New Octo GPU Cruncher build

One thing you may want to consider doing is incorporating quick release couplings into your loops. These can serve two functions. First, you have an easy drain point without the need to plumb in a floating tube. The other advantage is that if you plan them carefully, you can split your loops into logical sections so that you will seldom need to fully drain the loops (they also make initial filling a lot easier).

For example, each of my loops has 3 QR couplings, enabling me to isolate the pump/res area, radiator and GPU (I have two distinct loops, one for each GPU) on each loop. If I need to take out a GPU, I just disconnect its QR couplings and slide it out. No loop draining, no hassle. When I put it back in, I just ensure that the waterblock and its associated tubing leading to the QR couplings is full of coolant - no bubbles. I can also fully isolate the externally situated radiators - which makes life a lot easier if I do a full coolant change since I can jiggle the rad' box around to fully clear it of air.

I can provide pics if you would find them useful.
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Whether you have parallel flow or serial does not matter. My setup is done for reasons specific to me, but the principle of the QR couplings makes as much sense in a parallel flow setup as a serial. Its the ability to isolate specific segments of the loop (however many devices it incorporates) that is useful.
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Whether you have parallel flow or serial does not matter.

Whether you have parallel flow or serial does not matter.

As Rob pointed out earlier in the thread, it does.

Whether you have parallel flow or serial does not matter. My setup is done for reasons specific to me, but the principle of the QR couplings makes as much sense in a parallel flow setup as a serial. Its the ability to isolate specific segments of the loop (however many devices it incorporates) that is useful.

Where did you find the QR couplings?

Steve

Whether you have parallel flow or serial does not matter. My setup is done for reasons specific to me, but the principle of the QR couplings makes as much sense in a parallel flow setup as a serial. Its the ability to isolate specific segments of the loop (however many devices it incorporates) that is useful.

Where did you find the QR couplings?

Steve

Phobya. I can provide a link if you require.....

No problem. I found it. I like that idea, but couldn't find any that would work with 1/2" ID Tygon tubing.

Steve

Later when I get home, I'll see how large 1/2" tubing is in metric, as that is what the sizes are listed in at the PHOBYA website. Evenything I use is 1/2" inner diamater Tygon, with 1/8" thick walls. Since I am redoing everything at the moment, I really like the idea of quick connects. Even if I don't get them into this build, I will order them, and add them when time is available.

The Piggy rebuild is coming along very nicely. i have more to go before I can attempt a power up, but I am making progress.

Steve

Later when I get home, I'll see how large 1/2" tubing is in metric, as that is what the sizes are listed in at the PHOBYA website. Evenything I use is 1/2" inner diamater Tygon, with 1/8" thick walls. Since I am redoing everything at the moment, I really like the idea of quick connects. Even if I don't get them into this build, I will order them, and add them when time is available.

The Piggy rebuild is coming along very nicely. i have more to go before I can attempt a power up, but I am making progress.

Steve

Later when I get home, I'll see how large 1/2" tubing is in metric, as that is what the sizes are listed in at the PHOBYA website. Evenything I use is 1/2" inner diamater Tygon, with 1/8" thick walls. Since I am redoing everything at the moment, I really like the idea of quick connects. Even if I don't get them into this build, I will order them, and add them when time is available.

The Piggy rebuild is coming along very nicely. i have more to go before I can attempt a power up, but I am making progress.

Steve

I was thinking of using Koolance Quick Disconnects and Corsair Dreamflex tubing, their black 1/2"ID kit, nice and thick walls and short of fittings has all one needs and 10' of tubing too.

Later when I get home, I'll see how large 1/2" tubing is in metric, as that is what the sizes are listed in at the PHOBYA website. Evenything I use is 1/2" inner diamater Tygon, with 1/8" thick walls. Since I am redoing everything at the moment, I really like the idea of quick connects. Even if I don't get them into this build, I will order them, and add them when time is available.

The Piggy rebuild is coming along very nicely. i have more to go before I can attempt a power up, but I am making progress.

Steve

I was thinking of using Koolance Quick Disconnects and Danger Den Dreamflex tubing, their black 1/2"ID kit, nice and thick walls and short of fittings has all one needs and 10' of tubing too.

The principle is the same. That's essentially a bulkhead fitting - great for the case, Don't like barbs myslef, but that's a personal preference. You may want to see if you can get an inline fitting - then, you could plumb them into the single tube sections of the in/out tubes for the GPU loops (more isolatable segments in the loop = more options for unplanned issues). If you go for parallel for the chipset/CPU (which IS the way in terms of flow control), it may be a bit more difficult to figure out where they could go and be of use - they would need to be in the loop where there is a single tube....

The whole principle of incorporating them is to give an easy way of breaking the loop, without introducing air, and/or draining the whole loop (which will be a pain) - so you need to think about how your tubing is going to work and how you are going to carry out any maintenance tasks, and if being able to isolate sections will make your life easier. For me, they are a god-send. I only water cool my GPUs, but I would not build another GPU loop without them.

It's like this, but I'm looking at Black and not red, although red would do if black was out of stock...

That's the same tubing I use, except mine is clear. The coolant is blue though.

Steve

That's the same tubing I use, except mine is clear. The coolant is blue though.

Steve

I'd like to prevent algae from forming without using a silver kill coil as some blocks plating react to that in an undesirable way from what I've read elsewhere...