Motherboard/processor fan mounting problem.


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Glenn savill
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Message 1365974 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 7:09:36 UTC - in response to Message 1365965.

On that particular m/b have you connected the 24 pin main power and ether 1, 4 pin power or 2 ,6 pin power cables .If you did this and the fan is not shorting out something on the back of the m/b and the chip is inserted correctly to the socket then I would say you may have a faulty power pack if it's in a cycle of start then shutting down as for the fan we will need to know what type of fan it is model name eg it's a Intel .
Did you get any post beeps did you have the ram inserted and does the m/b have on board graphics ?
if no on board graphic's then you will have to put some sort of graphic card in it even a old one
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Message 1365976 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 7:13:40 UTC

Also what exactly is the m/board a gene a extreme as there are a couple of different types of this board
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Glenn savill
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Message 1365978 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 7:24:54 UTC

From what I can see none of the m/b Genie or extreme have on board graphic or gpu's depending on what term you use so first you will need to put a gpu in the board before turning it on
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Message 1366009 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 10:47:51 UTC

Hi bluestar i'm looking at you spec's now so give me 5-10 to check a few things
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Message 1366012 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 11:08:36 UTC

Bluestar your m/b does have on board graphic so no prob there you say your using 1600 ram and only 1 stick of ram no prob there if you don't use dual channel .now you say there is a gap between the cpu and the heat sink !

This is a big problem all heat sinks should NOT have a gap ever .
Even if your fan takes time to spin up the heat sink will absorb heat until it spins up .
From a cold start it mite take a few minute to get hot enough to turn the fan on but if you have a gap it will only take 20 seconds or less to burn out with a Pentium 4 you had approx. 45 seconds newer chips can burn out extremely quickly .
You may have damaged the chip .

I will now look at your heat sink to see if there is a prob with it as it should have sat on the chip no gaps give me 5 and I see
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Message 1366015 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 11:30:17 UTC

Bluestar I've looked at the heat sink and i'm not liking it for your m/b to big as you m/b has big water cooled heat sink on one side and mite make it hard to mount.
I hope you did not mount it the YouTube way with fan facing up .
Did you use the SecuFirm2 mounting system ? the one with 4 legs and not the one in the picture at the web site with two legs ?

I am thinking that the reason it is shutting down is because it is over heating because the heat sink was not firmly touching the CPU

Can you explain more on how you actually mounted this heat sink and what was the problem , was it the water cooled heat sink on the m/b ? was it getting in the way ?
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Message 1366025 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 12:29:46 UTC

Bluestar after reading the manual I am thinking you got the wrong heat sink as it does say a Intel 1155 heat sink or a water cooled heat sink and i'm shore the water air cooled heat sink on the board must have water cooling kit attached as this could also be overheating causing it to go into a cyclic shut down restart

I've asked another user called VBobier to come over to this thread and help as he is building a machine with a Asus board that is simular to the one you are trying to get working and shed some light on your problem
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Message 1366032 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 13:23:59 UTC
Last modified: 9 May 2013, 13:26:11 UTC

Hi Bluestar, I agree with Glenn. It looks like there is very little clearance room on that mobo.

Noctua NH-D14

Asus Maximus V

I would try assembling them outside the pc case. Also, fit the cooler without the fans 1st. ensure the cpu is fitted correctly & that no gap is seen between cooler & cpu. Then fit fans.....

Also, as far as I'm aware, all mobo's have a four pin connector for mobo speaker alongside power/hd/reset connectors, so just get one & fit.

Edit: I would also try to see if cooler with fans will fit facing away from the ram sockets so that I could get all four sockets used (even though it looks like they may not, no harm in trying).
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Message 1366041 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 13:51:50 UTC
Last modified: 9 May 2013, 14:01:28 UTC

Ok Bluestar,

1st all cpus need heatsink compound between the cpu and the heatsink/waterblock, it helps heat flow from the cpu to the heatsink and hopefully you have not damaged the cpu any,

2nd make sure the cpu heatsink is securely attached tightly to the cpu with some heatsink compound as described earlier, a thin line of heatsink compound going across the cpu(not diagonally and in one pass of the heatsink compounds tube) will do, between the cpu and the heatsink, you don't want too much or too little,

3rd you need to hook up the following: a 4pin/8pin cable that is not marked pci-e that comes from the power supply(psu),

4th that 660 video card will need power from the power supply, for that you need to hookup one or two 6/8pin cables that come from the psu(one does this for all video cards that have power connectors, the amount of cables to be hooked up depends on the design of the card itself, if there is only 1 power connector, then only 1 cable is needed, if there are 2 power connectors there, then 2 cables are needed, some cards actually need 3 cables but that is rare),

5th make sure the fan power cable on the cpu is connected to the motherboard if it's a 3/4pin type fan or to the psu, if the fan has a molex connector(a power connector almost as wide as your thumb that has 4pins and larger than a 3/4pin cable, the 3/4ths in this case is not a fraction, I just mean the cable might have 4 pins max and is compatible with a 3pin fan connector on the motherboard, just watch how the cable hooks up, all cables are keyed so that they'll only connect one way, but fan cables aren't as well designed, so you have to make sure the part that looks sort of like a tongue goes between the notches on the cable),

6th make sure the video card is firmly seated in the slot and is level going across the slot,

7th make sure the video cable from the monitor is connected to one of the dvi ports on the card,

8th make sure the 24pin main power cable and the wall power cables are firmly attached to the motherboard(24pin) and to the wall and to the psu(wall power cable).

If you've done all the above, then the pc should start, if there is nothing wrong with the cpu that is, otherwise you'd need a replacement cpu.
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Message 1366045 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 13:59:42 UTC - in response to Message 1366041.

That's a good list Vic, but the most serious issue has to be dealt with first - that of installing the cooler to the mobo correctly.

Once that is done, then proceed to the next step.
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Message 1366047 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 14:03:16 UTC - in response to Message 1366045.
Last modified: 9 May 2013, 14:04:01 UTC

That's a good list Vic, but the most serious issue has to be dealt with first - that of installing the cooler to the mobo correctly.

Once that is done, then proceed to the next step.

Thanks and yes that is very important, I added an 8th point to that list.
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Message 1366067 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 15:04:25 UTC - in response to Message 1366047.

VBobier do you have to use water cooled kit with thou mobo's or is it ok to use them without like a option ?
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Message 1366070 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 15:30:31 UTC - in response to Message 1366067.

VBobier do you have to use water cooled kit with thou mobo's or is it ok to use them without like a option ?

On the ASUS Maximus V Formula, as an option, the block there is meant to be used one way or the other.
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Message 1366077 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 15:56:54 UTC - in response to Message 1366068.
Last modified: 9 May 2013, 16:00:15 UTC

To both Glen savill and VBobier.

First, thank you both for your input and replies. Please note that I have not read it all in details yet, however.

You're welcome.

My Extreme machine in fact has a Noctua fan or cooler installed as well, but for Socket 2011 (Noctua NH-D14 SE 2011). The fan is pointing upwards, because otherwise it would not only take away space for the memory cards - four on each side of the processor (CPU), eight in all - but would also make it impossible to put a graphics card in the topmost expansion slot as well.

Heat rises, so the fan shoving air upwards does not seem like a problem.

Whether or not this machine came with the same or similar backplate (I think it is called so) I do not in fact remember. I will have to unplug here and pull open the right side cover which now is in place in order to check this out. This is the main reason for the plastic cover on the right side which when opened or removed shows the bottom side of the motherboard where the processor is located.

The plastic cover/hatch is really cosmetic, My HAF-932 case has no cover.

When assembling this machine, I used the way I found out it most likely should be after also reading through the enclosed leaflet.

Sounds good.

The most recent purchase of the 1155 Socket based system introduced me to this backplate system. It is not that difficult to do at the right moment when you first know how to do it.

True.

The question is then - if the CPU has the label for the text pointing the usual reading way when the machine is up and standing (and you not have to read it from the rear or behind the machine, the text on the bottom of the backplate really (reading the Socket type names) really should be placed similarly.
Anyway, the CPU can only be inserted in two directions and because of a lack of symbols I checked the CPU pin connectors for this. In any case the text on the processor vanished below the cooling paste (one middle sized droplet at the middle).

Intel Cpus are keyed so that they'll fit in the socket one way and so the clamp will close correctly, you can safely ignore the text on the cpu, it's just there to id the cpu really.

There are four long, thin screws that you put up from the bottom (back side of the motherboard), four plastic holders and four star screws on the front side of the motherboard. Also two arced bars which are having screw holes marked A B C for the three different socket types (B for Socket 1155).

Sounds organized.

Or perhaps there is more like to two screw holes. Two of them (I do not remember whether it is A and B or B and C) are really one hole only. You put these screws on the motherboard (after installing the CPU first, of course), then attach the fan with feathered screws (quite long) which sits at the middle point of the arced bars.

As long as you follow the instructions that the heatsink maker provided, if any, then you'll know or should know what means what and where everything is supposed to do.

Also, whether or not you choose to install the fan pointing directly in front of you or rather straight up, these bars have to be installed in two different or separate angles (90 degrees) if doing so. In any case they should go in on opposite sides with the arcs going upwards in the middle and the pin for connecting the middle screws pointing upwards for this.

Having the fan on this tower cooler facing up is ok.

But when you happen to encounter an additional unexpected problem you start thinking how far back you should go at reversing the installation process before starting assembling the whole thing once again.


As mentioned earlier, I could very well could pull the processor again and only test with only the motherboard. If the light diode for the CPU lights up in red, it either means that I blew it or something else is not put together correctly (more likely based on earlier experiences I have had).

I wouldn't do that, as the motherboard will be expecting a cpu to be there.

If I should succeed at reassembling the CPU and cooler, I probably would encounter yet another problem when it comes to the graphics cards. I am able to find only one yellow cable for each card and each of the cards are having two 3*3 pin connectors. On the motherboard there are one 2*4 connector plus one 2*2 connector marked EATX12V_1 and EATX12V_2, respectively. These are located at the top rear left when the machine is up and standing. The main power connector is located at the middle, front in the same way.

What brand and size in wattage is your psu? You may have a psu that could be too old, generic psus are not good and are not worth the cost.

And perhaps I really should not tell, but I also have the Corsair H100 Hydro Series CPU Cooler lying somewhere around. Checking with the pages for my vendor, it says it Socket 775/1155/1156/1366/2011 compatible...

I'd use that H100 if your case can handle it, if you use this H100, get 2 Delta 120x120x25mm 113cfm 3400rpm fans(you won't regret it, they are a bit noisy, but you'll get used to that as their not hard on the ears), put the fans next to each other between the H100 radiator and the case, with the airflow pointed up(look for 2 small arrows on the side of the fans for the direction of airflow).

But is it easier to install? Probably not so.

If you use their screws? No, If you buy at least eight 6-32 5/16" long machine screws and eight or more self tapping case/fan screws you'll have more work initially, but installing the whole H100 and fans as one piece will be a bit easier, at least once you have 2 screws into the fans and this time diagonally, then apply the other 6 screws, it helps.
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Message 1366097 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 17:51:46 UTC

Vic's list is pretty well spot on. Only one thing to add - remove the old heatsink compound from the processor before you add new stuff, carefully wipe it off with a paper towel, then clean with an alcohol wipe.

As Vic says processors are keyed so can only go into the socket one way round, with the locking lever in the released position the processor should drop in quite easily, if not very gently give it a slight wiggle so it line up properly and drop into place. The last AMD I dropped in sat down with a very satisfying clunk when I gave it a gentle nudge with my thumb nail, and I would expect Intel's finest to do much the same.

Powering up a motherboard without a CPU in it is most definitely a "bad idea" and should be avoided.
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Message 1366157 - Posted: 9 May 2013, 22:13:44 UTC - in response to Message 1365974.

Ah, there is another possibility for the on-off cycling....quite a silly one which my partner managed, after they had also put on the front panel of a case. The reset switch/button had become jammed 'on' and that caused it to 'reset', ad infinitum. A few years before that, a friend had somehow managed to make the wrong connections to the reset switch connections on the m/b, bridging the '+' connection for the switch with a '-' connection for something else - it gave the same effect, which is what set me looking at things related to the reset switch.



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Message boards : Number crunching : Motherboard/processor fan mounting problem.

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