Motherboard/processor fan mounting problem.


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Message 1366601 - Posted: 11 May 2013, 2:20:10 UTC - in response to Message 1366599.

Just a short note. The power supply in the purchase is apparently defective.

This is the reason for the on/off power cycling on the motherboard.

Also I am probably short of some two cables for the graphics cards which should be having a correct connector or connection type towards the motherboard.

I will check in with my vendor about both these two things.

More for you tomorrow.

Check the bag of modular cables for that power supply as they are the only "cable connectors" required, no cables connects your video cards to the motherboard.

Cheers.

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Message 1366968 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 1:13:09 UTC
Last modified: 12 May 2013, 1:32:30 UTC

Another day struggling with these things today.

I have tried pulling the ASUS Maximus V Formula, Socket-1155 motherboard today from the new box since the power supply which came in the package apparently was defective.

Rather I wanted to try with the ASUS Rampage III motherboard from the first machine instead, together with the 850 W power supply which was also being used there.

Instead of trying to mount the original small processor fan (or at least one other brand new one which is also the same small size), I have been able to learn that the processor fan which came with my most recent purchase also could fit onto Socket 1366-based motherboards. One small change was the position of the four long screws which mounts the backplate to the rear of the motherboard. They had to be adjusted for the 1366 socket. Also an option for the previous 775 socket is available on this backplate.

Sadly, after pulling the Intel Core i7 960 processor first and then re-inserting it, installing the Noctua processor fan on top of the processor and connecting the GTX 480 graphics card as well as one the used RAM modules, the light diod for CPU came up ligthing red. Also I remembered to connect the correct power cables back to the original installation as well.

But checking out, the black cable which is labeled TXM/HX/AXi in one end and PCI-E in the other end and should be attached to the graphics card from the power supply, is having a 2*4 plug connector on the TXM/HX/AXi connector end and one 2*3 plug connector plus one 1*1 plug connector (two holes horizontally above each other) on the PCI-E connector end which can not be pulled together or untightened/unfastened in that end of the cable. There are several such cables coming in the package.

In fact, the cable which is having this designation may be connected to the power supply in several positions there. I will still probably need to connect two power cable connectors for each graphics card since there are two such 2*3 connectors for each of the new graphics cards.

The strange thing is that two of the black cables which are included in the package instead are labeled TXM/HX/AXi in one end and CPU in the other end. This cable rather has a 2*4 plug connector in each end which can not be pulled and therefore probably has another purpose.

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Message 1366976 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 2:40:57 UTC - in response to Message 1366968.

Another day struggling with these things today.

I have tried pulling the ASUS Maximus V Formula, Socket-1155 motherboard today from the new box since the power supply which came in the package apparently was defective.

Rather I wanted to try with the ASUS Rampage III motherboard from the first machine instead, together with the 850 W power supply which was also being used there.

Instead of trying to mount the original small processor fan (or at least one other brand new one which is also the same small size), I have been able to learn that the processor fan which came with my most recent purchase also could fit onto Socket 1366-based motherboards. One small change was the position of the four long screws which mounts the backplate to the rear of the motherboard. They had to be adjusted for the 1366 socket. Also an option for the previous 775 socket is available on this backplate.

Sadly, after pulling the Intel Core i7 960 processor first and then re-inserting it, installing the Noctua processor fan on top of the processor and connecting the GTX 480 graphics card as well as one the used RAM modules, the light diode for CPU came up ligthing red. Also I remembered to connect the correct power cables back to the original installation as well.

But checking out, the black cable which is labeled TXM/HX/AXi in one end and PCI-E in the other end and should be attached to the graphics card from the power supply, is having a 2*4 plug connector on the TXM/HX/AXi connector end and one 2*3 plug connector plus one 1*1 plug connector (two holes horizontally above each other) on the PCI-E connector end which can not be pulled together or untightened/unfastened in that end of the cable. There are several such cables coming in the package.

In fact, the cable which is having this designation may be connected to the power supply in several positions there. I will still probably need to connect two power cable connectors for each graphics card since there are two such 2*3 connectors for each of the new graphics cards.

The strange thing is that two of the black cables which are included in the package instead are labeled TXM/HX/AXi in one end and CPU in the other end. This cable rather has a 2*4 plug connector in each end which can not be pulled and therefore probably has another purpose.

For pci-e slots there is a 6/8 pin connector for your video card, the motherboard has an 4/8 pin connector, both should be connected, don't try and force a cable where it's not meant to go, their not interchangeable.

The TXM/HX/AXi connector is the end that plugs into the psu, the end labeled cpu goes into the corresponding connector on the motherboard, connect it, the red led diode says your motherboard/cpu is not getting enough power.

I hope you had put fresh heatsink compound on the cpu before you tightened the noctua heatsink down on the cpu.
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Message 1367022 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 6:53:11 UTC

Some PSU make-up the 8pin for graphics card by using what you describe as the "3*2" plus "1*1". When put together correctly they form a 4*2, with the clip at the centre of one side, they can be a real fiddle to plug sometimes. A little care and they will plug in correctly.
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Message 1367094 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 12:35:08 UTC
Last modified: 12 May 2013, 12:36:45 UTC

Thanks for the replies!

Oh, for the mentioned 1*1 connector plug which adds to the 3*3 connector plug I really meant to say vertically above each other, not horizontally, but I guess you understand what I meant to say there.

Another thing when it comes to the cooling paste. This stuff really is not the same as glue or adhesive?

Another of those things which has made me confused and perhaps messed things a little up. In any instance, I am not too fond of using that cooling paste anyway.

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Message 1367106 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 13:08:30 UTC

Cooling paste is not an adhesive or glue, which are designed to stick things together.
Thermal paste is designed to move the heat from the hot CPU to the heat-sink, this is done by adding conductive materials to in inert "grease".
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Message 1367209 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 17:14:48 UTC - in response to Message 1367094.

Thanks for the replies!

Oh, for the mentioned 1*1 connector plug which adds to the 3*3 connector plug I really meant to say vertically above each other, not horizontally, but I guess you understand what I meant to say there.

Another thing when it comes to the cooling paste. This stuff really is not the same as glue or adhesive?

Another of those things which has made me confused and perhaps messed things a little up. In any instance, I am not too fond of using that cooling paste anyway.

Not too fond? Well if you like having an expensive brick instead of a PC, there would be no point in this thread giving more advice with a burned up cpu.

Best advice, use the heatsink compound and as Rob said it's not glue or adhesive. Paste implies glue.
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Message 1367252 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 19:12:37 UTC
Last modified: 12 May 2013, 19:15:12 UTC

Sorry to say this, but both of you are giving me answers I either do not comprehend completely or possibly read both ways around.

In my instance the fan come off again. It is really the processor that may hurt in all of this, but if I choose to put the fan back on again, I should probably add more cooling paste before doing so, right?

I possibly may be able to dry away the existing cooling paste, but I only have one tube and not the alcohol substance which was being mentioned.

Since this was not working, I will need to look away from the "elegant" solution and rather return back to something which at least may be working.

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Message 1367259 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 19:30:51 UTC
Last modified: 12 May 2013, 19:31:51 UTC

PCI-E connector this plugs into a video card, if the card has connectors on the card, some don't and is required where available, if there is 1 connector, fill it up, if there are 2, ditto.

Aux cpu/p4 connector, this goes into your motherboard and is required.

This is the 24 pin power connector and is required.


Now anymore questions?
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Message 1367262 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 19:41:51 UTC

Why are you taking the fan off all the time?

Vic's pictures show the connections we've been trying to describe. Just be aware that the cable colours may vary on the PCI-E connector, normally they will be yellow and black, but I have one PSU which has brown and black. At least the two cables on the two-pin part of this connector are normally both black, so it is "less easy" to get it on the wrong end....

Modern (desktop) CPUs do need the fan, and the heat sink underneath it to keep the CPU temperature under control. Running without will very rapidly cook the CPU and render it into an expensive lump of sand in a plastic box.
You need very, very little heat sink compound, an ordinary tube should last a very long time (I've just bought my second tube, having lost my first tube, and it had been used on at least a dozen CPU installations).

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Message 1367265 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 19:44:57 UTC
Last modified: 12 May 2013, 19:47:42 UTC

Cooling Paste -

All previous cooling paste must be removed from the cpu and heatsink

before remounting the heatsink/fan assm.

Put a small very small drop of cooling paste on the CPU or Heatsink Not both and spread it around with the edge of a credit card. The purpose of the paste is to fill in microscopic variations in the metal to metal contact area any more paste will defeat the transfer of heat. metal to metal is best, paste just increases the contact area. so use sparingly but completely.

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Message 1367276 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 19:56:37 UTC
Last modified: 12 May 2013, 19:59:40 UTC

The Asus Maximus V Formula motherboard, note the areas circled in RED.

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Message 1367283 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 20:04:34 UTC

The "drop" Tom is talking about is bout the size of a grain of rice (uncooked)
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Message 1367287 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 20:12:12 UTC - in response to Message 1367283.
Last modified: 12 May 2013, 20:16:31 UTC

The "drop" Tom is talking about is bout the size of a grain of rice (uncooked)

About like so maybe.

After the cpu heatsink(or water block for water cooling) is tightened down on to the cpu, the heatsink compound would spread out like so:

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Message 1367293 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 20:22:30 UTC

Youtube Search "cpu heatsink installation"

60,000+ results showing how to do it on
lots of different cpus and motherboards.

Just a hint.

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Message 1367301 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 20:29:57 UTC - in response to Message 1367293.

Youtube Search "cpu heatsink installation"

60,000+ results showing how to do it on
lots of different cpus and motherboards.

Just a hint.

Yes, there are, this one Here, even though the cpu is older still applies...
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Message 1367323 - Posted: 12 May 2013, 20:56:53 UTC

Yes, I was hoping bluestar might be able to understand
what he was being told with some show and tell involved.

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Message 1367361 - Posted: 13 May 2013, 1:45:44 UTC

Bluestar stop stuffing around with than heat sink put a stock intel155 heat sink on .
why ..to find out if you haven't damaged the CPU if it boots up and works you can always remove it and then try the fancy heat sink you have I suspect you have heat stressed the CPU after you let it go into the cyclic restart a few times so when it wasn't making contact with the CPU .

What do I mean heat stressed ....some components can be damaged in a way that will let it work at low temps like 35c then over that they shit themselves and stop working the chip is not damaged as shutch but can no longer take any heat above normal room temp so lets figure out if that is what has happened

Let's start at the beginning and find out if you have or haven't stuffed the chip
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Message 1367412 - Posted: 13 May 2013, 7:52:30 UTC - in response to Message 1367361.

Is Bluestar, Musicplayer under a different name ;)

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Message 1367481 - Posted: 13 May 2013, 14:27:34 UTC - in response to Message 1367412.

yes you've caught onto his multiple personali...accouts
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