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Message 1276402 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 19:47:36 UTC - in response to Message 1276398.
Last modified: 27 Aug 2012, 19:48:28 UTC

Vic,
Be a little careful - your tube dimensions are a bit astray.
1/2in is 12.7mm
5/8in is 15.9mm
3/4in is 19.1mm
(well, rounded to 1 decimal place)
I'd hate to see you buying 1/2in fittings and finding they are "a bit loose" in a so called 1/2in tube which is actually 5/8in.

I'm not too sure that you need such a thick wall tube, at the sort of pressures these systems work at there is little advantage in that over a "normal" wall - you shouldn't be bending pipes too tightly, and where you need tight bends you can use external re-enforcement springs.

Those quick disconnects certainly look very useful, don't skimp on them, as others have said they can be of great use when doing maintenance.


Rob I did no such conversion, I said 1/2"ID, nothing else, so don't put words in My mouth ok??

Let's see: Kinking...
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Message 1276404 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 19:51:07 UTC

The coolant I use is Feser One.

It can be bought cheaper at different places, such as Frozen CPU.

Steve
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Message 1276405 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 19:51:35 UTC - in response to Message 1276395.
Last modified: 27 Aug 2012, 20:05:04 UTC


It's like this, but I'm looking at Black and not red, although red would do if black was out of stock...



...black is the new red!!!

I've emailed Aquatuning to find out which couplings are suitable for 1/2" tygon tubing (which is what Steve uses) and I'll let you know what their response is.

One thing that concerns me if you go for a PCI bulkhead fitting is: will you have the space to route the tube through it ...... I'm guessing that stuff is pretty stiff...... you may need quite some space to get a kink-free bend......

There's always right angle connectors like so(now that My browser is working again, FB is trying to push Timeline on Me and It's doing weird stuff to My browser I think)...

This connector might be too short to deal with this tubing...

Enzotech may work though(Performance PCs is where I found this at).

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Message 1276408 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 20:00:24 UTC - in response to Message 1276404.

The coolant I use is Feser One.

It can be bought cheaper at different places, such as Frozen CPU.

Steve

They are less expensive than Performance PCs, Frozen CPU also has this in Black too($7.95), PPC is out of stock($19.95)...


Performance PCs return policy is terrible, once Ya buy something that's it, it's Yours, but for some things I put up with that policy...
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Message 1276412 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 20:06:25 UTC - in response to Message 1276405.


It's like this, but I'm looking at Black and not red, although red would do if black was out of stock...



...black is the new red!!!

I've emailed Aquatuning to find out which couplings are suitable for 1/2" tygon tubing (which is what Steve uses) and I'll let you know what their response is.

One thing that concerns me if you go for a PCI bulkhead fitting is: will you have the space to route the tube through it ...... I'm guessing that stuff is pretty stiff...... you may need quite some space to get a kink-free bend......

There's always right angle connectors like so(now that My browser is working again, FB is trying to push Timeline on Me and It's doing weird stuff to My browser I think)...


This connector might be too short to deal with this tubing...

Enzotech may work though(Performance PCs is where I found this at).


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Message 1276414 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 20:13:15 UTC - in response to Message 1276402.



Rob I did no such conversion, I said 1/2"ID, nothing else, so don't put words in My mouth ok??

Let's see: Kinking...

Vic, all he was saying is the internal dimensions on the drawing you posted do not match.

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Message 1276415 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 20:13:41 UTC - in response to Message 1276408.

The coolant I use is Feser One.

It can be bought cheaper at different places, such as Frozen CPU.

Steve

They are less expensive than Performance PCs, Frozen CPU also has this in Black too($7.95), PPC is out of stock($19.95)...


Performance PCs return policy is terrible, once Ya buy something that's it, it's Yours, but for some things I put up with that policy...


I think the algae issue was more to do with people using distilled water as a coolant, and not adding an inhibitor. Asking for trouble really - a dark, warm environment.....

I think the essential thing is to choose a coolant that is known NOT to react (electrolytically) with your surfaces, has an algae inhibitor and for which you struggle to find someone who has had a problem. Let someone else do the testing for you..
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Message 1276419 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 20:20:18 UTC

Rob I did no such conversion, I said 1/2"ID, nothing else, so don't put words in My mouth ok??


Vic,I didn't suggest you did the conversion, but I would be very wary buying tube from someone who makes such a basic mistake.

1x tube diameter is generally adequate at low pressure if the clamps squeeze the whole tube diameter, and not just crush a bit of it, so the Enzotech ones, with a 15mm "landing zone" for a 12.7mm bore tube is on the right side. The clamps from Koolance look good as they appear to be well designed, and should be well up to the task.
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Message 1276426 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 20:35:35 UTC - in response to Message 1276405.

There's always right angle connectors


True - but apart from dimensional difficulties, you should try and minimise the use of right angled fittings. Your coolant will not flow through them smoothly - it will essentially slam up against a metal wall, and then through the sheer force of the pump, find its way through the direction change after loosing some velocity and creating some turbulence. Gentle curves are good - they will impede flow rates far less. Not so tidy perhaps, but the whole purpose of watercooling is efficient cooling. Looking good is secondary. You will need to remain flexible when it comes to the actual plumbing, as you will find that some tube routes that looked sensible in an empty case are in reality, impractical or just pure impossible. Sometimes, you will have no option, but if you can avoid right angles, it will be for the better.

Watercooling is fun - honest! I spent hours staring at my case imagining how it was going to work - and very little of my planning turned into reality (and that's with narrow, flexible tubing). you will probably find that despite your best efforts, you will not be able to quantify every twist and turn prior to the actual work, and will change plan several times during the build itslef. Part of the 'fun' of this sort of work is being creative.......
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Message 1276428 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 20:38:20 UTC - in response to Message 1276419.

Rob I did no such conversion, I said 1/2"ID, nothing else, so don't put words in My mouth ok??


Vic,I didn't suggest you did the conversion, but I would be very wary buying tube from someone who makes such a basic mistake.

1x tube diameter is generally adequate at low pressure if the clamps squeeze the whole tube diameter, and not just crush a bit of it, so the Enzotech ones, with a 15mm "landing zone" for a 12.7mm bore tube is on the right side. The clamps from Koolance look good as they appear to be well designed, and should be well up to the task.

Ok. Well all I see in 1/2"ID(that's how the tubing is labeled, even from Tygon) is 3/4"OD, unless I were to go clear and I don't want that...

Tygon R3400 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) UV Resistant Tubing- Black $3.59 per foot...
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Message 1276431 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 20:49:44 UTC - in response to Message 1276426.

There's always right angle connectors


True - but apart from dimensional difficulties, you should try and minimise the use of right angled fittings. Your coolant will not flow through them smoothly - it will essentially slam up against a metal wall, and then through the sheer force of the pump, find its way through the direction change after loosing some velocity and creating some turbulence. Gentle curves are good - they will impede flow rates far less. Not so tidy perhaps, but the whole purpose of watercooling is efficient cooling. Looking good is secondary. You will need to remain flexible when it comes to the actual plumbing, as you will find that some tube routes that looked sensible in an empty case are in reality, impractical or just pure impossible. Sometimes, you will have no option, but if you can avoid right angles, it will be for the better.

Watercooling is fun - honest! I spent hours staring at my case imagining how it was going to work - and very little of my planning turned into reality (and that's with narrow, flexible tubing). you will probably find that despite your best efforts, you will not be able to quantify every twist and turn prior to the actual work, and will change plan several times during the build itslef. Part of the 'fun' of this sort of work is being creative.......

Yes, I guess it is, to some, maybe I just don't see the fun...
How's this?

Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Triple Rotary 90 Degree 1/2" Barb Fitting $21.95 each...(from PPC only as far as I can tell, in the US at least).
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Message 1276434 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 20:54:58 UTC - in response to Message 1276415.
Last modified: 27 Aug 2012, 20:56:24 UTC

The coolant I use is Feser One.

It can be bought cheaper at different places, such as Frozen CPU.

Steve

They are less expensive than Performance PCs, Frozen CPU also has this in Black too($7.95), PPC is out of stock($19.95)...


Performance PCs return policy is terrible, once Ya buy something that's it, it's Yours, but for some things I put up with that policy...


I think the algae issue was more to do with people using distilled water as a coolant, and not adding an inhibitor. Asking for trouble really - a dark, warm environment.....

I think the essential thing is to choose a coolant that is known NOT to react (electrolytically) with your surfaces, has an algae inhibitor and for which you struggle to find someone who has had a problem. Let someone else do the testing for you..

any recommendations? Note: Silver Killcoil is out as EK blocks with Nickel plating prior to EN blocks(I don't have any EK EN blocks) degrade or erode from what I've read and I don't want that... EN is Enhanced Nickle, EK changed their process somehow.
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Message 1276438 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 21:17:40 UTC - in response to Message 1276434.

any recommendations? Note: Silver Killcoil is out as EK blocks with Nickel plating prior to EN blocks(I don't have any EK EN blocks) degrade or erode from what I've read and I don't want that... EN is Enhanced Nickle, EK changed their process somehow.


Let me get back to you on that. I would need to re-read your parts list and do some Googling. Next week is a busy week work-wise and I need my beauty sleep for it so I'm off to bed for tonight. I'll have a look over the next couple of days and see if I can come up with a list of stuff to avoid, and stuff that I would be happy to use.

I do however know that EK changed their plating process because some coolants were reacting with the finished surface and stripping off the plating. This is one reason why using pure copper waterblocks is never a bad thing (ask yourself why plumbers still like copper) ;-)

It will be worth it all in the end - honest!
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Message 1276444 - Posted: 27 Aug 2012, 21:32:49 UTC - in response to Message 1276438.

any recommendations? Note: Silver Killcoil is out as EK blocks with Nickel plating prior to EN blocks(I don't have any EK EN blocks) degrade or erode from what I've read and I don't want that... EN is Enhanced Nickle, EK changed their process somehow.


Let me get back to you on that. I would need to re-read your parts list and do some Googling. Next week is a busy week work-wise and I need my beauty sleep for it so I'm off to bed for tonight. I'll have a look over the next couple of days and see if I can come up with a list of stuff to avoid, and stuff that I would be happy to use.

I do however know that EK changed their plating process because some coolants were reacting with the finished surface and stripping off the plating. This is one reason why using pure copper waterblocks is never a bad thing (ask yourself why plumbers still like copper) ;-)

It will be worth it all in the end - honest!

Turns out 2 of My blocks are the newer EN, the other 590 and the motherboard and cpu are plain nickel...
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Message 1276536 - Posted: 28 Aug 2012, 4:09:14 UTC - in response to Message 1276412.
Last modified: 28 Aug 2012, 5:03:29 UTC


Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Triple Rotary 90 Degree 1/2" Barb Fitting($21.95)
This is from PPC only as far as I can tell, in the US at least.


Enzotech may work though(Performance PCs is where I found this at).

Enzotech BRCPS-G1/4-12 90 Degree Rotary Fitting G 1/4 Thread - Matte Black($7.50)

I'm going to buy one of the right angle Enzotech parts and one of the Bitspower rotary parts, I'm concerned that one or both of the parts may not fit between two water block equipped 590 video cards, both of these parts look like their over 1" in height, the Enzotech part is just 1mm over 1" in height when mounted on a block, I'll be lucky if it were to fit and Me without two extra GTX590 cards(02/01/2013 & 08/01/2013, that's the best I can do too), crap...

Then there's this one a Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary Angle IG1/4" Extender($16.95), it doesn't have a barb connector, but I have plenty of those...


For all 3 fittings that's $46.40 before shipping.


I made this up as two parallel loops, with 2 Bitspower Premium 1" Version Black Matte D-Plug Sets($8.50) between each pair of cards, maybe, 4 total of course.

If the above doesn't fit maybe this Bitspower Premium Mini Black Sparkle D-Plug Set might($6.95), I've no idea exactly what size this is in height, but it's less than 1".

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Message 1276540 - Posted: 28 Aug 2012, 5:21:22 UTC

Your coolant will not flow through them smoothly - it will essentially slam up against a metal wall, and then through the sheer force of the pump, find its way through the direction change after loosing some velocity and creating some turbulence


Area51, I just love your description of the passage of a fluid round a sharp right angle bend - having seen the damage that was done to the inside of a "small" (250mm bore) ultra-high pressure steam pipe bend I can say it is pretty accurate!

Wherever possible nice gentle curves are the best as you keep the flow non-turbulent.

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Message 1276555 - Posted: 28 Aug 2012, 6:02:12 UTC - in response to Message 1276540.
Last modified: 28 Aug 2012, 6:04:16 UTC

Your coolant will not flow through them smoothly - it will essentially slam up against a metal wall, and then through the sheer force of the pump, find its way through the direction change after loosing some velocity and creating some turbulence


Area51, I just love your description of the passage of a fluid round a sharp right angle bend - having seen the damage that was done to the inside of a "small" (250mm bore) ultra-high pressure steam pipe bend I can say it is pretty accurate!

Wherever possible nice gentle curves are the best as you keep the flow non-turbulent.

Well I must say others Here([H]ardOCP) don't seem to think it makes any difference, besides it may be that nothing much over 1" will fit between 2 cards, One part is 26mm in height or 1.02362", that isn't a lot of room, since We're talking about 4 cards in 2 loops, so I'm thinking the triple rotary won't fit at all, I was planning on buying some to unite the motherboard block and the cpu where a pair should fit. Like Flexion below says about the 90 degree fittings.

Flexion Hard Gawd 8.1 Years wrote:
I have the bitspower rotating 90 degree compression fittings in my rig. There are 5 of them. I don't have any data comparing the difference with and without, but I can say it doesn't decrease my performance drastically.


I used the 90 degree fittings to keep my loop neat looking. If I remove the radiator screws and the four cpu block screws the whole loop can be removed for maintainence.

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Message 1276783 - Posted: 28 Aug 2012, 21:20:49 UTC

Not quite:

I don't have any data comparing the difference with and without, but I can say it doesn't decrease my performance drastically.


The point I was making is that you should try and avoid introducing extra bottlenecks to colant flow. If you need them to achieve your goals, fine, but if you can think of a way of avoiding their use so much the better.

Regarding the QR couplings for 1/2" Tygon tubing, Aquatuning recommended this fitting:

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p5788_Phobya-quick-release-co

You would need to add 2 of your fave' tube attachments to each coupling, since the QR couplings terminate in a female G 1/4" thread.

Coolant is looking, err interesting. Still reading, but there appear to be a small number of recurring good stories which should result in a short list of sensible alternatives. Get back to you over the next few days on that though.
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Message 1276797 - Posted: 28 Aug 2012, 21:58:45 UTC - in response to Message 1276783.

Not quite:

I don't have any data comparing the difference with and without, but I can say it doesn't decrease my performance drastically.


The point I was making is that you should try and avoid introducing extra bottlenecks to colant flow. If you need them to achieve your goals, fine, but if you can think of a way of avoiding their use so much the better.

Regarding the QR couplings for 1/2" Tygon tubing, Aquatuning recommended this fitting:

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p5788_Phobya-quick-release-co

You would need to add 2 of your fave' tube attachments to each coupling, since the QR couplings terminate in a female G 1/4" thread.

Coolant is looking, err interesting. Still reading, but there appear to be a small number of recurring good stories which should result in a short list of sensible alternatives. Get back to you over the next few days on that though.

Cool, saved that link to amazon, I've bought from aquatuning.us before, their good...
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Message 1281175 - Posted: 7 Sep 2012, 21:05:39 UTC

Well UPS delivered My New 250GB Velociraptor hdd from WD that was exchanged for a defective 150GB Raptor hdd, this will go into the New PC...

A Sata 3 hdd @ 10,000rpn and yes it's registered to Me already...
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