temps/clock speed!

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Perhaps it is to warm to run in Burst mode? Your cores temps are well below the designed limit of 100ºC.

Power settings on the laptop will also limit the CPU (and GPU) maximum frequencies.

Do you mean the cpu settings in advanced energy options? Those are set to 100%.

BTW: Not getting any tasks for GPU may have a simple reason: I used the lunatics installer and simply may not have any app info for Intel GPU. I will try to fix that at evening when I'm back home.


@Hal9000: Would be great if you could check your temps/clock speed!

Linked to an image in this post.
http://setiathome.berkeley.edu/forum_thread.php?id=75172&postid=1543438#1543438

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Sorry, didn't see that, thx Hal!
So yeah, your temps are MUCH lower. I guess that's because your machine ain't a laptop. So maybe I have to wait for winter to see my machine run in burst;-)

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Sorry, didn't see that, thx Hal!
So yeah, your temps are MUCH lower. I guess that's because your machine ain't a laptop. So maybe I have to wait for winter to see my machine run in burst;-)

I suppose you could but blocks of dry ice to set the laptop on. That should keep it nice and cool. :)

The heatsink on my system is quite large. It looks like it might be twice the size of the one on my Core 2 Duo T7200 system. Which i on an old Abit il-90mv motherboard.
The C2D T7200 is the system that the Celeron J1900 is replacing. At least it will when I am done testing it. Then get around to getting the rest of the parts for the system so that it isn't laying sprawled out across a table.

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Perhaps it is to warm to run in Burst mode? Your cores temps are well below the designed limit of 100ºC.

Power settings on the laptop will also limit the CPU (and GPU) maximum frequencies.

Do you mean the cpu settings in advanced energy options? Those are set to 100%.

If you're messing around in that area, make sure that 'System cooling policy' is set to 'Active' as well.

Perhaps it is to warm to run in Burst mode? Your cores temps are well below the designed limit of 100ºC.

Power settings on the laptop will also limit the CPU (and GPU) maximum frequencies.

Do you mean the cpu settings in advanced energy options? Those are set to 100%.

If you're messing around in that area, make sure that 'System cooling policy' is set to 'Active' as well.

I did that, but thx for reminding.

I just installed the optimized Intel GPU apps from Mikes site and now things really start to get hot. Cores are at 86 degrees now, not sure if I should keep running it like that. Maybe just CPU for now and GPU when it gets cooler again. It's just too damn hot here atm, this weekend it shall be around 35 degrees here where I live.


*edit* 88 degrees after running for just 12 minutes. I suspend GPU now.

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I removed the fan on my system and let it run full out to see if it would switch down form Burst. I tried to cook it but after a while the temps just kind of leveled off with the CPU staying in Burst mode the whole time. The room is about 2-3º warmer than when I took the other temps screenshot.

I didn't quite get up to your temps, but it looks like you may be near the hairy edge of getting it to go into Burst mode.
Unless the manufacture disabled Burst. When you have the system running without running BOINC the temps should be cool enough to see the lock go up if it is going to.

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Frankie I live in ozz mate and it get hot here in summer if it's 35c air temp then yes suspend the GPU when the air temp is that hot it's hard to cool anything down let alone a computer I reduce the amount of work I do on my machine when the temp is that hot or I just stop till it cools down at night I think you may find the manufacturer will probably say that the safe operating temp is usually something like about no more than 35-40 max so you are getting close to max temp to have it turned on

Most electric equipment does not like temp in the 35+ range . Try opening all your doors and windows and try to get a breeze to help keep your place a bit cooler unless it's hot air blowing and I would not use a evaporative air con they create to much humidity and you will run a risk on condensate on the components and sizzle spark bang new puter needed

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I would not use a evaporative air con they create to much humidity and you will run a risk on condensate on the components

Evaporative coolers result in much lower levels of Relative Humidity than just living in a tropical environment.
Condensation will only occur on very cool surfaces. Even when not running, that won't be an issue for a computer.

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Grant
Darwin NT

Yes grant your right but if for any reason he turns it off while having that type of air on that's when he may find condensate on the components and bang once he hits the power button.

I've had that type and had condensate on the walls after a few hours and so I have never bought 1 again peels wallpaper of the walls or bubbles I just think there crap air cons

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Yes grant your right but if for any reason he turns it off while having that type of air on that's when he may find condensate on the components and bang once he hits the power button.

No he won't.
The unit would have to be cooled do to (or below) the dew point. That won't happen without external help, such as putting it in a fridge, then removing it. Not likely to happen.

And as for a bang, not with the voltages involved in a laptop. Condensation in the laptop would probably lead eventually to corrosion, in which case it will take some time to eventually die.

I've had that type and had condensate on the walls after a few hours and so I have never bought 1 again peels wallpaper of the walls or bubbles I just think there crap air cons

Even in a closed room I've no idea how you managed that. Evaporative coolers aren't supposed to be used in a closed environment anyway.

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Grant
Darwin NT

I removed the fan on my system and let it run full out to see if it would switch down form Burst. I tried to cook it but after a while the temps just kind of leveled off with the CPU staying in Burst mode the whole time. The room is about 2-3º warmer than when I took the other temps screenshot.

I didn't quite get up to your temps, but it looks like you may be near the hairy edge of getting it to go into Burst mode.
Unless the manufacture disabled Burst. When you have the system running without running BOINC the temps should be cool enough to see the lock go up if it is going to.

Hal, thx again for doing this test!

I think I found the "problem" last evening. Well, it's not a real problem, more like a malfunction or so. Pls check this screenshot:

http://i.imgur.com/pWIrakK.png

As you can see RealTemp shows a core speed of 2166.66 MHz while CPU-Z shows 2416.62 MHz. So my CPU is actually running in burst but it looks like RealTemp just can't read the correct speed. I may check with a third program but I'm pretty sure that CPU-Z is showing the correct values.

Conclusion: Never trust a single program ;-)

Frankie I live in ozz mate and it get hot here in summer if it's 35c air temp then yes suspend the GPU when the air temp is that hot it's hard to cool anything down let alone a computer I reduce the amount of work I do on my machine when the temp is that hot or I just stop till it cools down at night I think you may find the manufacturer will probably say that the safe operating temp is usually something like about no more than 35-40 max so you are getting close to max temp to have it turned on

Most electric equipment does not like temp in the 35+ range . Try opening all your doors and windows and try to get a breeze to help keep your place a bit cooler unless it's hot air blowing and I would not use a evaporative air con they create to much humidity and you will run a risk on condensate on the components and sizzle spark bang new puter needed

You are absolutly right Glenn! I won't run the GPU anymore while it is that hot here. Without GPU I get a max core temp of 76 degrees which is ok I guess. But 88 after running the GPU for just 12 minutes seems just too much. I'm sure it would hit 90+ degrees after running a bit longer. And it's just a slow, intergrated Intel GPU, so it's absolutly not worth taking a risk here. It's just a cheap €299 laptop but still I want it to run for some time.

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Even in a closed room I've no idea how you managed that. Evaporative coolers aren't supposed to be used in a closed environment anyway

don't understand that it wasn't a closed room . I did have the windows closed in the unit . And if your saying you leave the windows open or dorrs doesn't that sort of defeat the perpose of having air-con and I have no idea why there was water running down the walls from condensate just that is what happened and I will not use them again . Could have been a very humid day anyway can't remember I just think they are crap and I now only use split refrigerated systems

And yes I know it won't go bang or explode it was a figure of speech mate

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don't understand that it wasn't a closed room . I did have the windows closed in the unit . And if your saying you leave the windows open or dorrs doesn't that sort of defeat the perpose of having air-con

When using a portable evaporative cooler, the unit should be placed to draw air in from outside, and there should be an open door or window to allow the cooler air to go outside. Running it in a closed room makes the cooling effect pretty much non-existent & causes the air to become saturated.
Airconditioning units require the area to be enclosed to be effective.

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Grant
Darwin NT

don't understand that it wasn't a closed room . I did have the windows closed in the unit . And if your saying you leave the windows open or dorrs doesn't that sort of defeat the perpose of having air-con

When using a portable evaporative cooler, the unit should be placed to draw air in from outside, and there should be an open door or window to allow the cooler air to go outside. Running it in a closed room makes the cooling effect pretty much non-existent & causes the air to become saturated.
Airconditioning units require the area to be enclosed to be effective.

Correct, you need fresh dry air coming in to make them work. Otherwise you just raise the humidity in the room to ~100%, and they stop working. Then as things cool down, that water has got to condense some place.

They work best in a dry low humidity climate. They are pretty much useless here because the humidity might be around 80% already...

Ian

Thanks guys I didn't know that you had to have fresh air coming in and a window to let some air out ..

So I was right there crap get's very humid on the south cost stuck between the mountains and the ocean

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I removed the fan on my system and let it run full out to see if it would switch down form Burst. I tried to cook it but after a while the temps just kind of leveled off with the CPU staying in Burst mode the whole time. The room is about 2-3º warmer than when I took the other temps screenshot.

I didn't quite get up to your temps, but it looks like you may be near the hairy edge of getting it to go into Burst mode.
Unless the manufacture disabled Burst. When you have the system running without running BOINC the temps should be cool enough to see the lock go up if it is going to.

Hal, thx again for doing this test!

I think I found the "problem" last evening. Well, it's not a real problem, more like a malfunction or so. Pls check this screenshot:

http://i.imgur.com/pWIrakK.png

As you can see RealTemp shows a core speed of 2166.66 MHz while CPU-Z shows 2416.62 MHz. So my CPU is actually running in burst but it looks like RealTemp just can't read the correct speed. I may check with a third program but I'm pretty sure that CPU-Z is showing the correct values.

Conclusion: Never trust a single program ;-)

You are absolutly right Glenn! I won't run the GPU anymore while it is that hot here. Without GPU I get a max core temp of 76 degrees which is ok I guess. But 88 after running the GPU for just 12 minutes seems just too much. I'm sure it would hit 90+ degrees after running a bit longer. And it's just a slow, intergrated Intel GPU, so it's absolutly not worth taking a risk here. It's just a cheap €299 laptop but still I want it to run for some time.

I have seen other apps that did not correctly read speeds when the CPU was above the normal maximum speed. Such as Turbo Boost or in this case Burst. They are probably just looking at the "max clock rate" value and saying "OK we are at 100% so that means we are at this clock speed".
I tend to use several different apps for things. As I mentioned before the HWiNFO didn't agree on the core temps, but 2 other apps did. I tend to have more trust in that apps from cpuid these days, but they still can get things wrong now and then. Like after running for several days & telling me the max GPU temp was 250ºC or that I had a fan speed of 65,000 RPM (even though there is no fan on that connection).

The Bay Trail chips have a maximum core temp of 105°C, but that doesn't mean they will be happy running at 104°C. I prefer to only run up to about 10ºC shy of the maximum temperature that Intel states. I imagine the built in throttling mechanisms should kick in before temps get to near the maximum values. It is better to be safe than sorry with something you want to last a long time though.

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Another small update here: The machine is running without any problems so far, at least on CPU.

Last week we had a rainy day here where temperatures were abut 10 degrees (celsius) lower then the days before so I thought I give the GPU another try. But it took again less then 15 minutes until core temps hit 90 degrees and I had to suspend the GPU again. I wonder how such a small GPU can produce that much heat?!?

THE CPU itself, although running in burst all the time, seems to be a bit slower then suspected. When I compare times and GFLOP-ratings with Hals Bay Trail machine, his seems to run a bit faster. But thats ok, for a machine that sucks just ~16 watts the performance is still nice.

The Bay Trail chips have a maximum core temp of 105°C, but that doesn't mean they will be happy running at 104°C. I prefer to only run up to about 10ºC shy of the maximum temperature that Intel states. I imagine the built in throttling mechanisms should kick in before temps get to near the maximum values. It is better to be safe than sorry with something you want to last a long time though.

You really think that running the CPU at 95 degrees 24/7 would be ok?

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Another small update here: The machine is running without any problems so far, at least on CPU.

Last week we had a rainy day here where temperatures were abut 10 degrees (celsius) lower then the days before so I thought I give the GPU another try. But it took again less then 15 minutes until core temps hit 90 degrees and I had to suspend the GPU again. I wonder how such a small GPU can produce that much heat?!?

THE CPU itself, although running in burst all the time, seems to be a bit slower then suspected. When I compare times and GFLOP-ratings with Hals Bay Trail machine, his seems to run a bit faster. But thats ok, for a machine that sucks just ~16 watts the performance is still nice.

The Bay Trail chips have a maximum core temp of 105°C, but that doesn't mean they will be happy running at 104°C. I prefer to only run up to about 10ºC shy of the maximum temperature that Intel states. I imagine the built in throttling mechanisms should kick in before temps get to near the maximum values. It is better to be safe than sorry with something you want to last a long time though.

You really think that running the CPU at 95 degrees 24/7 would be ok?

I think I should better qualify what I said.
If that high of core temperature is not effecting any other components of the system. In such a way as to make them exceed their thermal design. I would let my system run to a core temperature within 10ºC of what Intel specifies.
If the heat caused by the CPU is causing issues then it is obviously not OK for the system as a whole.
Having said that. I have an old Pentium M notebook I have been trying to kill. It might be better to say I am trying to burn it out rather than maliciously kill it. I have it's little 1.5GHz chip overclocked to ~2.4GHz and running AP non-stop. During the day its core has only been getting up to 85ºC. As it has not yet been that hot this summer.

On paper I would think that your Bay Trail system would come out ahead.
- Maybe it is not constantly staying at the Burst frequency?
- Maybe it is that I have 2 dimms in my system. In order to take advantage of the dual channel abilities of the CPU. Memory bandwidth of Bay Trail is 10.6GB/s for single channel & 21.3GB/s for dual channel. When I was selecting a MB for Bay Trail I made sure to get one that had 2 dimm slots. There were many I found that only had 1 slot.

At the moment I only have 1 CPU MB tasks to look at in my results. It is a VLAR that ran 4.5 hours. Where your normal AR tasks look like they are running about 6 hours. Most of your recent CPU MB tasks have been VHAR, or shorties. I think that might lower the "Average processing rate" GFLOP rating of an app, but I'm not 100% sure on that one. However, AP processing rates are much closer than MB.

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