Where is everyone?

beep

No idea Celt, maybe their out buying fireworks.

---

The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

Going to bed with the kitties soon...
Was out in the yard all day trimming trees.

---

"Freedom is just Chaos, with better lighting." Alan Dean Foster

I spent most of the day on the road helping LSM.
beep

I spent most of the day on the road helping LSM.
beep

Glad you're doing well....

---

After a hot day we are in for
some big thunder bumpers.
Beep

First thing, I went to the hardware store for a fuse, but the smallest they had was 20 amps, so I didn't buy it. But I checked the info sticker on the AC unit and it says maximum fuse 20 amps, so I guess I'll go back and buy it... tomorrow, probably.

Er, riiiight, Okaaay ... the saga continues then :-)))

I think it said normal operating current is 13.7, so with startup surges 15 is probably too small. It blows one about once a year.

Ping!

You probably want a time delay or slow blow type. The starting surges on compressors can be rather high. The 15a fuse would be so close to the normal running current that it would explain it blowing once in a while without a real problem with the compressor.

You also may want to check the gauge of the wiring...
The norm would be at least 14ga for a 15 amp circuit and 12ga for a 20 amp circuit.

I'd also replace the fuse on the other leg of the circuit. Otherwise it would be the next to pop.

These have been time delay types, and it's been the same one blowing each time. The one that's good is much older than the one that's blown. I'm guessing the fan is 110 and runs on that leg.

Checking the wire gauge might not be a bad idea. My father installed that circuit himself, back when we had the first air conditioner installed ca. 1980. It's not a very long run, maybe four or five feet, and local code insists that it be in conduit.

If I could afford it, I'd replace the whole fusebox with a modern breaker panel and a transfer switch for a generator, but the electrician would probably say I have to rewire the whole house with all grounded outlets and fixtures. Some of the outlets that have grounds, I can't swear are legitimate grounds because I've never looked at them myself. I'd like to do the rewire too, but I can't afford it, and some of the outlets aren't even accessible behind furniture.

---

David
Sitting on my butt while others boldly go,
Waiting for a message from a small furry creature from Alpha Centauri.

Yes, I'll take Brazil.

I must admit that I saw the game yesterday.
Beep

Game, what game?

Yes, I'll take Brazil.

I must admit that I saw the game yesterday.
Beep

Game, what game?

That's what I was wondering.

Ping!

---

David
Sitting on my butt while others boldly go,
Waiting for a message from a small furry creature from Alpha Centauri.

Yes, I'll take Brazil.

I must admit that I saw the game yesterday.
Beep

Game, what game?

That's what I was wondering.

Ping!

---

The T1 Trust, PRR T1 Class 4-4-4-4 #5550, 1 of America's First HST's

First thing, I went to the hardware store for a fuse, but the smallest they had was 20 amps, so I didn't buy it. But I checked the info sticker on the AC unit and it says maximum fuse 20 amps, so I guess I'll go back and buy it... tomorrow, probably.

Er, riiiight, Okaaay ... the saga continues then :-)))

I think it said normal operating current is 13.7, so with startup surges 15 is probably too small. It blows one about once a year.

Ping!

You probably want a time delay or slow blow type. The starting surges on compressors can be rather high. The 15a fuse would be so close to the normal running current that it would explain it blowing once in a while without a real problem with the compressor.

You also may want to check the gauge of the wiring...
The norm would be at least 14ga for a 15 amp circuit and 12ga for a 20 amp circuit.

I'd also replace the fuse on the other leg of the circuit. Otherwise it would be the next to pop.

These have been time delay types, and it's been the same one blowing each time. The one that's good is much older than the one that's blown. I'm guessing the fan is 110 and runs on that leg.

Checking the wire gauge might not be a bad idea. My father installed that circuit himself, back when we had the first air conditioner installed ca. 1980. It's not a very long run, maybe four or five feet, and local code insists that it be in conduit.

If I could afford it, I'd replace the whole fusebox with a modern breaker panel and a transfer switch for a generator, but the electrician would probably say I have to rewire the whole house with all grounded outlets and fixtures. Some of the outlets that have grounds, I can't swear are legitimate grounds because I've never looked at them myself. I'd like to do the rewire too, but I can't afford it, and some of the outlets aren't even accessible behind furniture.

Possible that the fan could run on only one leg of the circuit. And a time delay type will eventually give out if it's pushed to the limit just too many times.
If you find out the wiring is 12ga, you are good to go with no problems upgrading to 20a on either the problem side or both sides of the circuit. If you find out it's 14ga, it should not take too much to replace a 5 foot run by pulling new THHN conductors through that short conduit.

---

"Freedom is just Chaos, with better lighting." Alan Dean Foster

Good morning win before win in my team ;)

---

Good to hear the doctor's visit went well, Ian :)

Winning before work

---

rOZZ
Music
Pictures

Good morning win.

---

With each crime and every kindness we birth our future.

... but the electrician would probably say I have to rewire the whole house ...

Maybe not. I can't remember the US NEC (it's been 25 years since I last did wiring there, but at that time you could leave knob and tube in place if it was of sufficient gauge and passed the insulation tests). Current UK code (17th ed) has some grandfather clauses for existing wiring - partly since we changed a lot of rules for EU compatibility.

...some of the outlets aren't even accessible behind furniture...

Maybe put new ones more conveniently and disconnect the others without physical removal? And do the whole thing piecewise to spread the cost and aggravation? I upgraded my 1965 installation over about 15 years, recently culminating in a new board fitted by a licensed tech who was amazed at the good insulation test value (28 megohms) for such "old" wiring. That 1965 stuff was done on the same principle over the original 1938 (VIR in EMT) some of which is still physically there but all now disconnected.

---

Lunchtime win

---

rOZZ
Music
Pictures

Bon appétit Julie :)

---

Merci Tom :)

---

rOZZ
Music
Pictures

Off to work. Last day before a 5 day holiday for me.

Morrn' all....
Beep
beep.